rebuilt rear axle, now its louder! help!!

[jeff*k]

guys,

I just replaced all the bearings in the back on the 86 gn.
both diff bearings and the 2 pinion. i did this because of a "bearing" noise. the rear pinion bearing was at fault, it was real bad. i also found a nickle sized piece of metal in bottom of the housing. i could not find where it came from.
anyway, i had the new bearing pressed on and reinstalled everthing. i made sure the shims went back in their correct locations and torqued to specs. Now i have a new noise!!!
loudest when letting off the gas. its a grinding noise and comes and goes. (intermittent).

what do you think???

i did reuse the crush sleeve....???

 

[Jimn8or]

I'm certainly no diff expert here but the re-used crush sleeve doesn't sound like a great idea. What backlash did you set the R&P to..I believe .006 - .011 is specs and the tighter this is, the stronger, but noisier, the diff is. This is what was explained to me last month after my pinion bearing was so shot that it allowed the R&P to beat on each other enough to right them off too. I had to do new R&P, ALL bearings and seals and threw on a T/A Perf girdle and stud kit to help eliminate this happenning again in the near future.
Jim

 

[jeff*k]

think it sounds like backlash??? i figured that since i was reusing all the same parts it would not be an issue.

its not a continuous "gear" wine. in drive it will only "grind" every 30 secs or so, then the noise for about 2 sec, and then quit. this is with the axle on jack stands spinning free. once it hits second gear "30 mph" it is continuous.

while on the road it is most noticable when off the gas. its quit when in the gas.

 

[Intercooler]

You should never reuse a crush collar! The pinion bearings have to be preloaded to 20"lbs. of rotational force via a torque wrench on the end of the yoke nut. Did you check this? Are you sure your carrier seated properly? It could be anything at this point. Some things are better left up to the pros.

 

[jeff*k]

I agree that some things a better left to the pros. I am the type of guy that hates to take his car in for service. to me its like admitting that i have been beaten.
anyway, i will use a new crush sleeve. i did not use a torque wrench on the yoke. i tightened it till it felt the same as before i took it apart.

it should require 20 ft lbs to turn the yoke with axles in or out???

i have put together many jeep axles using my less than professonal techniques and have not come this problem. I guess i was getting lucky, huh.

any info is helpful

thanx

 

[cruzn57]

diff noise

I'm only guessing,(its hard to listen thru the computer!) but it sounds like the crush sleeve is spinning, since you have new bearings everywhere else, the only thing of question, would be the crush sleeve.
With the carrier out, torque the new sleeve down until the pinion takes about 18 to 20 INCH lbs to turn, ( you might want to check this spec, as its been a while since I have set up a rear) you will need to hold the yoke while you tighten the nut , this will pre load the races so they won't spin, then re install the the carrier, check the back lash, (the best way is to use a dial indicator) on a used ring and pinion, some where between .007 and .012 will be acceptable, tighter is better, but can produce noise on the coast side, use the shims you have , see what the lash is, go from there!
Another item to check is the dust cover under the yoke, check to see if it has been in contact with the housing ( look for shiny spots)
hope that helps, clean the rear real good! I'm using a girdle type cover too, for the extra gear oil it holds, as I don't think I have enough horse power to break anthing YET!
good luck, keep the shiny side up!
cruzn57