Rear seat braces
- Thread starter IrvJr
- Start date
How much psi are you running in the airbags? Are you running equal pressure in both bags ( teed together) or are you running each one separate with more pressure in the passenger side than the driver side?
I would try running higher pressure in the pass side and see if that changes anything. I could be wrong but I was under the opinion that more pressure in the pass side was neccesary.
HTH,
Ryan
I would try running higher pressure in the pass side and see if that changes anything. I could be wrong but I was under the opinion that more pressure in the pass side was neccesary.
HTH,
Ryan
Hey Scott,
I just bought, and measured out my conduit today. Going to cut the pieces tomorrow. Since you've just done this project, my questions to you are the following:
Which lengths go where? Maybe take that picture someone posted to MS paint, and mark the 24" and the 26" lengths?
Since I cannot see behind the speakers in that picture, where are the tops bolted to? Pre-existing holes? Or do I have to drill somewhere up there in that tight space?
Also, as far as flattening the ends,.. about how far down on each end? Maybe even where you drilled the holes, but thats getting real deep. Your instruction is appreciated.
TIA
I just bought, and measured out my conduit today. Going to cut the pieces tomorrow. Since you've just done this project, my questions to you are the following:
Which lengths go where? Maybe take that picture someone posted to MS paint, and mark the 24" and the 26" lengths?
Since I cannot see behind the speakers in that picture, where are the tops bolted to? Pre-existing holes? Or do I have to drill somewhere up there in that tight space?
Also, as far as flattening the ends,.. about how far down on each end? Maybe even where you drilled the holes, but thats getting real deep. Your instruction is appreciated.
TIA
IrvJr
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
The area you are criss crossing is not square. One corner actually curves towards the inside of the car to go around the wheel wells. Thats where you get the shorter length from. Its from the top center bolt holes to the lower outside bolt holes. What i did was pick the best spot for the holes and drilled them out, then cut my pieces to fit. Then after i got the length i needed, i drilled the holes in the conduit. On a couple pieces you need to flatten up a couple inches to clear some of the existing body supports. Also, when you flatten the ends you will notice that one side of the conduit will be flat and you will have a dip on the other side. I put one side in and on the other criss crossing member i reversed it so they would barely touch. I know im not explaining it right, someone help me out here.
Scott
Scott
L
LeesGN
Guest
My high mileage somewhat rusty T-top car squeaked and rattled so bad it was borderline embarassing to drive around with people in the car prior to the braces. I could not believe the difference. The car feels waaaay more stiff and the car won't squeak unless i nail a really big bump or something of that nature.
I can't really say if it helped my 60's or not. I went from a 1.98 60' to a 1.88 changing to boxed lowers and the braces at the same time, but everything else was identical in the two runs.
I can't really say if it helped my 60's or not. I went from a 1.98 60' to a 1.88 changing to boxed lowers and the braces at the same time, but everything else was identical in the two runs.
fireberd350
Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2002
i cut all four pieces @ 26" on mine and whatever i had extra on each piece i sort of cut two angles to make a point which made it squared when installed...that sounds confusing but just cut 4 pieces 26" and your going to need to flatten a good amount of the end to clear the trunk springs at the top if your using 3/4" conduit....i spent an entire day on this job...heres my advice
1.goto home depot and get 10' 3/4" conduit, (6) 3/8x1_1/2" bolts, (6) 3/8 nylock nuts, (6) washers, and i bought some drill bits as well and a new hacksaw blade....
2. it was impossible to do the job w/o removing the back seats...i can't see it being done....i tried b/c im lazy but gave in and took them out...just make sure your have a torx #45 to remove the seatbelt/backseat bolts...i didnt
3. i drilled the 6 holes before jacking the car up
4. i then flattened the ends of the pipes about an inch for some test fitting....i later had to flatten them more to clear the trunk springs...
5. i then bent the pipes the best i could to make them roughly fit the way i liked...i used a pipe bender(borrowed)
6. jacked the entire car up...i didnt know only the rear needed to be up and i have a rock driveway so it probably was more level on the ground
7. got a ruff idea of were to put the holes and drilled one at a time put the bolt through it in the car then marked where to drill the other hole...
8. repeat steps for all pieces and to save time start with the straight pieces and do the bent pieces last which i did not do and made more work...then i installed them w/o washers so dont forget the washers either...now your seeing why this took all day
9. tighten the b!tches up and clean up and lower the car...by now your prolly so fed up with this job your saying "i swear if i hear one more squeek after all this work im drivin off a cliff"
10. admire your work of art
Here's My Install...warning: BIG pic
1.goto home depot and get 10' 3/4" conduit, (6) 3/8x1_1/2" bolts, (6) 3/8 nylock nuts, (6) washers, and i bought some drill bits as well and a new hacksaw blade....
