Put down an LS1 Z with my stock 93 Cobra (GN is down for maintenance)
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
best time was on a full drag slick, and the car is a 2001 camaro
and it is ran with 9psi in the slicks.most people don't think it is true till they see it run that's ok after they see it ,it is a different tune they sing.dont worry i'll let you knowhow much better it runs in the spring with my goodies .
it sure was nice to talk to more non people who don't have a car that runs like this only people who have one will understand.
ok i have a friend that works at jegs that has a 87 t type lim.that
runs 11.70 with stock long block and turbo is that hard to understand?it just has all the reg turbo bolt ons and he can understand.
and it is ran with 9psi in the slicks.most people don't think it is true till they see it run that's ok after they see it ,it is a different tune they sing.dont worry i'll let you knowhow much better it runs in the spring with my goodies .
it sure was nice to talk to more non people who don't have a car that runs like this only people who have one will understand.
ok i have a friend that works at jegs that has a 87 t type lim.that
runs 11.70 with stock long block and turbo is that hard to understand?it just has all the reg turbo bolt ons and he can understand.
L
LS-1
Guest
There is no way a reg. weight F-body is going to trap 114 mph with 345 rwhp. Nice try......
BTW, are you going to show up and race...... sounds like you got called out?
BTW, are you going to show up and race...... sounds like you got called out?
lyonsd
Active Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
- Messages
- 2,698
13.17@100.93 was on slicks?
11.94 @114mph bolt-on (no power adder) LS1 F-body....
Long tube headers?? Why not tell us about the "1 bolt on" that's not on your list.... I guess your one of those secretive racers or maybe your just an internet racer! Maybe you unbolted some stuff like (your car is a light weight) cause I know about the fastest bolt-on (no power adder) LS1s and Raughammer who had the fastest had a huge converter (4200-4500 stall Yank), 4.10 gears, and his car was pretty damn light (3000-3200lbs if my memory serves me correct) and he was running in the mid 11's (11.50-11.60 range, maybe an 11.40) before he went with a heads/cam package.... I know plenty about LS1s and so far this sounds like a smelly load of BS cause if you are only making 345rwhp and your car is full weight (3500-3700lbs) you would be running mid to high 12's (maybe a low 12 with a really good 60') @108-110mph (112mph at best) and also that 405 rear wheel torque number makes no sense on an LS1 unless you were spraying the car cause I have seen some LS1s dyno and when they get sprayed the torque #'s tend to be higher than the horsepower #'s by about 40-60 #'s and usually bolt on auto LS1 F-bodies that I've seen make 380-400rwhp and 440-460rwtq with a 125 shot of the juice and keep in mind without the spray they are making 330-350rwhp and 340-360rwtq so that is why your dyno #'s make no sense to me
Long tube headers?? Why not tell us about the "1 bolt on" that's not on your list.... I guess your one of those secretive racers or maybe your just an internet racer! Maybe you unbolted some stuff like (your car is a light weight) cause I know about the fastest bolt-on (no power adder) LS1s and Raughammer who had the fastest had a huge converter (4200-4500 stall Yank), 4.10 gears, and his car was pretty damn light (3000-3200lbs if my memory serves me correct) and he was running in the mid 11's (11.50-11.60 range, maybe an 11.40) before he went with a heads/cam package.... I know plenty about LS1s and so far this sounds like a smelly load of BS cause if you are only making 345rwhp and your car is full weight (3500-3700lbs) you would be running mid to high 12's (maybe a low 12 with a really good 60') @108-110mph (112mph at best) and also that 405 rear wheel torque number makes no sense on an LS1 unless you were spraying the car cause I have seen some LS1s dyno and when they get sprayed the torque #'s tend to be higher than the horsepower #'s by about 40-60 #'s and usually bolt on auto LS1 F-bodies that I've seen make 380-400rwhp and 440-460rwtq with a 125 shot of the juice and keep in mind without the spray they are making 330-350rwhp and 340-360rwtq so that is why your dyno #'s make no sense to me
lyonsd
Active Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
- Messages
- 2,698
I don't care about the 11.94. I'm confused how you can run a 13.17 with a trap speed of only 100.93.
What happened? Did you lift your foot before the end?
