Rear main seal Experts: Side seal question

[tim87tr]

I just reinstalled the rear main seal. The original had been replaced just a few thousand miles ago with the neoprene one by the previous owner (actually I think hired out). I believe that the bad leak may have resulted from silicone used on the rear main seals themselves or the stock side seals?(black) being reused in the previous repair.

My question is the side seals. I installed are the white ones that expand when in contact with oil. I opted to use these instead of RTV in the side channels, although I did place the RTV along the vertical cap sides/block mating surface. But not in the side grooves. The side seals stick out a quarter inch into the pan area and it says not to cut them off. I will have to since they would hit the pan. I knew they were longer than the cap before I installed them. Maybe this is a universal kit and works that way with other 3.8's. But has anyone had any experience with these longer seals?

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Rear sealz

You have to cut the seals flush w/ the block, or as you alredy said, the pan will not seal. I believe the directions tell you to wet them in engine oil, slide them into the slots and then torque the cap bolts? The excess HAS to get gone once this is done.
I also use a slight offset of about 1/8" on the seals themselves so the parting line of the seal is not in the same plane as the cap parting line. I use a VERY small smear on the ENDS of the seals.
HTH,

 

[tim87tr]

Thanks Chuck, I just needed some reassurance. I didn't put any RTV on the ends of the rubber seals, but I did offset them about an eighth of an inch so they didn't line up with the cap/block mating surface. Do you think it is worth pulling it off, recleaning and adding that small amount of RTV on the seal ends?

I did dip the seals in oil as per the instructions, but after the cap was torqued. It did say to install after it was in place, but didn't say anything about it being torqued first. Hope that works too. Also added some RTV to the vertical cap/block sealing area, facing the engine, oil side.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Side sealz??

Tim, did you measure the seals as a comparison to the length of the slot in the cap?? 1/4" too long seems like alot left over!! Are you SURE they are all the way down in the slots and are sealing at the block surface??

As for the sealer on the ends.. Nope. Don't pull it back out if you did the offset. That should be enough.
What kind of pan gasket did you use??

 

[tim87tr]

Yea, I placed the side seals in there dry when the cap was out and know that a quarter inch, maybe a little less, would stick out. Plus I hammered them in with a rubber mallet after I used that on the rear main cap and torqued it down. So yes, that's one thing I am sure about .

As for the gasket, gonna get a rubber one. Used that on the other car and it worked good.

 

[gofstbuick]

I used an anaerobic sealant on the mating face if the main cap and (a small dot) in the corner of the block on each side of the side seal. This is the GM recommended application, because the sealant cures in the absence of air. The stuff is kinda expensive though, $6 for 2/10 of an ounce.

 

[motorhead]

I am glad that I am not the only one who hammered in the side seals

 

[tim87tr]

Originally posted by Mr. T
I am glad that I am not the only one who hammered in the side seals

So does it leak? I just soaked them in a little oil and tapped them in. It said to install after the cap was in, so you could not just push them in. I'm getting my header welded in the next couple days, so maybe by the end of the week, I will be back running.

 

[tc86gn]

where can I get a set of these side seals. Do you have a pn#?
TIA

 

[tim87tr]

Originally posted by tc86gn
where can I get a set of these side seals. Do you have a pn#?
TIA

The box I have is a CarQuest gaskets pn # JV742R. It came with the rear main black rubber seals and the white fiber type side seals that you dip in oil and install into the torqued main cap.

 

[tc86gn]

Thank you,
Tom

 

[tim87tr]

Chuck, just a thanks and update to let you know everything worked out, for now . I took the T out for a spin and the rear main is holding ok, no leaks yet, yet, yet . I thought the PS valve cover was leaking but traced that mess to the oil fitting/ brass housing for the electric oil gauge down by the turbo oil feed line. Had to take the oil filter off and it was still hard to wrench on. The bolt (with the dome and wire on top) was very loose and needed tightened. Maybe going to run it on the 1320 this weekend and wanting to see a high 12. I have only ran it once before, 4 passes. Maybe the new BFGs will hook up to get a good et