Precision Stock location instructions?

[SS/GN]

Does anyone have the instructions for a precision stock location intercooler.I bought a used one and just trying to get an idea of what to do first:biggrin:Thanks

Kevin

 

[dpasadena]

Pretty sure I still have my instructions. I will look for them and send them to you

 

[Len8827]

http://www.gbodyparts.com/BuickStockLocationIntercoolerInstructions.pdf

 

[SS/GN]

Thanks alot,now can anyone tell me how to tell if you have the good bracket or the pos bracket that was usedJust noticed it when I was searching,some of the brackets on the passenger side don't work.Thanks again

Kevin

 

[krazy86t]

i have the pos passenger side bracket. its the only one i have so i don't know how to describe how it is different in size/shape from a good one.

if it seems that the PTE SLIC will only match up with the passenger side bracket by tipping the SLIC down on passenger side, then i would suggest you have the pos bracket and you will have to make adjustments to get everything to line-up (turbo outlet, brackets, etc). if the SLIC matches up with the brackets and turbo outlet and looks level in top flat section, congrats, you probably have a good bracket!

 

[SS/GN]

Thanks,with my good luck it won't

Kevin

 

[turbohh]

If you can give me a day or so, I'm going through the exact same process of mounting my PTE SLIC (with the new "correct" bracket) with my new stroker motor on the engine stand. When I get it scienced out, I can take some pix and post. I had the SLIC mounted in the car on the old motor, and I needed to modify the old bracket to clear the adjusting nut on my oil pump cover by drilling a clearance hole in the right place. I'm doing that again this morning with the new bracket and the motor on the stand. I hate the way the top of the pass bracket attached to the water pump. It's hard to not have a water seep there with all the vibration. Anyone have a slick SLIC fix for this??
John A, Turbohh

 

[turbohh]

Okay, here's a few pix of how I'm mounting my PTE SLIC using the new bracket. I decided to get some 5/16" coarse coated all-thread, and make a long stud for the the top pass side retainer instead of reusing that PTE supplied long bolt. I'll seal it with my Permatex high-temp teflon sealant on the threads and under the washer/spacer and let is set up a few days before I pour in the coolant. THis way I'm hoping that the stud stays sealed in the block better (since it won't have to be removed again), and the crush load is better to prevent leakage. On the bottom pass side, the threads on the alum post were starting to strip out, so I had a new post made, and had it heli-coiled for 5/16 fasteners. Continuing the stud theme, I cut the head off a grade 8 5/16 bolt to make a stud for the bottom pass side of the front cover, threaded on a locking nut, and then screwed on my new SLIC post. I also had my machinist mill a pair of wrench flats on the post so I could get a wrench on it to take it on and off. So now all my SLIC hardware is english instead of half engish and half metric, LOL. I mocked up the SLIC after these pix were taken, and it hung parallel (left-right) to the motor. Hopefully it lines up well with the new turbo... HTH.
John A, Turbohh

 

[MCH86GN]

Does anyone know the size of the small aluminum spacer? I bought a used one and a few parts are missing, the spacer being one.

 

[turbohh]

I have my engine partially apart, so I can measure mine, although frankly, I'd be inclined to buy a bag of washers of the right size, and shim the bracket so it's more or less perpendicular to the lower spacer and evenly spaced from the front of the block. That seemed to help the most with getting the IC to sit level and line up with the turbo outlet. Check the threads on your lower spacer as well, it's not uncommon for them to be stripped out. Let me know if you need the spacer dimension still.
John A, Turbohh

 

[MCH86GN]

I have my engine partially apart, so I can measure mine, although frankly, I'd be inclined to buy a bag of washers of the right size, and shim the bracket so it's more or less perpendicular to the lower spacer and evenly spaced from the front of the block. That seemed to help the most with getting the IC to sit level and line up with the turbo outlet. Check the threads on your lower spacer as well, it's not uncommon for them to be stripped out. Let me know if you need the spacer dimension still.
John A, Turbohh

Yes, I still the dimension. Also, what kind of thread sealant are you using on the long bolt. I was told to use teflon pipe thread sealant. I asked a hardware store and they said, do you mean dope and they said they have teflon tape, which I have. I will also see what the instructions say. I see there is a link listed in this thread.

