Rebuilt engine, will not start

[white-t-type]

I recently removed my engine for a rebuild. Today I finished up connecting all the wiring and prepared everything for break in. I set the cam sensor as directed on gnttype website, however I am not getting any spark and my fuel pump is not coming on with the key. Any ideas something I could have missed? What can I look for? I know I plugged up the injector harness, ecm orange wire, crank sensor, tps, iac, maf, the 3 prong switch at the bottom side of the block on the passenger side as well as the coolant temp sensor by the top of the intake. EGR has been blocked, and I am using a RJC boost controller instead of the stock solenoid. When setting the cam sensor I could not get any higher than 4.85 volts, and when I turn on the key I do not get a check engine light, it never illuminates. Basically the motor will turn over but not fire, even if I run a jumper wire to make the fuel pump run it will not fire. I am going to walk away from it tonight and try again in the morning. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[darkred87T]

Got the module(coil pack) plugged in?

 

[DailyDrifter]

If the check engine light doenst come on, it means the computer is not grounding it. Make sure you have a good bulb and check your grounds.

 

[wickedtt]

I recently removed my engine for a rebuild. Today I finished up connecting all the wiring and prepared everything for break in. I set the cam sensor as directed on gnttype website, however I am not getting any spark and my fuel pump is not coming on with the key. Any ideas something I could have missed? What can I look for? I know I plugged up the injector harness, ecm orange wire, crank sensor, tps, iac, maf, the 3 prong switch at the bottom side of the block on the passenger side as well as the coolant temp sensor by the top of the intake. EGR has been blocked, and I am using a RJC boost controller instead of the stock solenoid. When setting the cam sensor I could not get any higher than 4.85 volts, and when I turn on the key I do not get a check engine light, it never illuminates. Basically the motor will turn over but not fire, even if I run a jumper wire to make the fuel pump run it will not fire. I am going to walk away from it tonight and try again in the morning. Any help would be appreciated.

Do you have the grounds hooked up on the passenger side rear of the head?? Sounds like the ecm isn't grounded?

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

The car will not start with out the "check engine soon" light coming on (key on engine off) using a voltmeter see if you are getting power from the battery feed wire.( the thin red wire coming off the positive battery post). If the light does not come on the computer is not getting power or ground or the idiot light is burned out.
I had the same problem and the power feed wire broke inside the insulation right beside the black do dad 3-4" from the battery.

Chuck

 

[white-t-type]

Turns out the ecm wire did not have a good enough connection. Once this was taken care of I had a check engine light etc and the car would start... I removed the balancer because of a metal to metal noise. Turns out the three blades attached to the balancer one was barely catching the front cover. I have removed the balancer and straightened out the bent blade and now the car will not start. By taking the balancer off will I need to reset the cam sensor?

 

[whitehot1]

Turns out the ecm wire did not have a good enough connection. Once this was taken care of I had a check engine light etc and the car would start... I removed the balancer because of a metal to metal noise. Turns out the three blades attached to the balancer one was barely catching the front cover. I have removed the balancer and straightened out the bent blade and now the car will not start. By taking the balancer off will I need to reset the cam sensor?

No,to having to reset the cam sensor.

Did you remove the crank sensor when you removed the balancer? If you did, when you reinstalled it did you adjust it with the rings/blades on the balancer going through the correct slot on the crank sensor? the rear slot, one farthest from the connector plug.

John :smile:

 

[white-t-type]

No,to having to reset the cam sensor.

Did you remove the crank sensor when you removed the balancer? If you did, when you reinstalled it did you adjust it with the rings/blades on the balancer going through the correct slot on the crank sensor? the rear slot, one farthest from the connector plug.

John :smile:

Thanks, by the time I figured out it was the balancer that was hitting last night and removed everything to straighten out the blades I must admit I did not pay attention to bwhere the blades were at on the crank sensor. I most likely missed that because it was almost 1AM. Anyway I will try that out sometime later today, that should solve everything.