13.17 @100.93mph doesn't sound right either unless you lifted because most LS1 A4 (auto) F-bodies I've seen run low 13's usually trap anywhere from 104-106mph and usually the 6spd cars usually trap 2-3mph faster for the same given E/T as an auto car would have.... To tell you the truth I've only seen a couple of bone stock LS1 F-bodies run 13.0's and 12.90's and they were all 6spd cars with real good drivers kind of like how Evan Smith got an '01 6spd SS Camaro to run 12.96 @107.43mph in 91* weather in the middle of the summer on radials and this car weighed 3818lbs w/ the driver (Evan Smith).... the same car was dynoed after it was run at the track and it made 321rwhp and 341rwtq and again this was bone stock w/ the factory dirty paper air filter! This car seemed to make more power because it had 11K miles on it and from what I've heard the LS1s seem to increase in power the more they are driven until a certain point (I think I heard up until 15-20K miles).... Also, another thing to consider is the 2001 and 2002 LS1 F-bodies got the LS6 intake and a Vortec truck cam which are said to be good for 20 or so horsepower so maybe your car (an '01 LS1 Camaro) did run 11.94 @114mph with a stock long block, but I bet it is a little lighter and you do have long tube headers and please tell me how you are getting a 1.64 60' and keeping the sh!tty factory rearend from breaking!?
I don't believe it either... Scan us a timeslip 
the 13.17 run was no more mile an hour due to traction controll taking over i lifted and came back on again.
now my one power adder is??? you are good it is nos and numbers are 387rwh and 489rwt.
the11.94 run was on a full slick at 9psi and the stock inj. and pump couldn't keep up cutting in and out.you are good 86brick you got it on the money, you no nos when you hear a story and see numbers.
now my one power adder is??? you are good it is nos and numbers are 387rwh and 489rwt.
the11.94 run was on a full slick at 9psi and the stock inj. and pump couldn't keep up cutting in and out.you are good 86brick you got it on the money, you no nos when you hear a story and see numbers.
Yeah most LS1 guys I know are using the dry system cause using the wet system with the stock plastic intake is NOT a good idea unless you like blowing up intakes
A friend of mine who has a '99 A4 WS6 T/A with all the bolt-ons (MTI airlid, long tube headers, exhaust, upgraded fuel pump, larger injectors, 3.73 gears, 3500 stall Yank converter, hypertech programmer, LS6 intake, etc.) and he had a 150 wet shot and was running 11.30's @124mph with a 1.68 60' on E/T Streets and after about 10 passes with the TNT F-1 wet kit he blew off the intake and now he has a steel intake.... The plastic intake gets cooler faster, but if you want to run a wet system with a bigger shot (150-200hp) of the juice you are better of with the steel intake and as far as the rearend is concerned my friend has a Moser 12-bolt w/ 3.73 gears, 33-spline axles, and a TA cover cause his rearend went only 3 months after having the car when it was running high 12's on Nitto DRs with 1.9 60's....
A friend of mine who has a '99 A4 WS6 T/A with all the bolt-ons (MTI airlid, long tube headers, exhaust, upgraded fuel pump, larger injectors, 3.73 gears, 3500 stall Yank converter, hypertech programmer, LS6 intake, etc.) and he had a 150 wet shot and was running 11.30's @124mph with a 1.68 60' on E/T Streets and after about 10 passes with the TNT F-1 wet kit he blew off the intake and now he has a steel intake.... The plastic intake gets cooler faster, but if you want to run a wet system with a bigger shot (150-200hp) of the juice you are better of with the steel intake and as far as the rearend is concerned my friend has a Moser 12-bolt w/ 3.73 gears, 33-spline axles, and a TA cover cause his rearend went only 3 months after having the car when it was running high 12's on Nitto DRs with 1.9 60's....the car has a little over 19,000 miles on it and I can say gm made a big mistake dropping the f body from the lineup.
best et off of nos is 12.80.
also I have a stock 86 grand national, I WOULD LIKE TO get in the 11 second range,any ideas would be great.
best et off of nos is 12.80.
also I have a stock 86 grand national, I WOULD LIKE TO get in the 11 second range,any ideas would be great.
