Rebuilt Trans Issues

SS-EXPRESS

Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2004
I just installed my freshly rebuilt trans last night. It's a refreshed Dynotech unit that a local builder did for me. We followed Eric's exact blueprint and I had Pro-Torque refresh my 12" lock-up converter as well. Trans cooler lines were flushed and blown out. The converter was installed correctly and all the way into the trans leaving me with approx 0.330" between converter pad and flex plate. I added 0.1875" of washer between the converter pad and flex plate giving me 0.1425" of pull out which is within the required (0.125"-0.1875") range. TV cable is set correctly and not binding. The shifter is set perfectly and cable is not binding. I put about 5 quarts of DEX/MERC in the trans an fired her up. Everything sounds good and she was taking fluid nicely. I guess I got about 10 quarts in it right now and its reading full on the dip stick when the trans is hot. I wanted to run it through the gears on my lift just to make sure fluid was everywhere in the trans without it being under a load before I went out for a ride. However, putting it in reverse the wheels will turn maybe 1 rotation and then stop. With the car on the ground it will roll 1 foot in reverse and then lug to a stop. Putting it all the way down into 1st gear the car acts like it is in neutral. It also gives me trouble going into reverse from OD but if you put it reverse from park it will go right into gear (but still only roll 1 foot backwards before lugging to a stop.) If I put it in OD though it will shift through all gears fine. I had it in 4th gear doing 45 mph on my speedo and everything seemed fine. I haven't tried to see if it will shift 1-2 if I start it out in 2nd gear or if it will shift 1,2,3 if I start it out in 3rd.

I have the builder looking into this now but I am hoping with all of the transmission experts that contribute to this board and that have helped me out in the past (APPRECIATED) I figured I would post here too.
 
Did they put a new snout on the converter? We were trying to install a converter last year that looked fine. Turned out the slots were to narrow to let the pump engage. Pretty much the same symptoms you describe. Make sure the converter is seated all the way.
 
Pro-Torque told me my converter just needed a refresh. I'm not sure if a new snout was put on or not. I'm 100% sure the converter is all the way in and I am very close to the optimal pull-out of 0.150" recommended by Pro-Torque. If the converter wasn't engaged all the way wouldn't it destroy the pump rotor and the car wouldn't move at all. Like I said, on the lift with shifter in OD the thing will shift nice and snappy all the way through 1-4 and cruise along in 4th gear with no issues. If the pump wasn't engaged I don't think it would do this.
 
The slots were just wide enough to catch the pump so it would make pressure but then give up. Just something strange we experienced.
 
Posting this to help someone out one day. The builder took it all apart and found the center support was cross leaking trying to put on the forward drum and the direct drum at the same time. Everything is all good now.
 
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