Priming engine only 38 psi oil pressure

[20psiofevil]

It's a ryobi and it's got a 600 / min marking on it so I'm assuming that's 600 rpms

I use a black and decker on my engine and with 10/40 break in oil I could barely spin the pump. It was enough to move oil to the top of the rockers and did this for a couple minutes and considered that primed.Cranked it up and 80psi cold like a champ.

 

[michael evans]

Will the engine loose it's prime if I change to an adjustable regulator ?

 

[turbofrank]

I just went through same thing your drill is not strong enough. In my case couldn't find heavy duty drill so primed until most of gurgling was gone and oil sprayed from top of all rockers. Priming with under powered drill takes longer and over heats drill.

 

[ek02]

Will the engine loose it's prime if I change to an adjustable regulator ?

It should not loose it's prime. The oil will still be in the gears and should have enough suction to get pressure right away. In regards to drills used for priming, I use a 1/2" Craftsman rated at 600 RPM and it does put a lot of load on the drill.

 

[TTipe]

It should not loose it's prime. The oil will still be in the gears and should have enough suction to get pressure right away. In regards to drills used for priming, I use a 1/2" Craftsman rated at 600 RPM and it does put a lot of load on the drill.

How many watts / amps is your drill rated at? I have a TA front cover and the clearances are tight.

 

[20psiofevil]

I've seen a guy use an air impact.

 

[TurboBuRick]

I've seen a guy use an air impact.

That's brutal.

I use a 18v dewalt cordless 1/2 drill. It has 3 speeds. I start the priming process in 2nd then drop it down to 1st when the load comes on.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Will the engine loose it's prime if I change to an adjustable regulator ?

IMO There is absolutely no reason to run a adjustable oil bypass. It does nothing for run pressure. It raises peak pressure witch over loads the pump and cam gear. Max oil pressure should never be more than 80psi. I personally shoot for 70. Just saying..

 

[bison]

IMO There is absolutely no reason to run a adjustable oil bypass. It does nothing for run pressure. It raises peak pressure witch over loads the pump and cam gear. Max oil pressure should never be more than 80psi. I personally shoot for 70. Just saying..

I had one job early this year because the nylon washer on one of those shitty things failed and leaked. The owner started his car went inside and came back out 20 minutes later and there was 5 quarts of oil on his driveway and it was knocking.


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[Chuck Leeper]

^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[bison]

^^^^^^^^^^^^

40,000 miles


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[ek02]

IMO There is absolutely no reason to run a adjustable oil bypass. It does nothing for run pressure. It raises peak pressure witch over loads the pump and cam gear. Max oil pressure should never be more than 80psi. I personally shoot for 70. Just saying..

Correct, it will not change idle pressure but is handy to get the 70 PSI I always shoot for. Never had a problem leaking at the washer, but I only set it once and I don't over tighten. It beats changing springs. Each to his own methods, whatever works for you is always the best way to go.

 

[87we410877]

Is the front cover and oil pump off your old engine, and did it have good oil pressure? Did the new engine have dowel pins on the front of the block to locate the cover? On the intake side is the gasket mating properly on the pick up and front cover, and is the screen off the pan 1/4"? If all that is good, then it has to be too much bearing clearance or a plug leaking or missing in the front of the block. I would call ATK's warranty department for guidance if everything is good that you can check without going into the long block.

The front cover and oil pump are new from atk and came as part of the long block. There are dowel pins on the block. I cannot check the pickup tube as the motor is installed now.

What are the two plugs on the block that could be missing or loose? Internal or external? Because I have 0 leaks externally.

I will get a video this week of the noise. Hoping it's the pickup or something simple. Just spent over a month getting everything together and installed

 

[ek02]

There are 2 small cup type plugs behind the upper timing gear on either side of the cam. Most builders remove the plugs when cleaning the oil galleys and tap the holes for pipe plugs, the passenger side being a shallow plus so it does not block the oil passage behind it. I doubt ATK did that. The stock plugs are just staked in place. The ATK front cover may have a weak oil relief spring. The stock N/A pumps did not have a lot of pressure, or they used the wrong length spring when they rebuilt the pump. ATK tech support or warranty dept may be of some help. At this point I would try a shimmed stock spring or a new heavier spring just to prove that it's not a bearing or internal leak problem. You should have 60 PSI cold cranking at 600RPM, and the drill should load down a bunch. If it stays at 38PSI, then it's warranty time.

 

[ek02]

How many watts / amps is your drill rated at? I have a TA front cover and the clearances are tight.

3.0 amps@600 RPM

 

[TurboBuRick]

Correct, it will not change idle pressure but is handy to get the 70 PSI I always shoot for. Never had a problem leaking at the washer, but I only set it once and I don't over tighten. It beats changing springs. Each to his own methods, whatever works for you is always the best way to go.

I will not change idle or run pressure. It only changes max oil pressure.

 

[TurboBuRick]

I had one job early this year because the nylon washer on one of those shitty things failed and leaked. The owner started his car went inside and came back out 20 minutes later and there was 5 quarts of oil on his driveway and it was knocking.


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Absolute garbage.

 

[TTipe]

There are 2 small cup type plugs behind the upper timing gear on either side of the cam. Most builders remove the plugs when cleaning the oil galleys and tap the holes for pipe plus, the passenger side being a shallow plus so it does not block the oil passage behind it. I doubt ATK did that. The stock plugs are just staked in place. The ATK front cover may have a weak oil relief spring. The stock N/A pumps did not have a lot of pressure, or they used the wrong length spring when they rebuilt the pump. ATK tech support or warranty dept may be of some help. At this point I would try a shimmed stock spring or a new heavier spring just to prove that it's not a bearing or internal leak problem. You should have 60 PSI cold cranking at 600RPM, and the drill should load down a bunch. If it stays at 38PSI, then it's warranty time.

For your info the stock front covers were select fit based on a pressure check at Factory 31. Front covers >/= to the low limit (I can remember what that was ) were used for LC2 builds. The rest went into the LD5 (3.8l 110 hp carb).

 

[87we410877]

I can safely say its not the pickup tube. Here is a pic of when i installed it. New pickup tube with Gasket installed. I'll try priming it for longer periods of time and see what i get. I also have a dyno sheet they test it at the factory i can see what the numbers were. Im thinking its something with those plugs or nothing. Maybe just needs longer prime time. I really hope so.

 

[TurboBuRick]

What lifter are you running??