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Rear sway bar options

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My sway bar is basically a poor mans HR. I only have $30 invested into the bar and endlinks so I'm not exactly wasting my money here. If it doesn't work out I can at least say I tried and go with a different solution like Scot's. If anything I will try to see if I can shorten the ends and mount it where the HR goes.
 
My sway bar is basically a poor mans HR. I only have $30 invested into the bar and endlinks so I'm not exactly wasting my money here. If it doesn't work out I can at least say I tried and go with a different solution like Scot's. If anything I will try to see if I can shorten the ends and mount it where the HR goes.

I'm really interested in seeing the results from this. I'm a junk yard dog at heart and love seeing the low buck alternitives!
 
Junk yard doggin is one thing but wasting time and energy being cheap is another!!! There is a fine line between looking for the best deal on what works and whats good,and wasting money on crap....If you cant run with the big dogs stay ur a$$ on the porch until you can !!! It is ok to just cruise instead of bringin ur car out half done and tryin to race with crap parts and gettin your clock cleaned ..Time=$$$ Thats y im still in the lab... I bought my H&R bar lca braces and motor mounts all at the same time and all are still in the boxes cause i wanted to finish the front end before i started the rear...
 
There is also the NEW G-Body DSE suspension line available through us! The new DSE tubular rear sway bars offer multiple advantages over the non-effective stock rear bar. First, unlike the factory bar, These attach to the rear end housing and to the chassis cross-member as opposed to the opposite control arm, they were able to minimize deflection as your car is placed under a heavy cornering load. Second, the DSE bars mount to the chassis via their patented Swivel-Links (tm) allowing free articulation of the bar, eliminating binding through the range of rear suspension travel. The sway bar is also made of 1" tubular 520 DOM for added strength and works for most street applications. The 1-1/8" sway bar is made for a more competitive natured vehicle. The bars offer dual rate adjustment for increased vehicle tuning. DSE bends all of their sway bars in-house. This allows them to control quality so you receive the best product for your money.

Rear sway Bar = $325.00 Link for REAR products and pricing--> GNS

Front sway Bar & Chassis Brace Kit = $375.00 Link for FRONT products & pricing--> GNS


Scot W.

Pic's below: TOP is the "Rear" Kit / BOTTOM is the "Front" Kit

Doesnt that use one of the sway bar mount holes on the lower control arm and not the chassis like it says in the ad?
 
The ATR bar was night and day for me. Had to use a 3lb sledge to whack it in..at least for me...that sucker was TIIIIGHT...:biggrin:

But either bar will do...just make sure you have boxed lowers when running the ATR, ask me how Iknow...:rolleyes:
how do you know? i have the ATR with out boxed lowers.
 
Doesnt that use one of the sway bar mount holes on the lower control arm and not the chassis like it says in the ad?
No it does Not use Any of the holes on the lower control arms, It's all mounted to the chassis.

Here is the link to my install: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/br...els/329141-complete-dse-suspension-build.html

Look at the mount on the axle tube, then look at the mount behind the spring on the chassis.
DSE054.jpg
 
Ah, i see that the bracket is different that mounts it to the body. With the link it resembled one that mounted to the control arm with a link. My bad.
 
I know because After a few hard launches my stock lowers got pinched...the stockers are crappy stamped steel, I would never have a huge bar with stock unboxed control arms....:wink:
 
there was a thread on here around a year ago where h+r did a comparison of his to the others and it was quite a few diffrences and after reading what he wrote it seamed well worth the $100 diffrence between h+r bar and spohn,bmr etc....

i would look up the thread but i can never seem to find what i'm looking for.it was a great read!

I had it saved, but that was too many computer crashes ago :(
There are a lot of points mentioned on pg 3 & 4 in the catalog avail on the home page of our site (outdated I know). The info is the same in our 2010 catalogs. Got a completely new site in the works, be out for 2011.

One other thing that you all might want to consider is who all is a paid advertiser on the board here. That money helps keep the site up & running & free to users. And also the paid sponsorship at the Buick events. That money is where most all events get the prize money for the racers. We just gave away over $2200 + shirts at the GSCA Nat's @ BG, + contingency prize money if you win using our suspension parts. Some of that is why our stuff might seem a little more than the others that don't give back to the community. That is what keeps all this fun alive! And unfortunately, when people try to push other brands that don't support the board members or racers at the events, it makes a LOT of us sponsors wonder why we should do as much or do it at all. Another vendor & major sponsor actually brought this thread to my attention & has been wondering the same thing for a while now. Just seems it isn't appreciated & it just comes down to the cheapest parts avail.

