Push Lock Vacuum Fittings
- Thread starter blackgn1
- Start date
toofastforyou
2FAST4U
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Truly worth it so you don't have to worry about those Gremlins anymore and it cleans up the engine bay. Sometimes its a b**** to find a leak in those hard metal lines when you have temp variations.
The GN will get one for sure
oh great claude, now everybodies gonna have these!!!!!!!! j/k they are pretty cool, after i saw it on your car @ jacks i had to have it too. your car is bad ass by the way... hope mine can be on that level too some day....(i got erics old car).....ttyl............joel
Fleet Pride sells the fittings and lines if you have one near you
Black Power
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2006
Pics or shenanigans!
T- Type Tim
Vice Chairman
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2001
SMC Fittings & Tubing - Anti-static, flame resistant, clean room and food service
Another option to chose from here.
We have these all over the place at my work and somehow they ended up on my car
Another option to chose from here.
We have these all over the place at my work and somehow they ended up on my car
GerrywithaG
Member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2010
we do that occasionally on some of the cars here. good idea for the people that have those big plenum spacers and complain about the vac block hitting the hood liner..
Gerry I looking at that type of setup for my next motor. Tapping the intake in the back and running a 3/8 line into a vacuum block under the coil bracket. Is the single 3/8 line to the vacuum block then out of the vacuum block with 1/8 fittings going to supply everything with enough vacuum?
The_Six
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2009
I would think you can pull more vacuum this that way then the stock block. If I ever get my car back on the road I’ll let you know how much vacuum I’m pulling. Mustangs come that way for the factory if ford can do it any one can. You could always tap a hole for the PCV on its own then use the block for just the other stuff. The block I’m using has 2 3/8 ports one I’m using for the connection to the intake the other is going to a catch can for the PVC.
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2003
dont do a single 3/8 to all your vac , the pcv is a leak , the hvac is a draw , if you have vac brakes the brakes are a draw , all these can affect the true vacuum reading to important sensors like the map for alky or if you're runing speed density . fpr and other sensing devices like a hobbs for second pump, boost gauge etc
if you have vac brakes run them off a dedicated port , preferably a 3/8 ID source , i ran a 3/8 npt x -6 fitting and ran 6an braided hose to my vac booster and used a summit billet 6an check valve at the booster
same for the pcv , its a metered leak so anything tied to it wont read the true vacuum or be able to pull full vacuum
run it on its own port , an 1/8npt to 1/4" ID fitting should be fine
for maps hobbs , fuel regulator or boost gauge that dont move much air in their operation you can tie them together
hvac should also be seperated from others
i chose to just tap into the plenum and block off the stock location at top of throttle body
brakes are much improved over the billet vac block setup and with pushlock im not worried about important supply lines popping off
if you have vac brakes run them off a dedicated port , preferably a 3/8 ID source , i ran a 3/8 npt x -6 fitting and ran 6an braided hose to my vac booster and used a summit billet 6an check valve at the booster
same for the pcv , its a metered leak so anything tied to it wont read the true vacuum or be able to pull full vacuum
run it on its own port , an 1/8npt to 1/4" ID fitting should be fine
for maps hobbs , fuel regulator or boost gauge that dont move much air in their operation you can tie them together
hvac should also be seperated from others
i chose to just tap into the plenum and block off the stock location at top of throttle body
brakes are much improved over the billet vac block setup and with pushlock im not worried about important supply lines popping off
Attachments
The black tubing is going to be 1/8 or 1/4. Typically the threads are going to be 1/8 npt.
I would suggest you use compression fittings, like the ones on the back of your boost gauge. That way the hose cannot "pop off".. example fuel pressure regulator.
On mine I had drilled out my fuel pressure reg to 1/16 npt, then used a 1/16 npt to -3 male adapter. Then ran -3 braided hose from the FPR to the block. This using SS braided hose. Fittings where nickel from XRP. I used a spacer from Champion and drilled the fittings into it.
3bar MAP, I cut of the ridge on its nipple and installed a compression fitting. Then adapted it to -3 and ran braided hose to it. Cannot be popped off
Overkill.. maybe so. The wrong hose pop's off at the end of a pass.. it ruins your day.. and the car can be done for a long time. Look at the brake booster connection.. that fitting is available at Summit.
Many ways this can be done. HTH
Razor,
Looking through this thread and was wanting to know if you wouldnt mind giving me some detail pictures from different angle and up close. I am wanting to do push locks, but want to see how yours looks for my own. I would really appreciate it!!
Clinton