 

[turbohh]

My spacer comes in at .50" ... I used Loctite 567 Pipe sealant, which is high temp, ideal for head studs (why I have a tube), and pricey. You could likely use regular paste pipe sealant... I just had this available. I put a dollop of "Right stuff" gasket maker under the upper alum. spacer to make sure no water leaks out as well. Let it set up and get hard before you pour your coolant back in. Hope this helps, and good luck... you'll like this IC...
John A, Turbohh

 

[1KWIKSIX]

You can also use "Permatex" Ultra Black sealant on that bolt. If you use any teflon, best to use the paste & not the tape.

 

[X Ray]

Hint....before installing intercooler in vehicle pre install 10 Phillips screws for the aluminum shroud then remove them. This will pre thread the holes.... it is harder to install when in the vehicle.


7.Now you must install the aluminum shroud. The shroud will go over the front sway bar (notice
the large openings on each side of the shroud). There are 10 Phillips screws that hold the shroud
onto the intercooler, 5 on each side. Install all screws loosely at first, and then proceed to tighten
all screws snug.

 

[Dynalow00]

Another option for installing the shroud is to tap the holes in the intercooler- I used a flat bottom fine thread tap. The provided self tapping screws don't grab much, and eventually will fall out. I used stainless allen heads, and just a dab of Loctite. Haven't lost one yet!

 

[MCH86GN]

My spacer comes in at .50" ... I used Loctite 567 Pipe sealant, which is high temp, ideal for head studs (why I have a tube), and pricey. You could likely use regular paste pipe sealant... I just had this available. I put a dollop of "Right stuff" gasket maker under the upper alum. spacer to make sure no water leaks out as well. Let it set up and get hard before you pour your coolant back in. Hope this helps, and good luck... you'll like this IC...
John A, Turbohh

with the spacers I have I am at 3/8". The hardware store that I bought them from only had 3 - 1/8th spacers, I'll have to pick up another one. I have the thread paste and I was trying to avoid draining my radiator. But if I have to, I have to.

 

[MCH86GN]

Hint....before installing intercooler in vehicle pre install 10 Phillips screws for the aluminum shroud then remove them. This will pre thread the holes.... it is harder to install when in the vehicle.


7.Now you must install the aluminum shroud. The shroud will go over the front sway bar (notice
the large openings on each side of the shroud). There are 10 Phillips screws that hold the shroud
onto the intercooler, 5 on each side. Install all screws loosely at first, and then proceed to tighten
all screws snug.

Thanks x-ray.

 

[turbohh]

I think you have remove that long bolt thru the water pump that goes all the way into the water passage in the block, hence the waterfall that starts when you loosen/remove it. I may be mis-remembering, and someone who's done the install more recently than I can chime in here ... If it does tap into the water passages, you'll want to drain the coolant out and let everything dry out so your gasket sealants have a chance to work well. There's a lot of vibration/load on that upper bolt, and you'd just as soon not have it weeping water constantly after a few months (ask me how I know, LOL).
John

 

[MCH86GN]

I think you have remove that long bolt thru the water pump that goes all the way into the water passage in the block, hence the waterfall that starts when you loosen/remove it. I may be mis-remembering, and someone who's done the install more recently than I can chime in here ... If it does tap into the water passages, you'll want to drain the coolant out and let everything dry out so your gasket sealants have a chance to work well. There's a lot of vibration/load on that upper bolt, and you'd just as soon not have it weeping water constantly after a few months (ask me how I know, LOL).
John

Rather safe than sorry, I will pick up a drain pan and drain it. I have to make my own gasket, not sure if a gasket came with it originally since I bought it used. Also I have a small leak, I think from the front cover. Probably a good idea to repair that while the coolant is drained.

 

[1KWIKSIX]

I never drained my radiator during my Precision SLIC installation. Sure some coolant dripped out of the bolt hole that goes thru the water pump housing, but a dab of teflon paste on the bolt & tighten it up quickly and has been absolutely fine,haven't had a leak in years.