questions on running 11's

[BADINBLACK6]

My friend just bought a stock 87 gn, the only thing he has done to it is is a jay carter street 93 chip and k&n filter. He wants to run 11's with the car. Someone he knows gave him a list of stuff he would need to do it and I wanted to run the list by you guys first. I just want to know if he needs all this stuff or if he could do it differently.


john craig TE 44 63 exh. housing
340 walbro pump hot wired
adj fuel reg.
better down pipe
009's
max effort chip
magnacore wires
kyb shocks
nitto drag radials 275/50/15

And one last question could someone look at my signature and tell me what #'s I should expect with my setup if I used slicks? TIA

 

[UNGN]

You don't really need 009's, a max effort, the magnacore wires or the KYB shocks. ($600 in parts)

instead, I'd substitute a right side airbag, 36# Bluetops, Thrasher 108 and a big neck on the stock intercooler ($450 in parts), and substitute 275/60 BFGDR's (instead of the 275/50 nittos). Also remeber that a down pipe is only as good as the exhaust behind it. A dump is a good option at the track.

Following the recipes on GNTtype.org and with those mods and tuning, I've hit a best of 11.53@118 at 23 psi of boost using 114 race gas.

009's and a max effort are good to have to run quicker than mid 11's (but you also will need a roll bar and a whole lot of other safety stuff by then, too)

 

[BADINBLACK6]

UNGN, With the bigger turbo will he have to get a higher stall torque converter?

 

[TRBON8R]

UNGN,

Why the 60 series BFG drags instead of the Nittos? I'm running the 275-50-15 Nittos right now. Just curious.

 

[WarpSpeed]

I'd say the '44 turbo should work OK with the stock convertor.

 

[Intercooler]

Originally posted by TRBON8R
UNGN,

Why the 60 series BFG drags instead of the Nittos? I'm running the 275-50-15 Nittos right now. Just curious.

I think it is height related besides maybe price.

 

[UNGN]

Originally posted by TRBON8R
UNGN,

Why the 60 series BFG drags instead of the Nittos? I'm running the 275-50-15 Nittos right now. Just curious.

Without going into the motor and porting the heads or adding a cam, the stock motor won't pull much over 5K and HP falls off dramatically.

Nittos are only 25.75" tall when new so about 107 mph = 5K RPM even with the Converter locked. You would need VERY high boost and to run the motor to 5.5K to see 115 mph need for mid 11's. By going to 28" tall 275/60's, you get 7%-8% more mph for the same RPM and it is actually easier for a TR to pull a big tire on the big end of the track than it is trying to pull a small one (because of its low HP peak).

Nittos will artificially limit an 11 second combo (until they make 275/60's)

 

[azgn]

it would be easier still with a tire like ET Streets or Hoosier QT Pros....launching effectively on drag radials in a TR is an art...we don't want to forget good race gas also

 

[tim87tr]

My Turbo T, see sig, is mostly stock. My goal is a low 12, high 11, without going over 112 mph (for safety due to the stock injectors). That means a good launch also. To learn more about your mostly stock car, getting a good tune before adding parts, and maxing out the stock combo first might be something to consider. I am relatively new to the cars, but do see many unhappy campers when performance parts are added quickly and results are not achieved. Here is some great advice from UNGN to consider for anyone wanting to max out a stock combo.

>Stock longblock, with some upper intake plenum cover blending (radiusing the short side into the manifold from the TB) and 160 degree thermostat
>Stock exhaust manifolds cleaned up slightly with a dremel.
>Intercooler necks blended
>Turbo compressor housing and inlet bell smoothed and blended and all hoses aligned.
>Terry Houston downpipe with a dump (a good exhaust would work, too).
>Hot wired Walbo 340 with neck downs in hardlines opened.
>Tires: 275/60 BFGDR's on stock T wheels @ 18 psi
>Right side airbag at 25 psi
>Chip T108 with TCC lockup
>Adjustable FP regulator. Fp would end up around 47 psi I'm guessing
>Big wheel cylinders in back
>Remove front swaybar and loosen front upper control arms bolts
>9" K&N cone filter with a 3.5" neck with a smooth bellmouth to 3"
>Stock MAF with one screen removed or an LT1 3" with translator and no screens, flowpath blended smooth.
>Transmission would have a shift kit
>Boost would be set between 20-24 psi
>114 min octane gas, 5 gallons max in the tank
>smaller than stock sized front tires (195-205's) at 45 psi

There are probably a few other things I'm forgetting, hopefully nothing major.

Before the run, I'd cool everything to the touch and spray the intercooler with cold water from a hudson sprayer. and warm the motor up to about 155 degrees before doing the burnout. I'd leave on as much boost as the brakes and tires will allow, probably around 10 psi.

The weak link in the chain above is the stock injectors. Around 112 mph, they become dicey and could result in a blown head gasket. The 275/60 tires and locking the converter will help by keeping the rpms down, but running if it ran faster than 112, I'd upgrade to bluetops. 112 is enough mph to run 11.9's though.

Things that would make 11's easier are a big neck on the stock intercooler. It would be worth around .05-.1 and 1 mph, tuned out. Sustituting a ported elbow for the THDP will cost around .05-.10 and about 1 mph.

*Some other advice from UNGN to make running an 11 a bit easier on a few upgraded parts.

A TA49 will easily go 11's with a stock motor and 36# and bigger injectors. A TA49 and stock injectors is asking for a blown head gaket, though. At 22 psi it just flows too much air for the fuel system to keep up.

The 49 is a great turbo, though and I recommend it to anyone wanting to run 11's with a stock combination.

Hope this helps