power brake conversion

proregal

Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2007
well i have desided to $-it can the powermaster starting my conversion tues after work does anyone have any pointers Ive got every thing i need except the vacuum block and its in the mail. will this setup hold as good as the p/m on the line? I hope to geet 10-12 psi on the line what do you guyes think!!!
 
I think most will agree that vacuum will not hold as good as a properly "working" Power Master. However, the PM is not worth keeping up. I went to vacuum and then eventually went to hydroboost. I will never look back. The problem I had with vacuum is that after doing a burnout, the brakes got really hot. At best I could build 2-3 lbs and even then it was pushing me. At home I could build decent boost but the brakes were cold. Your luck may vary.
 
well i have desided to $-it can the powermaster starting my conversion tues after work does anyone have any pointers Ive got every thing i need except the vacuum block and its in the mail. will this setup hold as good as the p/m on the line? I hope to geet 10-12 psi on the line what do you guyes think!!!

Remove the powermaster system. This is accomplished by removing the 15mm nuts securing the PM to the firewall. They are located on each side of the brake pedal. There are four. Two on each side. Remove these, using a long extension, deep 15mm socket and ratchet. Unfasten the brake lines from the MC and disconnect the booster rod from the brake pedal. Unplug the electrical connections from the PM and remove the PM.

Next job is to swap out the PM brake pedal. In order to do this, you need to drop the saddle that the pedal is attached to. The four studs that held in your powermaster are the main fasteners that holds the saddle in place. After removing the PM the mounting bracket, there is till one more bolt holding the saddle in place. Looking directly at the brake pedal shaft, the bolt is threaded vertically up at the top of brake pedal. Only the head is visible. You should remove the brake light switch and the other switch above it that rest against the brake pedal shaft to get them out of the way. Though they appear to be threaded in, they just pull out from the saddle. Take a long 3/8" extension with a 13mm socket. The bolt is about a half inch left of the pedal. Remove this bolt and the saddle will be free. You can remove the saddle completely. Make sure the new booster bolts align with the holes in the saddle. You may have to tap them with a hammer to align. This will make installing the booster against the firewall it in easier.

OK, now with the new brake pedal installed, you can install the booster. Make sure the pin is in the recess in the frontcenter of the booster. It can fall out. It just slides in loosely. Install the booster into the firewall and through the saddle and install the 15mm nuts securing the booster, inside the firewall.

Next, you need to bench bleed the MC. Place it in a vice just tight enough to hold it in place. You must run lines into the reservoir from the brake ports. Fill with clean brake fluid and then use a rod to push on the plunger of the MC. This will pump the air and old fluid into the reservoir. Keep pumping it until all air is removed, dump dirty fluid and add clean fluid and repeat until clean brake fluid is observed in the reservoir.

When this is done, you can attach the MC to the booster, reinstall the brake lines and you may be done. If there was no air in your brake lines before you attached the new MC, you will have a hard pedal. If there was air in your lines, your brake lite will probably be on, your brake pedal will be low and will pump up. This indicates air in your lines and you'll have to bleed all your wheels, working from the farthest wheel away, first, and so on. If you're by yourself, you can bleed each wheel cylinder by attaching loosening the bleeder ****, attach a hose to it, and submerge the other end in brake fluid. Pump your pedal gently at least 5 or 6 times. Close the bleeder **** and move to the next wheel. Keep the MC filled with clean fluid as you go from wheel to wheel.

If you don't have a TTA vacuum block, you'll have to get your vacuum from the PCV vacuum hose. Purchase a 3/8" vacuum Tee from any parts store. I get mine at NAPA. Basically, cut into the pcv hose a couple inches above the pcv valve and install the T in that line. Run a 3/8 fuel hose for vacuum. Run it to the check valve on the booster. This will provide adequate vacuum for your vacuum brake system.
 
No, I did not use a line lock. That would definately help. I did have the s10 cylinders and big shoes. I was never consistant with e-brake launches.
 
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