Are you sure it's not primed already and you're just spinning the drill and thinking it's not primed? Pull a valve cover off and try to prime it then. If you have oil coming up through the pushrods, you're good. I might get flamed for this but if it were me, I would have just fired it up for a few seconds and watched the gauge. It'll usually catch within a few seconds and you're not really going to do any damage if everything else is still lubed up. It's not like you're starting it up on a brand new build.
Priming Engine / Cam Sensor Questions
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update?
I FINALLY got my gauge to show oiI pressure!!!!!!! I worked for another couple hours at it and all of a sudden I was giving up and i got it to work Here's what happened......the 1st thing is I gravity fed the oil pump thru the cooler lines about 1.5 quarts. I learned my lesson so, I hung a funnel with a piece of wire from my hood and ran a long tube to my cooler lines...that gave my arms a break so I could do something else while it was slowly draining. Then, I decided to remove the priming tool and use a screwdriver. The feel with the screwdriver was a little different than the priming tool when it was spinning it (drill removed of course. , rotating primer tool by hand) so I noticed that the primer tool must have not been engaging with the oil pimp shaft. I noticed that the grey round piece of aluminum that keeps the shaft centered in the hole was hitting a little piece of the cam shaft gear that was stopping the priming tool from going further down to make contact with the oil pump shaft. I then removed the dowel pins from the tool and removed that round piece, rotated the tool CCW with drill and it began to suck oil from the funnel, YEAH!!!!!
But now I switched to the CW rotation, and I was getting NOTHING, I tried , and tried, and tried, and tried. I didn't have anyone to help, so I set up my video camera and would just play the video back. I kept it up for another 1hr or so then I threw in the towel. I was picking up and I said....let me just put the cam sensor shaft back in and let the car do it for me (what could it hurt, right......) with the orange ECM wire disconnected, I started to spin the engine over , After about 20 secs, I saw the gauge wiggle. Then EUREKA!!!!!!! The pressure started to rise slowly and it rose all the way to 41-42 psi. FINALLY! I did this 2 or 3 more times, and the pressure rose the same way every time. So I think I am good now.
A just have a couple more questions (as if I haven't asked enough already
):
1. When spinning the engine over with the key (orange wire disconnected), the oil pressure takes 15-20secs before anything shows up on the gauge. Is this normal / ok? Also, the pressure builds slowly, takes about 1min for it to reach 40psi. Is this normal /ok? (I never took the time to notice it in all the time that I had the gauge,when the car was running) I am not sure that once the car is actually running, if the oil pressure will appear on the gauge faster and instantly.....
2. I know I still need to set 25*ATDC........ But , When I put the cam sensor shaft back in to spin the engine, I didn't clock it how the instructions state to (the cam sensor shaft). I dropped it in, just to see if it would prime. Does the shaft itself (with the window) need to be installed in a specific orientation (like the instructions) state? I am asking if I need to pull the cam sensor shaft out again (fight with it)and try to clock it. Then of course I need to set the cam sensor at 25*ADTC
But now I switched to the CW rotation, and I was getting NOTHING, I tried , and tried, and tried, and tried. I didn't have anyone to help, so I set up my video camera and would just play the video back. I kept it up for another 1hr or so then I threw in the towel. I was picking up and I said....let me just put the cam sensor shaft back in and let the car do it for me (what could it hurt, right......) with the orange ECM wire disconnected, I started to spin the engine over , After about 20 secs, I saw the gauge wiggle. Then EUREKA!!!!!!! The pressure started to rise slowly and it rose all the way to 41-42 psi. FINALLY! I did this 2 or 3 more times, and the pressure rose the same way every time. So I think I am good now.
A just have a couple more questions (as if I haven't asked enough already
):1. When spinning the engine over with the key (orange wire disconnected), the oil pressure takes 15-20secs before anything shows up on the gauge. Is this normal / ok? Also, the pressure builds slowly, takes about 1min for it to reach 40psi. Is this normal /ok? (I never took the time to notice it in all the time that I had the gauge,when the car was running) I am not sure that once the car is actually running, if the oil pressure will appear on the gauge faster and instantly.....
