Pros step inside - Re-evaluating using my Q form kick panels

[BuickMike]

My plan is to create my front soundstage using a set of CDT CL 62 pro components. I was going to put the 6.5's and main tweeters in the Q forms, and mount the imaging tweeters somewhere on the pillars. The 6.5's are deep, and won't actually fit in the Q forms unless I make a 1/2" spacer for them. I am concerned that they will not put out any bass down there due to lack of air space. Not to mention that I'm gonna have to beef up the Q forms.

Should I:

A: Go through as planned
B: Put the 6.5's in the doors
C: Ditch these altogether and use a set of Focal Polykevlar 5.25 components instead

Help!

 

[Eticket]

I vote B. give up some imaging and pick up some midbass.

 

[turbot3.8]

"B" sounds best.

 

[Phoneguy]

If you take plan B , I would be interested in the Q forms

Bryan

 

[BuickMike]

Bryan, I will keep you posted about the Q Forms. I'm gonna hit up a few more people for opinions before I jump to a decision. I really wanted to make the kick panels work, but I just don't think they are cut out for such large midbass drivers.

 

[BuickMike]

Ok, so I'm convinced that I will put the 6.5's in the doors. Since I swapped out to the A-1 electric windows motors / regulators, the motor does not inhibit the speaker hole at all. I have 3" between the inner door skin and the glass. So, I'm going to be able to mount the 6.5's on a 1/2" MDF baffle with some very minor cutting to the door panels that won't be visible under the factory Concert Sound II covers. I will have to make some new covers though I think.

A friend suggested I keep the CDT modbass drivers and image tweets, but still use the kicks and put my Focals in there. Not sure if this is overkill or not. Properly crossed over this may sound pretty awesome. I will just try the CDT's as is and see if it is "good enough".

 

[lrayzer]

I did both, filled the kick panels and added another set of components to my doors, tweeters are in the area ahead of the switches, they point upward and in slightly, front stage is very nice, also 3.5" dash drivers for more fill

 

[Eticket]

tell me about these a-1 electric motors and regulators? very interested.

 

[fuzzyGN]

I just did the Focal 6.5 in/on the door and put the tweets in the dash where the original 3.5's were. They fire directly up into the windshield which creates a very full front stage. Then I have a pair of 10's in a box firing backwards. It is AWESOME! Very simple VERY clean and very loud. The Focals are a little spendy but worth every penny. The only thing some may not like is the tweets are a little "bright" but it doesn't take long to be delighted It sounds better than many builds where the owner has spent many thousands more. The stereo shop I frequent calls me often to "bring the car by" so someone else can check it out. My opinion and experience; keep it simple and enjoy.

 

[Eticket]

How did you get by mounting the focals and what series? I have some older polyglass here along with quarts and some big infinity midbasses... Hard to make a decision how to mount due to not wanting to hack up a door panel too much.

 

[fuzzyGN]

I had an extra set of lower door panels that I used. We (my crack dealer; what I call the stereo shop) actually built pods onto the lowers to fit the big drivers. The Focals are almost 7" in diameter and rather deep. We ripped the old carpet off and then replaced it once finished. We did make a hole in the panel itself, or if concert sound then you are already there, but I think the door panel could be left uncut. Anyway, it was still a tight squeeze. There is less than 1/4" between the door sill and the pod when closing the door. Not a great picture but hopefully you get the idea. Everything was then wrapped in black pleather. It looks very custom and very professional. The speakers are the Kevlar series but not the insanely expensive ones, just the extremely expensive.

 

[Eticket]

Erik.. very nice... can you pm me what something like that costs nowadays? I've been out of the hobby for quite a few years and have no idea what custom labor costs anymore.

 

[BuickMike]

tell me about these a-1 electric motors and regulators? very interested.

I bought these to replace my worn out power window units. They are counter sprung so they go up and down at the same speed. They are fast too. I highly recommend them for anyone who hates their power windows.

 

[Danster]

Where did you buy electric motors from? Got a part number? Mine's suck and I need to replace the switches on each side so I might as well do the regulators while I'm at it.

 

[TLIMITED]

Where did you buy electric motors from? Got a part number? Mine's suck and I need to replace the switches on each side so I might as well do the regulators while I'm at it.

X2

 

[Eticket]

http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=GM19-K

looks like the upgrade is about $250.

Can you take some pictures of the original concert sound speaker area? if this gets rid of the big regulator gear and opens up the entire area for speakers, it is probably a done deal for me.

Thanks for the info.

 

[BuickMike]

I'll try and get some pics this week.

 

[Eticket]

no rush (for me) anyway.. others might be on a shorter timeframe.

this is a great thread for the board I think.

 

[Gunmetal87]

I bought these to replace my worn out power window units. They are counter sprung so they go up and down at the same speed. They are fast too. I highly recommend them for anyone who hates their power windows.

Are the replacement motors plug and play or do you have to splice wires? Thanks

 

[turbot3.8]

Isn't this tread supposed to be about the speaker panels NOT window motors.

Let's stay on topic, or start another tread for the motors.