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I was thinking something like that. I was going to take another stab at it tonight but I will wait til I don't want to kick things anymore. Will report back in a couple days
So I've made my list and checked it twice. Hub goes in to crank nice and sits flat. Converter fits into pump nice. Bolted up trans. Installed converter bolts. Rotated a couple times tightening bolts. Tried again by rotating the converter so it is not the same pad on the same hole. Same issue as before. The TC uses a ring mount. When I bolt it up. One pad touched first. The second pad pulls. The flex plate in 0.015" and the thirdt pulls it in 0.040". Flex plate measures flat
With the engine running does the converter wobble? If not then you don't have a problem. It could be just the way you are taking your measurements.
i haven't fired it up. not thinking i want to until i figure this out. it is always the same pad that is not mating well. i am using feeler gauges and a vernier caliper. not thinking its ok to pull the flex plate into the mounting pad. it should be the other way around i would think.
That's why it's called a flex plate.
is this normal to not have all pads touching evenly and having to pull the flex plate up to the torque converter slightly?
Yes it is. All flex plates and converters are not perfectly flat. There are tolerances in all mechanical devices. You may be overthinking this. I would bolt it up and start the engine and see if there is any wobble in it. Make sure you have the converter pushed all the way up to the flex plate before you tighten the bolts. I have seen where guys have relied on the bolts pulling the converter up to the flex plate bending the flex plate too far back, tightening the bolt causing distortion in the plate and wobble in the converter. This has caused the flex plate to crack and actually wear the pilot hole in the crankshaft. I always put a little chassis grease in the pilot hole in the crankshaft for insurance.
Ok. I found a sweet spot of the right pad on the right spot of the flex plate to minimize and deflection of the plate. All good now. Fired it up and all ok.
No,it is not normal. All of the three pads should touch the flexplate or be an equal distance from the flexplate or,in your case,every inch of the ring should touch or be an equal distance from the flexplate before you tighten any of the bolts. With the bolts installed and not tightened do you have equal gaps at the three mounting points when you move the torque converter toward the flexplate.
i can take a look. i think i am flat on 2 and 0.020" on the third. i can install a 0.020" shim if need be. it rotates freely before bolting and i can squeeze the gap with a light pressure with one finger.
You can push the converter all the way into the pump and start the engine or have someone rotate the engine while you observe the ring gear on the flexplate to see if it runs true. The best place to observe this is where the flexplate passes through the nosecone of the starter. You want to know if the flexplate is the problem or the converter. If the flexplate runs true put your one shim in and see if the ring is bent.
yes only the torque converter
That is what I am checking out now . The run out after bolt up is 0.015" and unbolted 0.030. I can install a 0.015 shim on that one pad but i would think this is acceptable. It is the flex plate that is out not the converter. Bolted up it is almost perfect.
When looking at the flexplate as it passes through the nosecone,do you see the ring gear move forward and aft while the torque converter is separated from the flexplate?
I used a caliper to be more accurate and measured to the block in 3 places. And the run out of the plate is off 0.030 in one spot and when I bolt it up it is 0.015 in the opposite direction. Meaning if I install a 0.015 shim the runout will be 0.000. in talking about visually seeing runout it wound be very hard to see these numbers with your eyes so that is why I am using a calliper to get a measurement. I figure no shim is needed if the runout of that thin flexible plate is 0.015.