GN and Sho's
New Member
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2001
- Messages
- 30
Still waiting to hear if you want to prove it at the track next weekend?
Would like to run in the 11 second range....
Turborod, it really depends on how far you want to go into the 11's and how much you want to spend.... To go high to mid 11's there are a good amount of guys that go with a TE-44 or TA-49 turbo, 009s (42.5lb) or 50lb injectors, 3" THDP, 2 1/2" or 3" exhaust, a K&N w/ a cold air setup, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, single 340 or 307 Walbro fuel pump, a good custom burned chip from Jim Testa, Red Armstrong @ Quad Air Inc, Jay Carter or PTE, airbags and the normal little minor suspension mods, some MT E/T Streets or E/T Drags slicks and most importantly a scan tool like a Scan Master.... There are other little things you will need like gauges and you could also go with a slightly bigger converter (2800-3000 stall) and an upgraded intercooler like a stock location V4 21 row from CAS or a front mount IC like the one PTE sells, but the stock intercooler and D5 converter will work fine and you can also get some other little things that will help (they are not needed to run in the 11's, but every little bit helps) like a power plate from RJC (Race Jace) or a ported 62-65mm TB from Jay Jackson.... I suggest you check out the recipe page from www.gnttype.org (just do a search on "recipe page" when you get to the site or better yet post a thread in the General Tech section on this site asking about what you will need to run in the 11's cause there are plenty of guys who will be more than happy to list their combos and what works for them.... One thing to keep in mind is higher octane race gas is needed to run in the 11's, but for the street if you'd like to run more than 15-16lbs of boost without knock on pump gas there is Alcohol injection which can allow you to run 4-7lbs of boost more than what you could run on pump gas without alky injection cause I have an alky injection kit from SMC and am running 21lbs of boost without knock on 93 octane pump gas and you can run like this at the track, but IMHO higher octane race gas like VP Racing C16 (117 octane race gas), which sells for $7.50 a gallon, is needed just to be on the safe side when you are running higher than 15lbs of boost at the track trying to get the best times from your TR....
HTH and like I said post a thread and start doing your homework (research) on what works and what does not cause it will safe you a LOT of money and headaches
Turborod, it really depends on how far you want to go into the 11's and how much you want to spend.... To go high to mid 11's there are a good amount of guys that go with a TE-44 or TA-49 turbo, 009s (42.5lb) or 50lb injectors, 3" THDP, 2 1/2" or 3" exhaust, a K&N w/ a cold air setup, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, single 340 or 307 Walbro fuel pump, a good custom burned chip from Jim Testa, Red Armstrong @ Quad Air Inc, Jay Carter or PTE, airbags and the normal little minor suspension mods, some MT E/T Streets or E/T Drags slicks and most importantly a scan tool like a Scan Master.... There are other little things you will need like gauges and you could also go with a slightly bigger converter (2800-3000 stall) and an upgraded intercooler like a stock location V4 21 row from CAS or a front mount IC like the one PTE sells, but the stock intercooler and D5 converter will work fine and you can also get some other little things that will help (they are not needed to run in the 11's, but every little bit helps) like a power plate from RJC (Race Jace) or a ported 62-65mm TB from Jay Jackson.... I suggest you check out the recipe page from www.gnttype.org (just do a search on "recipe page" when you get to the site or better yet post a thread in the General Tech section on this site asking about what you will need to run in the 11's cause there are plenty of guys who will be more than happy to list their combos and what works for them.... One thing to keep in mind is higher octane race gas is needed to run in the 11's, but for the street if you'd like to run more than 15-16lbs of boost without knock on pump gas there is Alcohol injection which can allow you to run 4-7lbs of boost more than what you could run on pump gas without alky injection cause I have an alky injection kit from SMC and am running 21lbs of boost without knock on 93 octane pump gas and you can run like this at the track, but IMHO higher octane race gas like VP Racing C16 (117 octane race gas), which sells for $7.50 a gallon
, is needed just to be on the safe side when you are running higher than 15lbs of boost at the track trying to get the best times from your TR....HTH and like I said post a thread and start doing your homework (research) on what works and what does not cause it will safe you a LOT of money and headaches
Similar threads