2. I know I still need to set 25*ATDC........ But , When I put the cam sensor shaft back in to spin the engine, I didn't clock it how the instructions state to (the cam sensor shaft). I dropped it in, just to see if it would prime. Does the shaft itself (with the window) need to be installed in a specific orientation (like the instructions) state? I am asking if I need to pull the cam sensor shaft out again (fight with it
)and try to clock it. Then of course I need to set the cam sensor at 25*ADTC
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mikestertwo
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2. I know I still need to set 25*ATDC........ But , When I put the cam sensor shaft back in to spin the engine, I didn't clock it how the instructions state to (the cam sensor shaft). I dropped it in, just to see if it would prime. Does the shaft itself (with the window) need to be installed in a specific orientation (like the instructions) state? I am asking if I need to pull the cam sensor shaft out again (fight with it )and try to clock it. Then of course I need to set the cam sensor at 25*ADTC
It really doesn't matter where the orientation is set as long as it is timed correctly. If you don't want to pull the sensor out again rotate the engine so it is 25*ATDC. Pull the cap off the sensor and not where the window is. Rotate the base of the cam sensor so the sensor in the cap lines up to the window. Put the cap back on and using the cam sensor tool set the timing.
)and try to clock it. Then of course I need to set the cam sensor at 25*ADTCIt really doesn't matter where the orientation is set as long as it is timed correctly. If you don't want to pull the sensor out again rotate the engine so it is 25*ATDC. Pull the cap off the sensor and not where the window is. Rotate the base of the cam sensor so the sensor in the cap lines up to the window. Put the cap back on and using the cam sensor tool set the timing.
GNONYX
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Okay, you claimed you rotated the tool CCW with drill and it began to suck oil from the funnel, YEAH!!!!!,
But now I switched to the CW rotation, and I was getting NOTHING.
If you read the thread of using this method once you have oil pressure showing on the oil pressure gauge while rotating the drill machine CCW, you have to re-connect the lower oil cooler back onto the radiator. Use the drill machine again, but this time in CW until you see oil pressure on the oil pressure gauge.
This is just to info you for the next time you need to prime the engine
But now I switched to the CW rotation, and I was getting NOTHING.
If you read the thread of using this method once you have oil pressure showing on the oil pressure gauge while rotating the drill machine CCW, you have to re-connect the lower oil cooler back onto the radiator. Use the drill machine again, but this time in CW until you see oil pressure on the oil pressure gauge.
This is just to info you for the next time you need to prime the engine
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There is no need to drop the cam sensor in and do all that extra work. Once the oil pump is primed it's will stay primed. With the cam sensor removed bump the motor with finger in #1 hole. 
When it blows your finger off, you just past tdc on the comperssion stroke. Back the balancer up to your mark and drop the sensor in.
Tip: Mark a line on top of the cam sensor wheel in the direction of oil pump drive on the bottom of the sensor. Use that for reference when lining up with the oil pump shaft.
Rick
When it blows your finger off, you just past tdc on the comperssion stroke. Back the balancer up to your mark and drop the sensor in.Tip: Mark a line on top of the cam sensor wheel in the direction of oil pump drive on the bottom of the sensor. Use that for reference when lining up with the oil pump shaft.
Rick
I would have just put a filter on the oil pump cover like stock and got my pressure to show. Then put the relocation thing on and repeat. Should build pressure the same both ways, if not go and see whats up.
I dont spin motors to see if I get pressure.. especially having a drill there handy with the proper tool.
I dont spin motors to see if I get pressure.. especially having a drill there handy with the proper tool.
GNONYX,
I guess I missed that small and important detail. That would have probably solved my problems, saved me time and made my life much easier. I read and re-read all the the info here and in other threads so many times, and I can't believe that I missed that important detail. But thanks, I know the exact procedure for the next time and shouldn't have any problems....thanks !
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There is no need to drop the cam sensor in and do all that extra work. Once the oil pump is primed it's will stay primed. With the cam sensor removed bump the motor with finger in #1 hole.
Tip: Mark a line on top of the cam sensor wheel in the direction of oil pump drive on the bottom of the sensor. Use that for reference when lining up with the oil pump shaft.
Rick
Thanks TurboBuRick,
That tip about Marking a line on the cam sensor wheel really helped with the lining the cam sensor with the oil pump shaft. Took me only a couple minutes to get that bad boy back in . Much easier!....being very careful of course ;-)
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Just for some understanding.....
1) what is the purpose of using Vaseline in oil pump to prime? What does the Vaseline do?
