Question for those running Cometic C5697-188 MLS Valve Cover Gskts

[1KWIKSIX]

Noticed that these are very stiff & quite thick at .188" vs standard FelPro Cork gaskets @ .125" thk.
Apparently these don't require re-torquing, unlike cork gaskets.

One side of the cometic valve cover gasket is smooth, whereas the other side is rougher.
Can anyone tell me which side is recommend up (facing valve cover) or down (facing cylinder head)?
I'm running factory steel 8445 heads which have a rough (cast) finish at sealing area.

Guess the installed torque is the factory recommended 44 inch / pounds?

thanks

dave

 

[Mike T]

Your post says MLS so I don't know if this helps. Mine were the fibrous type and they were installed printed side down. On mine the printed side appears to be the rougher of the two. I don't think It was said to install them this way.. it just looked as if that side may seal (conform) against the cast better.

Mine hit the push rods so they had to be cut with a dremel to clear. This was 5 or 6 years ago so they could have changed this by now.

Others may have had better results but In the end I changed over to the RJC rubber type because the cometics always seeped a little on my car.

 

[pacecarta]

shouldnt matter but because its so tough to avoid header or intake issues where the old cork would just bend the cometic would move in so i cut the tabs off, clearance for the pushrods if needed also watch on champion irons there may be a step where the bolts go and the gasket could ride on that youll need to cut the inside edge off the gasket by the bolt holes . i use a small whizzer wheel for the cutting

 

[earlbrown]

on your smoothy .vs rough question. I would glue the smooth to the smooth valve cover, then let the roughs mesh with each other.


Can't help you on the rest as I've never used cometic VC gaskets. I've been running the same pair ofplain ole FelPro corks for 18 years leak free.