2. it was impossible to do the job w/o removing the back seats...i can't see it being done....i tried b/c im lazy but gave in and took them out...just make sure your have a torx #45 to remove the seatbelt/backseat bolts...i didnt
3. i drilled the 6 holes before jacking the car up
4. i then flattened the ends of the pipes about an inch for some test fitting....i later had to flatten them more to clear the trunk springs...
5. i then bent the pipes the best i could to make them roughly fit the way i liked...i used a pipe bender(borrowed)
6. jacked the entire car up...i didnt know only the rear needed to be up
and i have a rock driveway so it probably was more level on the ground 7. got a ruff idea of were to put the holes and drilled one at a time put the bolt through it in the car then marked where to drill the other hole...
8. repeat steps for all pieces and to save time start with the straight pieces and do the bent pieces last which i did not do and made more work...then i installed them w/o washers so dont forget the washers either...now your seeing why this took all day
9. tighten the b!tches up and clean up and lower the car...by now your prolly so fed up with this job your saying "i swear if i hear one more squeek after all this work im drivin off a cliff"
10. admire your work of art
Here's My Install...warning: BIG pic
Umm.. it seems even my shorter (straight) pieces need to be bent a little or something. I flattened the ends enough to clear the torsion bars and the metal surfaces and everything, but the ends dont sit flush on the metal [existing] braces where they'll be bolted to. It's weird. I figured they would line right up, and only the outside bars would have to be bent to reach the bolting surface. Whats up with this?
... And does anyone around me have a pipe bender I can borrow?
... And does anyone around me have a pipe bender I can borrow?
fireberd350
Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2002
i actually had to bend my straight piece too...i know for a fact that the right side straight piece needed a slight bend to clear the factory bracing on the bottom....but i do not remember if i needed to do the same on the right side....
i'd lend ya a pipe bender but i had to borrow one myself....
i'd lend ya a pipe bender but i had to borrow one myself....
ok, first off, why on earth didn't you paint those dang things black?!
now that that is out of my system...
firebird, on your install, why did you drill 6 holes? If I remember right, there are 4 holes pre-drilled that you're supposed to use.
The more I think about this, the more I realize that you could just flatten the entire pipe, or just use flat stock. It would fit better, and you could hold the pipes up easier for measurement.
now that that is out of my system...
firebird, on your install, why did you drill 6 holes? If I remember right, there are 4 holes pre-drilled that you're supposed to use.
The more I think about this, the more I realize that you could just flatten the entire pipe, or just use flat stock. It would fit better, and you could hold the pipes up easier for measurement.
fireberd350
Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2002
i was going to paint them but once i get my trunk kit you'll never see any of it....and i dont remember seeing any holes???
i've seen an install on a monte w/ flat pieces....i would think they would flex in the center though under pressure?
i've seen an install on a monte w/ flat pieces....i would think they would flex in the center though under pressure?
Ken Cunningham
Post No Bills
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Flat stock for me. I remember a structural engineer chiming in on this subject a few years back with a comment like "... a bent structural support is useless for both compressive and expansive loads ..." I know that GM uses a bunch of bent supports under the hood, under the front end, etc., so I guess if the support is burly enough, even bent it is satisfactory. Nevertheless, I used flat stock in my homemade rear seat brace. No pipe benders needed. But when I went to attach them I found out that a flat piece cannot be made to sit flush: the attach points require some bending of the supports! Some time in the vise with a hammer got that handled.
Where the supports cross in the middle, I drilled and bolted too. That helps distribute some of the load from the body flex into the cross member.
If anybody is reading this thread and wondering if they need rear seat braces... DO IT! I thought this was common lore by now.
I dont have ANY pre-existing holes. I wish they were already there. Would make things a little easier.
If the braces are installed right behind the back seat (not on the trunk side), wont they be felt by someone sitting in the back seat? Not that this is a big deal, because its not often, but I'm just curious. I do have a couple people in the car everynow and then crusing somewhere.
I'm afraid to tackle taking the back seat out for either method, but I might try putting them directly behind the seat. How do you get away with -not- having to bend them around each other that way? They still have to cross over/under one another... ?
I wish they were already there. Would make things a little easier.If the braces are installed right behind the back seat (not on the trunk side), wont they be felt by someone sitting in the back seat? Not that this is a big deal, because its not often, but I'm just curious. I do have a couple people in the car everynow and then crusing somewhere.
I'm afraid to tackle taking the back seat out for either method, but I might try putting them directly behind the seat. How do you get away with -not- having to bend them around each other that way? They still have to cross over/under one another... ?
fireberd350
Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2002
i tihnk the only way to do that would be to put 2 of them inside the trunk and the other 2 behind the seat.....thats the only way i see it working unless you notch out the pipe but that would just be stupid
