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please help.... again

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SBNova

New Member
Joined
May 17, 2004
Messages
50
Im using a 2004r in my 71 Nova. Its a fairly stout musclecar, but driven almost daily until recently. I built the 2004r myself years ago using a TCI kit and a TCI 3200-3800 stall 10" LU converter. The trans worked flawlessly until around 20k miles (guessing here, I dont remember anymore) when I hot lapped it at the dragstrip with slicks and toasted the second gear band- a narrow kevlar. I was using the stock pickup and pan. I continued to drive it semi-regularly for a few more months, then one day I was driving home from work and the car lost all movement.

After three disassemblies and much debate, I sent the converter back to TCI and they said I broke the turbine. While the trans was apart the first time, I put in new third clutches and steels. The last time, I bought the CK book and went through the trans while waiting to hear about the converter status, thinking that I may be overlooking something that the ATSG manual doesnt cover for a performance utilized tranny. I changed a few things per the manual, but I really dont recall exactly what right now. All clearances were then set per the CK book. When the trans went back in I also added a PTS Extreme billet servo for the new wide band, riding on a new drum. I had a few problems in the first 30-40 miles, blowing out the front seal twice. I tore it all apart again, and replaced the third clutches because the supplier sent me some generic red third clutches, so I got the better ones with new steels again. I did this because third wasnt hitting good at all. I also messed with the servo apply pin and springs, which made it better but still a lazy 2-3 shift. I was determined to just live with it because I was tired of pulling the trans- I think I had it out seven times in three months.

Now fast forward to my new problem;

I had been driving the car occasionally, but when the car shifted into third I could now hear a high pitched whine type sound. Kinda like the pump trying to prime only it was full of fluid- I checked it carefully numerous times. So the car gets parked again. I got tired of seeing it sit, so I drove it again only it seemed worse. I could faintly hear the whine sound in almost all gears, and now it seemed to slip so it went right back into the shop and up on stands.

I checked the pump pressures, and in park it was fairly normal from 90 min TV to 250+ maxTV. The gauge needle was bouncing fast, and I dont remember seeing that before. In most other gears, I didnt see much of any difference between min and maxTV, roughly 90psi, like it wasnt connected. I pulled the pan, then the filter and the converter clutch solenoid dropped out. The nuts had backed off and it was loose in the trans.

I checked the fluid schematics and it seems that the converter clutch solenoid only sees overflow fluid, so I dont think this is the cause of my lack of fluid pressure, but I'm no expert. On the other hand, I really dont want to take the tranny out and apart again if this could be the problem.

Should I reassemble it with the converter solenoid bolted back in and recheck the pressures, or would that just be a waste of time and fluids?

Any ideas??
 
I decide to try the pressures again with the solenoid in place since it only cost a few qts of fluid. I didnt think it would work, and it didnt. I guess the trans comes out tonight.

I checked the pressures before I shut it down, and in Park I get 90/270, 1st 90/90, 2nd 90/100, D 90/100 and R 90/100.

Does anyone have any places where I should start to look? My first instinct says pump, but would I be able to have normal pressures in Park if the pump was shot? I understand that it probably doesnt take much volume to pressurize the system in park, but Im just not sure.

It seems like the pressure is regulated, because of the fairly normal park pressures, would this mean that there's just a leak/seal thats blown?
 
Check the pump rotor to see if its a 13 vane. Reason I say is I pulled my front pump due, to a whining noise, and the rotor was worn. It was grinding on the shaft it surrounds making a high pitch wine. I could see the shiny wear markings. Bruce (@PTS) recommends to use a 10 vien due to the 13 viens being weaker. Something to consider if you pull it to inspect..

Also if I am not mistaken your R pressure should be much higher with min TV. Your P & N should be the about the same (50-75 psi) but manual D1 D2 and R should be 115-140 psi @ 1000rpm.

HTH
Mike Banas
 
Its got a 10 vane pump. The tranny should be out and apart this weekend for an autopsy.
 
Well, life got in the way and I didnt get the tranny out until last night.

Ive got the major assemblies removed from the case, and the pump torn apart. I found some damage in the pump from debris, and I suspect that its from the broken converter tubine. What I dont understand is how I still have debris when the trans has been torn apart roughly three times since the converter failure. I guess it just proves that you cant ever get things too clean.

