Project mock up.

[WFO]

You might try resetting your idle air control and see what that does for your idle speed.

Might want to check for vacuum leaks.

What are you using for a boost controller?

No surprise on the stall speed. You can probably tune some more spool and boost into it with a bit more seat time.

 

[1dollardog]

I'll check for vacuum leaks. I suspect I'll find some. I'm using a diy boost controller, basically an on and off valve I had laying around. I'll reset the idle air control and see if that helps (just unplug it and plug it back in after a minute, right?). I'm not ready to give up yet but I have all the parts to put it back stock if I need to.

 

[1dollardog]

Ok, I tried resetting the iac with no luck. I have a ported tb and the inlet and exit of the iac have been honed down. I can plug that intake hole and it brings the rpms down some but not to what it needs to be. I have it plugged right now with tempory duct tape (sorry guys its temporary for now). It still idles high, around 1150 or so. I checked all of the vacuum lines and they all looked fine. I had a D5 converter rebuilt and restalled last year to what I thought was 2500 (thats what I asked for anyway). I did notice today that footbraking it, it still wouldn't stall above 1900 or so. A 2500 stall converter should let the engine reach 2500 rpm's, right? Going by this, I'd think that an actual 2500-2800 stall would help tremendously. I let the car warm up for quite a while today and noticed alot of heat still leaching through the header wrap. I'm going to wrap it again starting at the headers and work my way back and maybe this will insulate enough to get the heat back. The only difference between this set up and the twin turbo guys that mount the turbos on the headers under the hood is simply the heat. That is the struggle at this point.

 

[RIFF RAFF]

Tps

what are your tps readings .48 or ? 2800-3000 would fit well

 

[1dollardog]

what are your tps readings .48 or ? 2800-3000 would fit well

I'll post all my scanmaster readings tomorrow. There was a post on the site somewhere a while back stating the "target numbers" that you should shoot for. Does anyone know where I can find something like that? I have the scanmaster 2.0.

Edit: I think I found what I needed after a quick search. One thing that may be screwing me up is my 02 sensor is in one header only so its only reading half of the exhaust gasses and reacting accordingly. The exhaust "smells" like it is running a bit rich at idle. My AF is 7 and I've read that this is a bit high and may be causing some of my high idle. Any and ALL imput on this will be apreciated.

 

[WFO]

IAC Reset Procedure

Adjusting the TPS

Make sure your throttle and TV cables aren't hanging up and keeping your throttle open. Your TPS reading should show you if it is.

 

[1dollardog]

IAC Reset Procedure

Adjusting the TPS

Make sure your throttle and TV cables aren't hanging up and keeping your throttle open. Your TPS reading should show you if it is.

ok here are my numbers as I read them from my scanmaster 2.0. after I replaced my iac. The old one wasn't working at all. Its original reading was 171. I adjusted the tps as well. Its original reading was 80 at idle. The scanmaster is missing a couple bars on the letter/number for the sensor reading so I may post an odd looking sensor but the result readings are true.

Milivolts jumps around, It is between:
298-644
af 07
l8 28
bAE 13.6
lne 128
bl 131
nph 00
cle 168
aes 71
r 1225
tps 40
iac 0
nal 00

notice that even with the iac screw all the way out and reading 0, the rpms are still way high at idle.

 

[getchasum]

Several Ideas

Add a 75 shot of NOS controlled with a microprocessor switch cut off at about 4000k rpms should help get her going.

Are the headers long tube or shorties. If enough room, flip them into the engine compartment & mount the turbos directly to them & add alky.

I personal think the v6 is to small to run rear mount turbos, got to remember the v8 cars already make good power before adding them, so really it’s a bonus in that application

 

[1dollardog]

I like the idea of NOS Scott. Maybe some day. Right now I need to fix this idling issue before I move on to boost. They are long tube old school hooker headers. Honestly they could be modified pretty easily to be used for an under hood TT set up. The idle smoothed out once I set the tps correctly. It is still high but smooth. Its like I have a huge vacuum leak but I've checked everything.

 

[getchasum]

Check this hot arir thread out.....

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/66291-87-hot-air.html

 

[Boostnitup]

nitrous works...

You don't need a huge shot to see fast spool.

