HR! Expensive but I would do it again.....no doubt!
X2 worth every penny
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SignUp Now!HR! Expensive but I would do it again.....no doubt!
We will have them shortly. They are made right in North Carolina.. NOT North Korea :biggrin:Scott do you have any pics of the rear sway bar installed? Where`s it made? Thanks
We will have them shortly. They are made right in North Carolina.. NOT North Korea :biggrin:
These are in stock and ready to ship directly from the manufacture.Do you have these in stock?
My sway bar is basically a poor mans HR. I only have $30 invested into the bar and endlinks so I'm not exactly wasting my money here. If it doesn't work out I can at least say I tried and go with a different solution like Scot's. If anything I will try to see if I can shorten the ends and mount it where the HR goes.
There is also the NEW G-Body DSE suspension line available through us! The new DSE tubular rear sway bars offer multiple advantages over the non-effective stock rear bar. First, unlike the factory bar, These attach to the rear end housing and to the chassis cross-member as opposed to the opposite control arm, they were able to minimize deflection as your car is placed under a heavy cornering load. Second, the DSE bars mount to the chassis via their patented Swivel-Links (tm) allowing free articulation of the bar, eliminating binding through the range of rear suspension travel. The sway bar is also made of 1" tubular 520 DOM for added strength and works for most street applications. The 1-1/8" sway bar is made for a more competitive natured vehicle. The bars offer dual rate adjustment for increased vehicle tuning. DSE bends all of their sway bars in-house. This allows them to control quality so you receive the best product for your money.
Rear sway Bar = $325.00 Link for REAR products and pricing--> GNS
Front sway Bar & Chassis Brace Kit = $375.00 Link for FRONT products & pricing--> GNS
Scot W.
Pic's below: TOP is the "Rear" Kit / BOTTOM is the "Front" Kit
how do you know? i have the ATR with out boxed lowers.The ATR bar was night and day for me. Had to use a 3lb sledge to whack it in..at least for me...that sucker was TIIIIGHT...:biggrin:
But either bar will do...just make sure you have boxed lowers when running the ATR, ask me how Iknow...
No it does Not use Any of the holes on the lower control arms, It's all mounted to the chassis.Doesnt that use one of the sway bar mount holes on the lower control arm and not the chassis like it says in the ad?
there was a thread on here around a year ago where h+r did a comparison of his to the others and it was quite a few diffrences and after reading what he wrote it seamed well worth the $100 diffrence between h+r bar and spohn,bmr etc....
i would look up the thread but i can never seem to find what i'm looking for.it was a great read!
The ATR bar was night and day for me. Had to use a 3lb sledge to whack it in..at least for me...that sucker was TIIIIGHT...:biggrin:
But either bar will do...just make sure you have boxed lowers when running the ATR, ask me how Iknow...
I had it saved, but that was too many computer crashes ago
There are a lot of points mentioned on pg 3 & 4 in the catalog avail on the home page of our site (outdated I know). The info is the same in our 2010 catalogs. Got a completely new site in the works, be out for 2011.
One other thing that you all might want to consider is who all is a paid advertiser on the board here. That money helps keep the site up & running & free to users. And also the paid sponsorship at the Buick events. That money is where most all events get the prize money for the racers. We just gave away over $2200 + shirts at the GSCA Nat's @ BG, + contingency prize money if you win using our suspension parts. Some of that is why our stuff might seem a little more than the others that don't give back to the community. That is what keeps all this fun alive! And unfortunately, when people try to push other brands that don't support the board members or racers at the events, it makes a LOT of us sponsors wonder why we should do as much or do it at all. Another vendor & major sponsor actually brought this thread to my attention & has been wondering the same thing for a while now. Just seems it isn't appreciated & it just comes down to the cheapest parts avail.
Anyway, just something else to think about when comparing apples & oranges (or lemons in some cases). You do get what you pay for in a lot of cases. As for the budget do-it-yourself version, I have been there myself. Just put some value on your time & watch out for the brake line getting pinched under the clamps. That's why we use custom laser cut brackets with a provision to go around it. Beats changing the line & bleeding the brakes etc. Be safe! Can't put a price on your life!!!
I actually grabbed a rear sway bar off a '98 2 door Chevy Blazer. just make sure you grab the swaybar with the shorter arms that mount in front of the axle. The 4 door models have the longer arms that mount behind the axle. I think I used 3" endlinks and mounted them up to the holes in the triangle brace on the frame in front of the rear wheels. I'd take pics, but I don't have a camera right now. I'm yet to drive the car, but will make a review thread in about 6 months when it is back together.
Well another option I'll be trying is what you see in the pic below. That's right, two sway bars.:biggrin: It may not work but it's worth a try. The stock one is attached to the control arms and the other one is attached to the axle and frame.