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Pretty sure I have a blown head gasket...what parts?

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Scott89TTA

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2005
Messages
1,150
So if you read my post about my fun at the track this past weekend you know what happened. Going to open her up this weekend and access the damage...I'm hoping to just change the head gaskets if no other damage is present. I will do a compression/leak down test 1st just to be sure but all signs point to a blown head gasket. If there is more to it then just the head gasket I'll pull the motor, rebuild and do the heads, cam, water pump and timing chain but I'm keeping my fingers crossed since I am just not ready to spend that much money right now if I don't have to.

So what parts (gaskets, head bolts, etc.) should I order and where should I order them from?

Thanks,
Scott
 
Felpro PT9441 HG's, Felpro intake gasket, cork oil pan gasket, brake cleaner, razor blades, 2 oil changes(10qt, 2 filters), and thats about it. If you dont have ARP fasteners.. you'll need those for the heads.. loctite 567 sealant for the bolts, ARP lube for the bolt heads. A calibrated TQ wrench. A new set of spark plugs.

You should also take the heads and have them surfaced once off the car. A valve job would be a good thing as well.. figuring they are off the car.

You can change them(HG's) in-car. No need to pull the motor. If you have a lot of graphite or milkshake in the intake, then you'll need to pull the pan.

get 4-6 cans of brake cleaner. Surfaces must be 110% oil free on the block and heads.

HTH
 
Advance Auto parts has the gaskets. Just get them for an 87 Buick GN 3.8
 
Thanks Julio...my plan down the road was to do a roller cam, timing chain, water pump, front seal, P&P heads w/new bigger valves (I have a new OEM set on the shelf). I also have a set of Harland Sharp roller rockers, roller lifter, & push rods from JD for when I'm ready. I figured when I pull the heads I would assess the damage and decide then if I go forward with the full plan or not. I wasn't planning on it or the 2K expense until next winter so for now hoping I can just do the head gaskets but as the saying goes . I'm not sure if I should mess with the timing chain, water pump, and front seal yet or not if I plan to pull the motor down the road, maybe next winter?

Thanks,
Scott
 
Pull the pan, if you find plastic debris.. its your OEM chain coming apart. If you dont.. let it roll another 6 months.
 
Most vendors carry them.. no local autoparts stores will.

ROL, Detroit Gasket, Cometic, are three companies that mfg them.
 
Definitely at least one head gasket...:(

Started pulling the car apart today...did the easy head (passenger side) 1st. As soon as I got the header off I knew something was wrong...front exhaust port closest to the turbo had some vanilla pudding around the opening. Sure enough, pulled the head and the head gasket was blown inward..also looks like the other two were stressed a little as well. I think pulling the oil pan is a must now since it looks like a lot of crap went inward. Here are a few pics...


Scott
 

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Scott, do yourself a favor and pull the motor. You will get a much better job and save yourself work in the long run. Ask me how I know.

Michael
 
Scott, do yourself a favor and pull the motor. You will get a much better job and save yourself work in the long run. Ask me how I know.

Michael

DITTO!!!!!

Do it one time, and do everything you want to it, pull it put it on a stand and take your TIME!

JD
 
Scott, do yourself a favor and pull the motor. You will get a much better job and save yourself work in the long run. Ask me how I know.

Michael

With coolant on top of the engine.. it means coolant has moved with the oil.

It needs to be pulled and gone through/cleaned out.
 
With coolant on top of the engine.. it means coolant has moved with the oil.

It needs to be pulled and gone through/cleaned out.

when it was running...just before I drained the coolant the oil and coolant both looked fine. The anti-freeze on the top came out of the head whenI broke the seal pulling it off. Going to pull the pan off Saturday and look things over better. Not sure if I can swing the heads and cam right now so I may just flush it all out and replace as much as I can for now and hope it is ok till next Fall. I may go ahead and change the timiing chain and water pump...especialy if ther is debri in the pan. What about oil pump...I see there is an option for a high volume pump is this recomended?

Thanks,
 
I have had a few tell me to get Cometic gaskets and other say to just get stock gaskets...what should I do ?

Thanks,
Scott
 
I just bought a really nice gasket set from Glen, everything you need, except the valve guides, get them local. His kit does not have exhaust gaskets and the rear and front cover are rope type seals, but at $149.00, it's a nice set.

http://www.***********/servlet/StoreFront No idea why you can't post a web site url! Glen is a supporting vendor (nos4gn/Highway Stars)

I also putting in:

Comp 980 valve springs, Comp CCA-3129 Double Roller TC - Summitt - $90

APR head Bolts, new Cam Button, front cover seal from TA Preformance - $59.00

And I had a new rear seal and exhaust gaskets, just waiting.

Pulled the engine to clean everything up.

Also putting in a 2800 stall and a CK shift kit!
 
You have stock cast pistons= stock gasket.

ordered new Felpro 9441PT head gaskets, felpro intake valley pan, new oil pick-up tube/screen and felpro exhaust manifold gaskets. They should be in tomorrow...all from Advanced Auto Parts. Still need to get head bolts...ordering them Monday along with new cork oil pan gasket and turbo flange gasket. Hopefully I'll be putting it back together next weekend...

Thanks,
Scott
 
Felpro PT9441 HG's, Felpro intake gasket, cork oil pan gasket, brake cleaner, razor blades, 2 oil changes(10qt, 2 filters), and thats about it. If you dont have ARP fasteners.. you'll need those for the heads.. loctite 567 sealant for the bolts, ARP lube for the bolt heads. A calibrated TQ wrench. A new set of spark plugs.
HTH

You list ARP lube for the heads...does this just go under the washers and between the bolt head and washers ? Also con I just use red assembly lube instead ?

Scott
 
You list ARP lube for the heads...does this just go under the washers and between the bolt head and washers ? Also con I just use red assembly lube instead ?

Scott

I would guess so. And yes coat the bolts and washers. Put loctite 567 on the threads. The permatex white paste looks like the same product.

85 ft lbs on the bolts in three steps. I do 40, 60, 85

HTH
 
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