I bet a 60 - 75 horse will make a huge difference.

 

[motorhead]

$5 says your IAC is toast.

 

[1dollardog]

$5 says your IAC is toast.

You Sir are correct. I put another one on it (I think I have a spare everything) and removed the duct tape of course and voila. It worked. However this just got me back to ground zero. The iac is working fine and I have set the tps and all this smoothed out the idle (no longer sounds like a big cam) but the rpm is still very high. I suspect that the throttle body adapter that I fabbed is leaking somewhere. I'll take the tb off and see if I see any gaps or cracks that could be sucking air. It is fabbed to fit into the intake hole snug plus it is bolted on as well as the whole seam being JB welded. If that is leaking and allowing it to suck excess air and shoot the rpms up then it is only natural that I would lose boost out of the same hole. I'll start there. I'M NOT GIVING UP!

 

[RegalT-type85]

Not sure if you have tried this or if it will help. mess with the IAC adjustment screw on the TB. Also if your twin turbo then your RPMs should be about 1,000 or so. Might be sucking more air then those injectors can handle , just guessing tho.

 

[1dollardog]

Yep, like I said before I've replaced and adjusted the iac. I've actually adjusted it to zero and still too high. When I adjust it to the suggested setting the rpm's really go up. I'm sure I must have a big air leak somewhere.

 

[WFO]

So is your throttle body blade completely shut AND your IAC counts are zero and your idle is still high?

Also it looks like your TPS might be a touch low. I like mine to be .44-.46,depending on your chip programming .40 might be screwing with it a bit.

 

[1dollardog]

So is your throttle body blade completely shut AND your IAC counts are zero and your idle is still high?

Also it looks like your TPS might be a touch low. I like mine to be .44-.46,depending on your chip programming .40 might be screwing with it a bit.

Yes. I took the iat ot zero and idle still high. I'll reset the tps and see if that helps. I had it at 42 but the wot number was off, When I reset it to get the correct wot numbers it brought the idle number to 40. I know over on the turboregal info page of gnttype.org it list 40 as the beginning normal. I'm getting some unwanted air in there from somewhere for sure. I've checked all the hoses and even took the vacuum block off and blocked the ports with plastic to allow zero air through and the idle was still high. I've removed the tb and cleaned the surfaces as well as looked for any holes or gaps in the adapter that was fabbed to mount the tb to the intake. Only thing I could find there was the slightest crack in the jbweld where they are pieced together. The adapter was made to fit the intake turbo hole snuggly plus it is bolted and then I sealed everything with jbweld. Anyway I jb'd it again just to be on the safe side. I have everything sealed and put back together and was going to give everything 24 hours to cure. We got a suprise 2 inches of snow today so I haven't even been out to the GN to start it up and see if all that worked. I hope I can get this idle problem fixed so I can move on to boost. Fingers crossed

 

[1dollardog]

Is it possible to have a vacuum leak in the intake itself? Is there anyway it could pull air from inside the engine or between ports or somewhere else. After making sure there were no leaks at the tb and the vacuum lines and the tb adapter, I still have the idle problem. I started the car today. Outside temp was in the 30's. Car shot to around 1400 rpms. I watched the iac numbers and they went from well over 180 and came down slowly to around 10 and dropped to zero (where I had set it originally). Rpms at this point had come down to 1000. Still a bit high but respectable after what I had been dealing with. I thought I had found the problem. As the motor idled and warmed up, the rpm's began creaping back up. At 160 when my electric fan kicked on I was at around 1400 rpm's again. I did some port work on the intake during this project. Could I have done something to cause this?

 

[charlief1]

Yes, you can have an internal leak where the heads an intake bolt together. Take the PCV valve out and let the engine idle. Stick your finger over both the PCV valve and the hole it was in and see if both are sucking air. If you've got breathers in the valve cover you'll need to plug them.

 

[1dollardog]

Yes, you can have an internal leak where the heads an intake bolt together. Take the PCV valve out and let the engine idle. Stick your finger over both the PCV valve and the hole it was in and see if both are sucking air. If you've got breathers in the valve cover you'll need to plug them.

Thanks I'll do that. I'm sure this project will be a success if I will just stop sabatoging myself...haha