In my pump, I found some scoring to the pump body and cover, right where the pump rings ride. One of my hardened rings is even gouged and scraped. The vanes are showing wear that I didnt notice previously. Ive got some pics that I will have up later today.

I am used to building engines, where low oil pressure is rarely the result of a faulty oil pump. I think I described my damage to be worse than it is, but could my low pressures be caused soley by some grooves in the pump? I was ready to see some blown seals or signs or fluid leaks somewhere, but so far I didnt see anything obvious like that.
 
Here are some pictures of the damage.
pumpcloseup2.jpg


Pumpcloseup.jpg


I know it looks bad, but is that kind of damage enough to kill my pressures?
 
I don't think that's enough damage to cause a severe press. loss. You stated 90/270 in P that would mean the pump is good I'd think but drops when you select any gear. Did you check N?
 
I wish I wouldve wrote them all down but I didnt. I guess I assumed it was just fubar and tearing it out was the only option. I too seem to think that it is able to pump due to my park pressures, but maybe it just couldnt provide the volume needed to pressurize clutch packs at a good pressure. I believe in nuetral the pressure was still very poor, like 90/100-120. The needle seemed to bounce alot too. I think reverse was 90/90.

After examining the pump body today I noticed that the majority of the wear is with the rotor in the position of the slide compressing the slide spring. Maybe there is a blockage forcing all the pressure to be blown off?? I did have the front seal blow out twice (I think, maybe three times since the converter failure).

Any more tips?? Anyone??
 
Im not sure if its ever been replaced but it seems fine to me. Maybe I'll try to measure its tension and post the results. I origianlly built this trans with a TCI kit plus a few other decent quality parts (I first built it in 1999). I dont remember if TCI provided a different slide spring or not.

I'll try to get a better picture showing the position of the wear in the pump body. It looks as though it spent alot of run time with the slide spring compressed.
 
I tore some of the tranny apart today. I pressure checked a bunch of sub-assemblies and found a leak in the forward clutch. The inner lip seal was ruined. It was split and blown out, probably about a 1/2 long tear. I dont know if I did it during assembly or not, because when I built it I checked everything per the CK manual.

Earlier I had the front seal blow out two or three times, does anyone think that maybe some high pressures (from some other cause) made the seal blow out or did I just screw it up?

Either way, this blown seal could'e caused my low pressures in most gears, but I had low pressure in reverse too- and the forward clutch isnt engaged while in reverse so I guess I'll keep poking around.

Any more ideas anyone??
 
The low/reverse pressure tested OK but I havent taken it apart yet to confirm.
 
Its all back together and working. I bought a new pump (10 vane- still wasnt sure if I wanted to try the 13), andwent through the rest. All the clearances were fine, and the clutches and band were still practically new.

On the first drive, I thought it wouldnt shift out of first. I was pissed and parked it for a day or two. I yanked the pan and added some governor weight. My trans is from an Olds, so I had been progressively trimming the weights through the years to raise the shift points. I guess I figured that now that I have great pump pressures that the weights were too small. So I added a little back on them. I put it back together and noticed that it wasnt shifting late, but it actually didnt have 2nd gear. It was taking forever because it was doing a 1-3 shift. Now I was really pissed and parked the car again. I pressure checked the 2nd band and it worked fine- couldnt turn the shaft just like the CK manual says. I didnt know how it could messed up now. So today I took out the servo. It all looked fine. Lip seals were fine. Everything looked good. It even felt like it was engaging the band just fine. The only thing I did different on this rebuild was adding a shim to tighten up the band appy. Without this extra shim I was just over .125 throw of the cover. With this *new* shim I was at +/- .080. If anything I thought this would make second drag, maybe have second gear starts or something. It really did have first, and then third though. No second gear.

So I put it back together and it works fine. Second gear and all. Now, since I added that governor weight my shifts are lower. Too low really but I just cannot get myself to remove the pan again. Not for a while anyway. So this is the way its gonna stay untill the next filter change.

Looking back, this was a giant pain in the ass. Im just glad the car is 100% again.
 
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