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Real fast cars w/ stock cams???

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ross87t

Member
Joined
May 29, 2001
Messages
887
What are all bolt-on stock cammed Buicks running?

If I go w/ the following setup, will the stock cam rob a lot of hp?

T63e
Champ. ported irons w/ matched intake
V4
Vig. 3200
55's

My car has a tad over 50,000 miles, and I am a little worried about going into the motor, considering it is pretty much a mint T. I'll probably never sell this car, so should I just go ahead and throw in a 206/206 cam?

I am wanting 120mph+ trap speeds without having to run over 25psi.

Ross
 
you may get those speeds with a stock cam and your setup.....it would be easier with a cam (you will run out of rpm in 3rd gear and may have to use OD)

in any case, don't use a flat tappet....get a good billet roller

if you can lock your converter, that will help (with my Vig locked, I go thru at 51-5200 at 120+.......27" tire)
 
What do you consider real fast? I ran 11.38 @ 117 so I gues that would be kinda fast, or somewhat fast, but I don't know if it is real fast . If you are going so far as to put heads on it you might as well put a cam in there too. a 206 or 208 is probably a good choice.
 
Thanks guys. I consider 120mph+ trap speeds "real fast".(for a street car that is.)

Any other opinions are welcomed.

Ross
 
With those heads you'll be wasting HP and $$$ not going to a larger cam to compliment the other "go faster" parts your putting on. The OE cam just does not have enough lift or duration to make the heads and turbo do their job effectively. I used a run a combo close to that and used a 218-218 with great results! HTH
 
see mph in sig 121 with a 49 turbo ..;) 22# boost

127 mph at 24# with 70 turbo.

my heads dont flow nothing close to champions
 
The stock cam is fine if you dont feel like going into the motor and changing the cam&lifters,a set of t&d 1.65 roller rockers will make it feel like you did change the cam.I have hit over 125mph w/t an untouched factory longblock! w/t the roller rockers,heads and intake you will be more than able to achieve 130mph in the 1/4 and make enough power to blow out the bottom end! so do you need a cam change?... not really. especially with a stock bottom end. FWIW 130 in the 1/4 takes about 600fwhp in a 3500# TR. stock bottom ends start to go around 550.
 
IMO, the stock cam works great and I am very reluctant to try an after-market. Per my sig and web site, the stock cam has performed quite well! Thats 10.95 with the stock cam and very similar combo to yours..............

Hank
 
Originally posted by LikeMy6
FWIW 130 in the 1/4 takes about 600fwhp in a 3500# TR. stock bottom ends start to go around 550.

Yeah. That's what I hear. I plan on upgrading to a better set of mains, and a girdle. Oh hell! I might as well throw a cam in there if I am planning the rest of these mods.

My goal here is to have a dependable high 10 sec. car which is very driveable on the street. I'm also wanting high mph trap speeds, so I won't have to worry about most of these dang nitroused LS1 cars.

Ross
 
The block girdle and billet caps are not a bad idea at all. I also had these parts in my previous motor and am certain they are responsible for the motor's longevity. I agree with the other posts that a OE cam will get you in the 10's...I've seen it done many times. However, a larger cam (not too large though) will help you get there easier. I ran high tens at 125 mph on my old combo with a
63-1, 218-218 cam, MSD 50's, OE ECM, FMIC, and a lock up converter.....nothing too roudy and very streetable (22 mpg) in the heat!
 
Ross, if you would like a good way to guage a street cars performance find out what it runs in the 1/8mi. because most races on the street are done by this distance. w/t my stock longblock I am seeing 98-100mph+ in the 1/8 these days. and just for kicks I used a g-tech pro on the street w/t slicks and was able to hit 0-60 in 3.2 sec. the little meter is pretty fun and seems to be fairly accurate. but all this was done on the stock cam my best time in the 1/4 so far is 10.73@126 pushing 30# of boost tho. those stock gaskets must have the heads glued to the block, since they havent been seperated in 15 years!:D
 
Ya gotta love the factory headbolt clamping process, seems that once you break the seal, your forever changing headgaskets:(
 
Originally posted by turbov6joe
Ya gotta love the factory headbolt clamping process, seems that once you break the seal, your forever changing headgaskets:(
All in the install. Poor install makes for poor results. In 10 years of TR wrenching never a gasket failure or leak:D
 
I agree that the the factory seal is probably the best if it has never been compromised but with proper torque and re-torque it should be fine.. Doug J held 32psi on his last rebuild (turbo, cam, ported heads, etc) by accident w/o hurting the gaskets so obviously they can hold.

They way I look at it is that I won't pull the heads unless I feel I need to but I will also take extra care to make sure I get the new gaskets to seal good. Research it and you'll be fine..

ks;)
 
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