Quick Time 9"...

Hey Allen,
Use a countersink in a drill motor, and add about a 0.05 champher on the gasket side of your NODULAR HOUSING. This will allow a space for the displaced material to pull into when tightened. If you file it away, it just becomes thinner and will prob do the same thing. You could cheat and install set screws with washers and nuts instead of the ARP studs, but you would have to epoxy them into place. The washer would provide greater surface to displace the torque applied when tightening. The mounting surface must be too thin to start with .
Give me a call if you need and we can hash out different thoughts.
Good luck.
Coach,
That is a good suggestion and I will probably do that as well. The displaced material on the housing appears to be from the hole size being to small and looks like the studs were forcefully pulled through. Don't think it was caused by the flange being to thin and normal torqing.
AG.
 
So, do you pull the studs in with some washers and a nut?
Seems the flange isn't very thick to have it distort like that from the stud. Or maybe as above the hole isn't the right size for the stud.
Looks like a cool piece.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
The flange on this hsg is the best part of 1/4" thick. I can measure if anyone is interested.
 
Sounds kinda thin but I'm no engineer.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
So, do you pull the studs in with some washers and a nut?
Seems the flange isn't very thick to have it distort like that from the stud. Or maybe as above the hole isn't the right size for the stud.
Looks like a cool piece.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

I'm going to make a tall aluminum spacer to draw the stud as straight as possible. The material is being displaced by the stud knurl and excessive interference fit. I don't believe the flange is bending or warping.

AG.
 
The flange on this hsg is the best part of 1/4" thick. I can measure if anyone is interested.
I just got mine back from being painted. My flange thickness was .312". I would be willing to bet they don't vary to much because they don't seem to offer many choices for aftermarket studs.
AG.
 
I used this spacer to pull the studs through.
069.JPG
070.JPG
 
Inspect the backside of every stud before and after installation for possible weld spatter that may keep the stud sitting flat. On this one, there was weld in close proximity so I filed a flat on the stud flange for clearance.
AG.
064.JPG
066.JPG
 
Update...
Finally feel well enuf to take a shot at setting up the 9".
Using the stock control arms, we put the hsg under the car. All went well...........Until I tried to put the pass side lower bolt in. Seems that the holes in the brkt are off about 1/2 hole.
We haven't tried the new Spohn arms w/ the "heim"joints at 1 end. Going to try them next, B4 I have to get "creative"...:rolleyes:
 
Top