power master brake light coming on

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Ok, I am going for a new accumulator. Would you guys be concerned about installing a new unopened GM accumulator (P/N 18013994) as opposed to a new style one from Kirbans? I can get this one much cheaper but only if you think it is a good choice. Thanks for your help.

paul
You'll never know if it's good until you install it. It doesn't make sense to buy it unless it is guaranteed. Get the guarantee in writing even if it is in an email response from the seller. If you pay with paypal it will be guaranteed. I have an original ball that still has a very good charge,but I wouldn't call it the norm.
 
It can only be guranteed to work properly at the time it leaves the seller's hands. Whether it will still be good in a week or a year from now is anybody's guess. If you don't like the rules of "fix my powermaster" game then switch to a more reliable braking system.
 
What is much cheaper in $$? If it is a big chunk towards a new one, I'd get one from Kirban's. The ones they sell are the latest ones on the market, and they are new. I'm with Rick, some things have a shelf life whether they are used or not. If it's $50 maybe try it, if it's $100 do you really want to make the gamble? It could fail a few days later or last for 10 or more years. It's your decision in the end. Good luck man!
 
All good points in previous postings. We have several options as far as brake bowls go. Top end would be the new reproduction Cardone brake bowl that our company was instrumental in getting Cardone to have it reproducd about 5 years ago.

I also have several good tested orignal GM brake bowls and several good tested Cardone brake bowls. I know they are good....wil it solve your problem is the unknown factor. Based on what you posted it may could cure your problem.

As it was mentioned you need to flush your brake fluid if you do change out the brake bowl as the fluid should be basically clear rather than look like pepsi.

Also check your proportioning valve make sure its the brass one not the steel one that rusts....another upgrade we recommend is upgrade the front rubber brake hoses to your brake calipers with the stainless ones. all these upgrades will improve your stopping as well as lighten your wallet.

The problem you mentioned is exactly what I experienced in my car which sits alot brake ltie would flicker on at start up and then go out. I replaced the bowl one of of my used ones 2 years ago and its been fine since. The other upgrades I did then also.

denniskirban@yahoo.com

As far as other possible problems with your pm I am not an expert.....
 
What is the procedure for flushing out the brake fluid, is it a matter of opening up the bleeder screws and letting it gravity feed out and refilling / bleeding the brake lines?

Thanks Dennis. What is your warranty on the new ones and used ones? If they can go bad just from sitting how will I know if I get a good one?

paul
 
Dennis, forgot to ask. What is the significance of changing out the proportioning valve?

Also what is the P/N for the stainless steel line front brake lines?
 
What is the procedure for flushing out the brake fluid, is it a matter of opening up the bleeder screws and letting it gravity feed out and refilling / bleeding the brake lines?

If you start changing your fluid regularly at least once or twice a year all you need to do is suck out whats in the reservoir and avoid the hassles of bleeding. The key here is to change the fluid regularly. Never let it get dark. To make it easy to remember I just change it same time as the engine oil (twice a year minimum). Takes like 5 minutes.
 
What is the procedure for flushing out the brake fluid, is it a matter of opening up the bleeder screws and letting it gravity feed out and refilling / bleeding the brake lines?

Thanks Dennis. What is your warranty on the new ones and used ones? If they can go bad just from sitting how will I know if I get a good one?

paul
Release all the fluid in the accumulator by depressing the brake pedal ten times with the key off. Then remove all fluid from both reservoirs. Then refill both reservoirs with fluid and gravity bleed the brakes.
 
FWIW, my fluid was kept clean and the PM still failed due to a bad accumulator. The motor running with every press of the pedal caused it to burn up (I smelled it burning). So maybe the accumulator lasted a little longer with clean fluid, who knows. I was on my third PM at the time. I've been taking some long trips recently so I needed a more reliable system anyway. I didn't want the PM to fail 6 hours from home. So I went Hydroboost. I took the PM back to Autozone. Cardone fixed it under lifetime warranty and I sold it at a Buick show. At least I assume it was fixed as I never installed it again.
 
FWIW, my fluid was kept clean and the PM still failed due to a bad accumulator. The motor running with every press of the pedal caused it to burn up (I smelled it burning). So maybe the accumulator lasted a little longer with clean fluid, who knows. I was on my third PM at the time. I've been taking some long trips recently so I needed a more reliable system anyway. I didn't want the PM to fail 6 hours from home. So I went Hydroboost. I took the PM back to Autozone. Cardone fixed it under lifetime warranty and I sold it at a Buick show. At least I assume it was fixed as I never installed it again.
In my opinion,Cardone doesn't have the ability to rebuild a paper clip.
 
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