Rear disc brakes

[Vette310]

Looking for a rear disc brake kit
That will work with the stock 15inch rims
Any help would be appreciated.

 

[conn84gn]

I'm in the process of installing Right stuff kit AFXRD78Z summit racing
These are the RED powder coated ones
Still need to do the other side and hookup the lines and E Brake
It comes real close to my QA1 setup

 

[Vette310]

Looks good, I was looking at the inline tube conversion for $434 shipped. If you don’t mine me asking what did the kit run you? Will the stock GN 15 inch rim still work with that kit ?

 

[conn84gn]

Stock 15" wheels will fit. The regular price is $594.00
I bought them on sale I think is was $550.00
The Inline kit is similar No E Brake, Slotted Rotors, Red Powder coat

 

[Vette310]

Nice thanks for the feedback let me know how you like them, How was the install?
I’m going to order my kit this week!

Stock 15" wheels will fit. The regular price is $594.00
I bought them on sale I think is was $550.00
The Inline kit is similar No E Brake, Slotted Rotors, Red Powder coat

 

[6Packer]

conn84gn, do you have to pull the axles to install that kit???.....just curious, looked at that kit some time ago

 

[conn84gn]

Yes had to pull the axles that was simple part
Removing the old dust plate and rear brake piston was PITA
The install was easy and decided to install new Mosser axles and new bearing and seals
Still need to do the E Brake but want to do it on a lift
Road tested and very happy
What I like about this kit was it holds the axle in so no C Clip eliminator

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

Yes had to pull the axles that was simple part
Removing the old dust plate and rear brake piston was PITA
The install was easy and decided to install new Mosser axles and new bearing and seals
Still need to do the E Brake but want to do it on a lift
Road tested and very happy
What I like about this kit was it holds the axle in so no C Clip eliminator

How is the frame clearance? What is your spring rate in the rear? Are you lowered?

There are some out there that say “for stock height vehicles only”. Just curious.

Thank you for the informative post.

 

[6Packer]

Thanks. pics look good !! good idea on the new axles, seals and bearings too! may have to get off my wallet when I get back to work after this covid19 crap !!

 

[6Packer]

I assume you need to replace the proportioning valve from disc/drum to disc/disc also ??

 

[Turbo6inKY]

How is the frame clearance? What is your spring rate in the rear? Are you lowered?

There are some out there that say “for stock height vehicles only”. Just curious.

Thank you for the informative post.

With the e-brake equipped calipers, the ebrake mechanism can contact the frame if you're lowered. Mine did when I tried those calipers with a similar kit. It'll depend on where the brackets clock the caliper and your springs. I had to swap out to non-ebrake calipers. Wilwood has a nice set that's a direct replacement for the calipers in the kit (Wilwood par number 120-9333).

Also, the knockback without C-clip eliminators is horrible. Be prepared to go for the pedal and have to pump it a few times to stop the car after going over something bumpy or an aggressive lateral maneuver. If you go for C-Clip eliminators, get the ones with the tapered bearings.

 

[Turbo6inKY]

I assume you need to replace the proportioning valve from disc/drum to disc/disc also ??

For maximum performance, yes. They'll work with the stock prop valve, but it limits pressure to the back far more than necessary for disc, and it has a residual pressure function that's normally there to resist the springs in the drum assembly from pulling the shoes off the drum surface that'll cause the rear pads to drag a bit. Not much, you'll still be able to turn the wheels by hand, but it'll be there.

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

With the e-brake equipped calipers, the ebrake mechanism can contact the frame if you're lowered. Mine did when I tried those calipers with a similar kit. It'll depend on where the brackets clock the caliper and your springs. I had to swap out to non-ebrake calipers. Wilwood has a nice set that's a direct replacement for the calipers in the kit (Wilwood par number 120-9333).

Also, the knockback without C-clip eliminators is horrible. Be prepared to go for the pedal and have to pump it a few times to stop the car after going over something bumpy or an aggressive lateral maneuver. If you go for C-Clip eliminators, get the ones with the tapered bearings.

I believe these are the C-clip Eliminators you’re referring to.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/str-a1033

 

[conn84gn]

I did not replace the proportioning valve but my 84 has hydroboost.
I'm looking at rebuilding and modifying it in the future to control pressure
I ordered 200 lbs springs but they were marked 220 lb but I like them

 

[conn84gn]

Have not had the issue with the pedal My Hydroboost looks different than yours

 

[conn84gn]

My fender well is height 26" front and 27" back with 26" tall tires
UMI all the way around QA1 coilover 550 front 220? rear

 

[conn84gn]

This Kit also moves the spacing out 1/8" both sides which was great since I'm now running 275/40/17 rear
I believe they are 10.1" wide so I have 3/8" clearance by the frame no rub so far

 

[conn84gn]

This was with stock drums and Nitto 275/50/15
Need to take pictures for the 275/40/17 M&H drags

 

[Turbo6inKY]

I believe these are the C-clip Eliminators you’re referring to.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/str-a1033

Those are they.

Word of warning: They will leak eventually. You can take them apart easily enough, clean up the gaskets and put them back together if they leak out of the blocks.

But if the axle seal starts leaking, you're off to the machine shop to press off the bearings. Which means replacing them. I found out it was way easier and only slightly more expensive to buy an entire new kit than try to source the bearings and seals alone. The aluminum blocks are the cheapest part of the kit.

 

[conn84gn]

That's why I didn't want to go the C-clip Eliminator route
They state race