Pre-Paint Advice

[RobV6]

I recently stripped my interior completely right to the firewall including the dash and hand sanded and wire wheeled everything--then 3 full coats of rust converter then a coat of tremclad black---i fitted 2 bucket seats from a sunfire GT and the console shifter--my dash was green but after plenty of washing and adhesion promoter then got a coat of vinyl black--after removing all the chrome parts and buick emblem of course---im gonna coat with rubberized rock guard and then i got a roll of insulation that goes under laminate flooring as the insulation is very dense and has plastic on one side and is about quarter inch thick , im going to cover all the metal ,floors,ceiling and doors and all with this stuff for sound deadening the all the trim parts are all black---the seats in the back are being covered in black leather as well as the buckets---Ilove black :biggrin: then all new rubber seals..

I have a friend down south. He did a black on black Limited. Leather interior.
GOD ...Is that car sharp. If I was looking down the road. Because all my numbers match I decided to stay with the white and blue original, colors.
I waited 5 years for this woman to sell it to me. Becuse most white cars have burgandy interiors. Please when you are done. would love to have a picture. By the way the ruberring was smart on these cars. My GN has org paint. I think it was a grea idea putting it on. Just my opion. By the way. The consoles came new from factory black. But what you have done in preparation. It will where well. If not I have one. Don't know if buick still sells them. Just trying to help. Not a dealer. Think your car will put mine to shame.
Now I have a question. Who would you use to build a block. Last thing left for me. Stay well. anything I can do please let me know....Rob

 

[RobV6]

Kirban is a vendor.

www.kirbanperformance.com

Kirban is good source when all is lost. He has doors and trunk seals. I went with Poston and soft seal for my car. Was rusing to keep up with body man. I think the only error I made was not realizing, my windsheild was tinted. My guy ordered a plain one.Had to go with it. His shop is busy. Kirban is fast though, I don't have his 2006 catalog.Have to get one.

 

[canadianregal]

RobV6

I have been scouting out local rebuild shops in my area and thay are mostly Chebby bred--but i have found one guy that build high perf engines in my area for the stock car guys and some drag racers--ive been talking to him about the line boring proceedures like torquing the heads in place befor you bore and the clearances and such -- he specializes in flow porting heads IE--porting and polishing--i cant decide whether to use the forged pistons though because of the reduced compression--he is checking on how much head plaining it would take to keep up the comp.--i plan on painting the block midnight blue with blue hoses--spark wires and looms and heater hoses and whatnot--alum intake polished and have my headers and true duals painted with high heat aluminum---I had an 86 TA with 68000 original km and i put a ZZ3 crate engine with 150 shot of nos and a 700r4 built by summit racing in it with 3:23 gears-- i loved that car but so did the EX-Wife so it is gone now --i was looking at the ZZ4 last night on GM parts---looks really tempting for my regal---but i would like to stay buick i think

 

[RobV6]

DOn't get me wrong. I do not have a lot of money. Just once in a while ,time seems to work for me. I own a 4,506 org. GN. When I bought it. still stock.
I was going to put heads convertor. Turbo up grade. But as someone told me I would be crazy. Well 5 years I waited for a Limited. Woman owned it. Took her kids to school. I paid 2,500. It has 153,000 miles. I am down to doing the motor. Having problems getting a price. Bought a set of Champion heads used. intercooler. so forth. But machine work. Last week came to 10,000 dollars. My convertor, my heads my trans. Price was based on cleanig and rebuilding my block. That was with girdle and caps. cam, balancing pistons. Which by the way come in different compressions. Check JE,Weisco,
And Weber race engines. They can very to meet your goal. As for me. I ahve to find someone who can do my block.Oh he was also going to take engine out,put in. Tune it. The works.I may go for stock re-build. Only wanted to do this once.
Back to you I will check around. What compression are you looking for?
And make sure they know how to port Buicks. If I can help let me know.
Business has been slow. My car is Painted new bushings and front end.
Jst need a block. Keep in touch. By the way what is your name. My is Rob or Robert, Bob..what ever. Write back.

 

[RobV6]

Missed something. Line honing is a must plus depending on how much boost you are going to run. Forged piston are not really necessary. Your bottom end. Crank caps are the weakest link. Every one this month I've talked to says the same. Sorry for being forgetful. Still drinking coffee...

 

[canadianregal]

Engine work

As near as i can tell all the machine work these shops do is really to high priced unless your building an all out race engine in which every detail counts--what i mean is that heads that flow even half decent will work well with a turbo after all a turbo forces air in right--the better turbo the better it works regardless of the heads capability-"to a point" from a horsepower to dollar value i think a better turbo would gain more than spending 2 grand on a set of ported and polished heads and flow tested and bla bla bla...My research usually centers on what breaks under high load--how to prevent it--ie the cranks are fine even in an NA--plenty of 10 sec cars with NA cranks--provided they are balanced right as well as the rest of rotating assembly--i will spend my money on balancing the rotating assembly--i will smooth the sharp corners in the heads in the runners removing as little material as possible -- get the valves done--3 angle and polish the bowls--again removing as little as possible myself---install all my edelbrock stuff my self and put it back in the car--i talked to a trannyshop they said 1300 bucks for 200r4 with stage 2 shift kit....Ill have the block line bored with heads torqued in place and put all new gaskets , seals , and bearings---the engine is running fine and uses no oil so i should be able to just replace the bearings.
The guy that does all the machine work said he would let me work with him to save money and i get to learn how to do it and thats really the fun part for me--i love to build stuff. Eventually when i can afford it i will probably go with an engine built by TA Performance with aluminum block and all the goodies but i want to run a supercharger and not a turbo...But for now im gonna build my NA as best i can and put the NOS to it and torture it to death to see what it will take It will be fun
Finding a turbo block around here--not likely -- it wold be easier to find hens teeth -- besides why rebuild and wonder when u can buy crate engines all built by someone that does it all the time--I have had great luck with zz3 crate engines and i have really tortured them with no problems--NOS, high revs they seem to be really tough and well put together...and good price for what you get-- i would imagine the crate 3.8 would be the same
MY name is Roger

 

[RobV6]

Roger I tend to agree with you on most parts. The real fast cars as someone
just taught me. Have many dollars in them. I think where we are in life.
At least me, well sure I'd like to have the very best. Can I do it Not now.
But again words of a friend. You can always go up as you wish.
Nice talking with you. Too bad these blocks are getting used up.
I figure if I start now to save. Maybe I can catch a dream...my.02 cents
Rob