Was getting ready to turn a corner and lost the power assist. The brakes came back before I got home. (No Brake light) Next day I leave the house and have no brake assist, but had to get to town so I took my time. After filling with gas, I drove a couple of blocks and they started working and have worked the rest of the day. What can cause the powermaster to work and then not work. I happened once last year when someone changed my wheels. Is it time to go vacuum?
Powermaster brakes, Work and then don't.
- Thread starter Mike70gtx
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I haven't gone vaccum yet...I'll probaly order the kit next week. It's basicaly the same set up they used on the TTA's...we got the same motor set up but not the same brake MC/booster. Anyhow, The only thing I've heard about going this route is finding a decent check valve but lucky they're only like 5.00 bux a pop. Once you get one that works, everything should be good to go for years. It's better than trusting a electronic controlled brake system in my opinion. You can pick up a decent used vaccum kit from Red ( check parts for sale ads) for 150.00 bux or 175.00 from Gbody.com. Also, Gbody.com sales a vaccum kit using new parts for 350.00 bux. As for the Chrome brake booster, I've never seen one on a car before so I couldn't tell you anything about them. I'm simply painting my booster Black.
The next option is a Hydro boost, I really like the Hydro boost idea but the kit is around 800.00 bux. Now GM did install these on a G body w/desiel engine. There is some people who has done this route for around 200.00 - 350.00 bux I believe using J/Y parts. This system is becoming more popular ever year. The 03/04 Cobras used Hydro boost brakes as well as some 3/4 ton trucks. It's got a really cool safty feature that gives you like 70% braking power during brake failure...It's like 3 pumps. It supposed to be more than a Vaccum system...either system seems to give you more than our current system does. I mean if you pop a brake fuse on our system, I think thats the end of your brakes
The next option is a Hydro boost, I really like the Hydro boost idea but the kit is around 800.00 bux. Now GM did install these on a G body w/desiel engine. There is some people who has done this route for around 200.00 - 350.00 bux I believe using J/Y parts. This system is becoming more popular ever year. The 03/04 Cobras used Hydro boost brakes as well as some 3/4 ton trucks. It's got a really cool safty feature that gives you like 70% braking power during brake failure...It's like 3 pumps. It supposed to be more than a Vaccum system...either system seems to give you more than our current system does. I mean if you pop a brake fuse on our system, I think thats the end of your brakes
I did the vacuum conversion on my 84, used some j/y parts and new power booster from a buick v8. The hardest part is the pedal under the dash. I'm going to do a little more research on the hydro boost. But if I get in a hurry I'll probably just go vacuum.
POWERBRAKEBOB
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Hydroboost Vs Vacuum Vs Powermaster
Those "chrome Boosters" Are "off Shore" Units. They Can Only Produce 850 Psi, If You Had Vacuum. Vacuum Is The Problem With The G.n. Those Check Valves Will Blow Apart Under Boost Situations, Then You Have To Change The Pedal, And Make An Adaptor From The Threaded Rod To The Pedal Pin. Adding A Vacuum Pump Is An Extra $400.00 And Still End Up With 850psi To The Brakes. You Need 1200psi Or Better. The Hydroboost Bolts On To The Same Pedal, Delivers All The Pressure You Can Use, And No 12v Burn-upable Pump Is Involved. Your Wife Can Drive The G.n. Flat Out, And Stop It Like A New Showroom Car. The Rotor Heat Is Reduced Dramatically Because Of Reduces Stopping Distance.
Those "chrome Boosters" Are "off Shore" Units. They Can Only Produce 850 Psi, If You Had Vacuum. Vacuum Is The Problem With The G.n. Those Check Valves Will Blow Apart Under Boost Situations, Then You Have To Change The Pedal, And Make An Adaptor From The Threaded Rod To The Pedal Pin. Adding A Vacuum Pump Is An Extra $400.00 And Still End Up With 850psi To The Brakes. You Need 1200psi Or Better. The Hydroboost Bolts On To The Same Pedal, Delivers All The Pressure You Can Use, And No 12v Burn-upable Pump Is Involved. Your Wife Can Drive The G.n. Flat Out, And Stop It Like A New Showroom Car. The Rotor Heat Is Reduced Dramatically Because Of Reduces Stopping Distance.
Mike,
I realize it's been a month, and you have probably converted by now, but I'll bet you a gold dollar that your Accumulator is/was going south. Sometimes what you experienced can be a common symptom. Other variables can play into it, but an accumulator is easier to replace than the entire P/M system and I don't think costs as much and the vacuum kit. No lying on your back to mess with the pedal.
Just thought I would mention.
If you need P/M help, feel free to ask. They're easy.
Patrick
I realize it's been a month, and you have probably converted by now, but I'll bet you a gold dollar that your Accumulator is/was going south. Sometimes what you experienced can be a common symptom. Other variables can play into it, but an accumulator is easier to replace than the entire P/M system and I don't think costs as much and the vacuum kit. No lying on your back to mess with the pedal.
Just thought I would mention.
If you need P/M help, feel free to ask. They're easy.
Patrick
Many months have passed. I bought a chrome master cylinder and booster from Summit. They said it would work. I had a very hard pedal and very little brake. I found out that the 1 1/8 inch bore on the master cylinder is too much for our stock brakes. Ours are 15/16ths. After a few days of conversations, they finally refunded me. I went to the local parts place and got the v-8 regal master cylinder and booster. It works great. I had already replaced the pedal. I couldn't bleed the passenger side caliper, so I bought a new one for $11 and it grabs better than my stock drivers side. I think I'll replace that one too.
