rear disc brake upgrade

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paradigm

Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2025
Messages
41
Can anyone suggest a cost effective rear disc brake upgrade setup? I am thinking about going with the LS1 rear brakes from a 98-02 F-Body however those would need 16" or larger wheels to clear.

I see there are S10 / 3rd gen F body rear disc g body conversions on ebay, however I am not sure if that will fit the 8.5" 10 bolt rear end of the GN?

I am ordering a set of new stainless lines for a regular regal as my car has been vacuum booster swapped with an LS motor.
 
Go to 2 G body forum. That kinda talk was just happenin now.
IBBY
 
Go to 2 G body forum. That kinda talk was just happenin now.
IBBY
Yes I am on that thread haha.

My 87 GN brakes look shot and I am going to replace the fronts and rears.

For the fronts I am thinking to change the spindle to the 2WD 98-02 Blazer and hub. Either I can attach the blazer caliper, or C5 caliper with a bracket. How do you attach the 98-02 Camaro LS1 front caliper? Is there a bracket sold to attach it straight to the blazer spindle or can I even attach it to the original G Body spindle?

For the rear disc brake conversion, what are the thoughts on the ebay kits or inline tube kit (these seem to either utilize a very old 79 caddilac rear caliper, S10 rear caliper, 3rd gen F Body caliper, etc.), or going with either 98-02 blazer, camaro LS1 or c5? If going blazer, should I also be getting 98-02 2WD blazer rear calipers or AWD?

The more I am reading, the more I am thinking that the blazer setup may be all I need, however there are some local folks selling the C5 and LS1 F body calipers for cheap.
 
It's a slippery slope.

Any disc conversion for the rear that doesn't include getting rid of the C-clips will result in a system that's inconsistent. Knockback is real. It can cause a crash.

So, if you're not ready to go all the way to C-clip eliminators or a full floater, keep the drums.
 
Yes I am on that thread haha.

My 87 GN brakes look shot and I am going to replace the fronts and rears.

For the fronts I am thinking to change the spindle to the 2WD 98-02 Blazer and hub. Either I can attach the blazer caliper, or C5 caliper with a bracket. How do you attach the 98-02 Camaro LS1 front caliper? Is there a bracket sold to attach it straight to the blazer spindle or can I even attach it to the original G Body spindle?

For the rear disc brake conversion, what are the thoughts on the ebay kits or inline tube kit (these seem to either utilize a very old 79 caddilac rear caliper, S10 rear caliper, 3rd gen F Body caliper, etc.), or going with either 98-02 blazer, camaro LS1 or c5? If going blazer, should I also be getting 98-02 2WD blazer rear calipers or AWD?

The more I am reading, the more I am thinking that the blazer setup may be all I need, however there are some local folks selling the C5 and LS1 F body calipers for cheap.
I have done the front brakes with the Blazer setup...very easy, and stops the car quick. I have the inline tube rear brake setup on both my GN and 69 442. Very good investment.....and you get to retain the C-clips setup. Make sure you replace the factory prop valve from the disc/drum to the disc/disc.

Good luck with whichever you decide to do.
 
I did the 98 s10 blazer 4dr 2wd brake swap 10 yrs ago,didnt change the prop valve left stock one in it,have 30 spline axels and c clips still,no problems, last year converted to hydroboost, awsome brakes and holding power under boost,havent hooked up parking brake cables but think 1996 impalas ss rear cables should work, have done some panic stops from 130mph,car very stable,good luck
 
I put the Right stuff kit AFXRD78Z from summit racing back in 2020 They were a lot cheaper than today.
Installed new axles and bearings at the same time and new proportioning valve for Disc rear brakes.
Zero issues with this setup.
pictures are on the 2020 thread Rear Disc Brakes.
 
I decided to add my experience with the SSBC rear disc conversion kit I installed in 1991.
It’s not cost effective so I didn’t comment earlier.


At the time I was concerned with returning to the factory 15” GN wheels and bought this kit.

Pros:
It will fit with the stock 15” GN wheels.
(The stock 15” GN wheels are reverse mount and have the smaller dia. on the inside of the wheel where as the T-type wheels are front mount and have more room on the backside).

The calipers (‘87- ‘93 mustang/ cougar with E-brake) clear the wheels by 1/8” except where the weld on the wheels overlap, clears by only 1/16”.

No modifications to axle flanges or housing are required.

Can be installed without removing axles if you cut the old backing plate off.

Cons:
Must retain stock ride height so the caliper don’t hit the frame. They still hit with two adults in the back seat.

Replacement rotors are only available from SSBC. (‘86 corvette front rotors are turned down to 11”. The backside of the hat is machined larger to fit flat on the axle flange.

They didn’t come with longer E-brake cables or brackets to hold the stock E-brake cables. I think the stock E-brake cables could be loosened and brackets added to work.

They won’t work with C-clip eliminators as they mount to the outside of the backing plate flange.

Overview:
Overall the assembly was easy and straightforward.
I was impatient and didn’t take the time to get the E-brakes working.

The directions didn’t say anything about changing the proportioning valve to disc/disc. I didn’t know any better so it stayed.

My car had less than 30k miles at the time. I assume the C-clips were fairly tight as I didn’t notice any brake pad knock back, but that was probably due to retaining the disc/ drum proportioning valve.

There was no improvement in braking power, but they looked real cool and I had “rear disc brakes”!! lol.

I have since changed to a generic 11.63” (‘96 Camaro rotor) and ‘77- ‘82 Eldorado/ Seville caliper kit from Speedway Motors that mounts to the inside of the backing plate flange to work with C-clip eliminators.


I had to make new caliper brackets to rotate them down away from the frame for clearance.
It doesn’t come with E-brake cables, SS braided caliper hoses or rotor options, but is cost effective if you don’t mind making new brackets and running at least 16” wheels.
 
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