2. Which one of the cooler lines on the radiator is the supply and which one is the return?
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1) what is the purpose of using Vaseline in oil pump to prime? What does the Vaseline do?
2. Which one of the cooler lines on the radiator is the supply and which one is the return?
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Creates a vacuum and allows the oil to be sucked from the pan,
The top is the feed but i would highly recommend you not to use the stock oil cooler if the engine was ever damaged.
So the vacuum is needed since the oil pump gears don't sit in the oil fluid? What are the benefits for a "gear driven, external" oil pump vs the " in pan" mechanical oil pump for some reason?
No the motor I had wasn't damaged, but definitely used and not taken care of. I have completely went thru the motor and rebuilt it. The Radiator, Etc is all new.
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No the motor I had wasn't damaged, but definitely used and not taken care of. I have completely went thru the motor and rebuilt it. The Radiator, Etc is all new.
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Last edited:
I finished putting the car together and noticed that my oil pressure wasn't the same as what it used to be.
I have installed the RJC Biggie oil filter adapter and the biggest wix filter that was recommended.
Before biggie filter:
20psi @ idle
40+psi while cruising
After biggie filter install:
10psi @ idle
20-25psi while cruising
Gets to 40psi while in boost
I am wondering if the bigger oil filter has anything to do with the decrease in pressure? Could the extra filtering media in filter have anything to do with decreased oil pressure?
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I have installed the RJC Biggie oil filter adapter and the biggest wix filter that was recommended.
Before biggie filter:
20psi @ idle
40+psi while cruising
After biggie filter install:
10psi @ idle
20-25psi while cruising
Gets to 40psi while in boost
I am wondering if the bigger oil filter has anything to do with the decrease in pressure? Could the extra filtering media in filter have anything to do with decreased oil pressure?
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did you do my oil mods and/or set up the pumps end play clearances?
A larger filter will give you less pressure drop and a more efficient pump. I've never heard of losing pressure by going bigger. The only way I could imagine that's possible is if someone installed an ultra high micron filter that can't flow well.
A larger filter will give you less pressure drop and a more efficient pump. I've never heard of losing pressure by going bigger. The only way I could imagine that's possible is if someone installed an ultra high micron filter that can't flow well.
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Re clearanced the bearing dry cranking the hell out of it?
GNONYX
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We still don't know which way system he used to prime the oil pressure.
It might be possible he used the Vaseline system, place a different gasket and lose the clearance.
It might be possible he used the Vaseline system, place a different gasket and lose the clearance.
No, I don't do any oil upgrades. Only oil related things that I have did recently was :
- New stock oil cooler lines (stock
replacements)
- biggie filter kit
- Large Wix filter
- new oil cooler hose adapters
(stock)
- oil change
That's it, all were done at the same time. I was having the issue with priming, so I did remove the oil pump gears to pack them with Vaseline.
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I dont follow you what you are saying. Can you clarify?
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It was a fancy way of saying 're machining the bearings' when you were spinning it dry.
When you assembled your pump, what spring did you put in the relief valve. Also, do you know for sure the relief valve plunger slides freelly and bottoms out on its seat?
When you assembled your pump, what spring did you put in the relief valve. Also, do you know for sure the relief valve plunger slides freelly and bottoms out on its seat?
This sounds like some really bad news.....:-(
I didn't remove spring or messed with anything like that when I filled it with grease. I only removed the oil filter , the oil cooler adapter, and the pump cover. When I first removed the coil pump /gear cover or casing I was looking dead at the pump gears. I was getting ready to pack the grease into the cavities, when one of the gears fell down. I remembered the clocking and pushed it back in. This was only 1 gear. Then I pit the pump cover back on, and so forth. Springs etc was touched....
I have also noticed that the oil pressure shoots up to like 90psi when warming up, then lowers once it's warmed up. So the oil Pressure isn't always low.
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I didn't remove spring or messed with anything like that when I filled it with grease. I only removed the oil filter , the oil cooler adapter, and the pump cover. When I first removed the coil pump /gear cover or casing I was looking dead at the pump gears. I was getting ready to pack the grease into the cavities, when one of the gears fell down. I remembered the clocking and pushed it back in. This was only 1 gear. Then I pit the pump cover back on, and so forth. Springs etc was touched....
I have also noticed that the oil pressure shoots up to like 90psi when warming up, then lowers once it's warmed up. So the oil Pressure isn't always low.
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