Anyway, just something else to think about when comparing apples & oranges (or lemons in some cases). You do get what you pay for in a lot of cases. As for the budget do-it-yourself version, I have been there myself. Just put some value on your time & watch out for the brake line getting pinched under the clamps. That's why we use custom laser cut brackets with a provision to go around it. Beats changing the line & bleeding the brakes etc. Be safe! Can't put a price on your life!!!
 
The ATR bar was night and day for me. Had to use a 3lb sledge to whack it in..at least for me...that sucker was TIIIIGHT...:biggrin:

But either bar will do...just make sure you have boxed lowers when running the ATR, ask me how Iknow...:rolleyes:

Well I just intalled my ATR with Metco Lowers and I spent about 6 hours grinding on that thing to make it fit! I didn't want to do it but I already had all the parts and want to go to the track this weekend.
 
I had it saved, but that was too many computer crashes ago :(
There are a lot of points mentioned on pg 3 & 4 in the catalog avail on the home page of our site (outdated I know). The info is the same in our 2010 catalogs. Got a completely new site in the works, be out for 2011.

One other thing that you all might want to consider is who all is a paid advertiser on the board here. That money helps keep the site up & running & free to users. And also the paid sponsorship at the Buick events. That money is where most all events get the prize money for the racers. We just gave away over $2200 + shirts at the GSCA Nat's @ BG, + contingency prize money if you win using our suspension parts. Some of that is why our stuff might seem a little more than the others that don't give back to the community. That is what keeps all this fun alive! And unfortunately, when people try to push other brands that don't support the board members or racers at the events, it makes a LOT of us sponsors wonder why we should do as much or do it at all. Another vendor & major sponsor actually brought this thread to my attention & has been wondering the same thing for a while now. Just seems it isn't appreciated & it just comes down to the cheapest parts avail.

Anyway, just something else to think about when comparing apples & oranges (or lemons in some cases). You do get what you pay for in a lot of cases. As for the budget do-it-yourself version, I have been there myself. Just put some value on your time & watch out for the brake line getting pinched under the clamps. That's why we use custom laser cut brackets with a provision to go around it. Beats changing the line & bleeding the brakes etc. Be safe! Can't put a price on your life!!!




http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/br...ar-bar-vs-sphoon-rear-sway-anti-roll-bar.html
this was the thread that convinced me
 
Yea I had to grind my ATR bar down also...after 3 hours of banging it, it would not go in so took some off on each end then it BARELY squeezed in...:biggrin:
 
I installed my HR bar early in the year. Yes it is pricey, but I am absolutely positive to be worth it. Night and day, as I am sure you expect. The car hooks so much better now. I used to rip my Nittos from a 35 - 40 MPH roll, and now I get a chirp at 15MPH. I also was able to remove my front sway bar and the car handles just as good as it did before. Street manners are just wonderful also and I have my bar set up for full race.

Not to say that an ATR, BMR or the bar that Scott is selling would not do sufficient enough. But the HR is definately all you will ever need in a rear bar, hands down !


Mike
 
I actually grabbed a rear sway bar off a '98 2 door Chevy Blazer. just make sure you grab the swaybar with the shorter arms that mount in front of the axle. The 4 door models have the longer arms that mount behind the axle. I think I used 3" endlinks and mounted them up to the holes in the triangle brace on the frame in front of the rear wheels. I'd take pics, but I don't have a camera right now. I'm yet to drive the car, but will make a review thread in about 6 months when it is back together.


could you post pics of how this is mounted?
 
Well another option I'll be trying is what you see in the pic below. That's right, two sway bars.:biggrin: It may not work but it's worth a try.:eek: The stock one is attached to the control arms and the other one is attached to the axle and frame.

pics of mounting points and list of parts that you used to complete install?
 
I still have some mixed feelings about my H&R bar…:rolleyes: Some guys swear by it, well not me.(n) I'm not saying it's bad, but I'm far from being sure that it helped my car hook better. Before having the H&R, my car pulled the wheels off the ground (yes a little crooked) but not anymore. It barely can lift the wheels one inch when leaving off the trans brake. :( I know, I know... everyone who likes the bar will say that it's me who's doing something wrong, or the bar not being adjusted correctly, but I've tried several adjustments with absolutely no difference. It's still on the car but I'm still not convinced it's that good (at least for me).

Claude.
 
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