Adam Whitman
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I did that search too, and other than all of the photos from kit sellers, I found the same TB.com thread and this:
Rebuilt trans; No 3 or 4 shift
- Thread starter Adam Whitman
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Adam Whitman
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That video is useless. It has no details whatsoever about the valve body. But I did watch it last night. it has a nice burnout for a commercial video.
Adam Whitman
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But hey, at least I can see page 1 of the instructions on the google search. That's as good as I have seen so I am grateful for your effort so far.
mikestertwo
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Adam Whitman
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YAY!!! Thank you to both of you guys for your efforts, and the assistance!
Gary Durden
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That was the one I posted in my first link. Glad it worked out for you and I hope you get your tranny figured out.
David Husek
Turbo Buick Performance
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Those directions are one of who knows how many different versions of the kit. You have to tear the VB apart and remove the bad parts of the kit.
Adam Whitman
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Boy, Dave is once again right. I have the NoYoYo kit installed that uses the tension-spring "spacer" described here: http://turbobuick.com/threads/weird-spring-and-kudos-to-david-husek.449130/#post-3740214 while not described in these instructions.
Also found a broken "red spring" from the NoYoYo kit for the 2-3 throttle valve spring.
My valve body doesn't have the Line Bias Valve spring corresponding to these instructions, or the stock colored "chrome-yellow" spring.
One valve has a flat on it that may/may not be stock, but it doesn't appear the valve body is butchered by at least any obviously drilled non-stock holes or plugs to my untrained-but-learning observation.
And finally, having these instructions was still a huge help as it aided in comparing the stock config shown in gnttype.org, the NoYoYo, and what I have. Finally, why is the valve setup included in the gnttype diagram including #307 blacked over? I think mine has this, but is definitely a BR3 valve body.
If you want the valvebody returned to bone stock specs--send it to me and I will take it to Richard Clarks and do the deed. RC has all the stock springs reproduced. Once it's corrected you can do a few simple mods to it(or I can do it when I have it ). Contact info in my sig if interested.
Adam Whitman
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Thank you Steve. Dave was of your same thinking along with an inspection to ensure it didn't get any holes drilled or plugged as part of some of the TransGo kits. I think I'm going to peruse the instructions of the NoYoYo kit I ordered for the red spring and decide then whether or not to stick it back together to see what happens since I now have the valves un-stuck and have done searches to review what just about every spring for every valve does and compared what I have to the measurements of the stock springs. I think I've got the reassembly handled with the possible exception of a valve having a flat ground on it nut being stock and causing problems. And stock calibration might not be exactly right since it's going behind a V8 in a 3200 lb car anyway.
With that in mind, I should ask, and should have asked Dave before ordering another TransGo kit, how much would it cost for me to buy a set of stock springs?
Adam, I can not answer that those Richard Clark's and he's invested 1000's into reproducing all of them. He may not sell them, but he will service your valvebody.
Adam Whitman
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OK, thank you, Steve. First, I am going to try Gil Younger and $32.95
I air-checked everything last night, checked band clearance and re-read my notes about most every spring and valve. I will compare the shift kit parts and instructions I get with what I have read and noted and assemble accordingly. It had a nice crisp 1-2 shift before coming apart so I have to hold my breath on 2-3, and 3-4. Had I not found a broken spring, I would have un-stuck the valves and reassembled as-is.
You guys, TB.com, and the search function have been great help. I may be begging for help with plan-b depending on how this works out when it goes back together. I'm still waiting on UPS before I can find that out.
Adam Whitman
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I should add a long overdue update along with repeating thanks for all of the help to get this worked out. It has worked well enough that I moved on to other issues and forgot about it, but now I'm thinking it could be a bit more refined (and winter has about set in).
I cleaned and reassembled everything on the valve body with the Gil Younger kit since that is what I had. The only thing I didn't do consistent with the BRF springs is I installed the upshift spring where sources here showed there was none in the original BRF. That was supposed to lower upshift RPM, which I thought would be OK since the BRF was calibrated to a 231 that would assumedly want to shift higher than a 400 in a 3200 lb body; maybe this was a mistake. So I was fortunate to have a good builder but the sitting definitely gummed everything in the valve body just as was suggested earlier in the thread. It was a SOB to get a couple of those valves un-stuck! I'm back to thinking about replacing everything in the valve body with stock BRF now that I know what I have for a baseline, including a working trans.
Shifts are satisfactorily solid but not neck snapping. TV has the adapter bracket on the carb as sold by Jegs and others. It is set to full-pull at WOT.
The one weird thing is that shift points are pretty high at part throttle to the point of auto downshifts when decelerating for a turn. It's kind of nice because it keeps the RPM up a little bit for the cam I have, but not super high. It doesn't upshift into OD until about 40-45mph with my 3.73 gear. However, WOT shifts are very low in RPM, like only slightly higher in RPM than the part throttle shifts and not nearly as high as the BRF governor should be. Yes, I have the correct governor and it was working smoothly when I installed it. Pinned and spring in place before someone asks.
Should I be checking governor pressures next? Where is the tap located for that?
I cleaned and reassembled everything on the valve body with the Gil Younger kit since that is what I had. The only thing I didn't do consistent with the BRF springs is I installed the upshift spring where sources here showed there was none in the original BRF. That was supposed to lower upshift RPM, which I thought would be OK since the BRF was calibrated to a 231 that would assumedly want to shift higher than a 400 in a 3200 lb body; maybe this was a mistake. So I was fortunate to have a good builder but the sitting definitely gummed everything in the valve body just as was suggested earlier in the thread. It was a SOB to get a couple of those valves un-stuck! I'm back to thinking about replacing everything in the valve body with stock BRF now that I know what I have for a baseline, including a working trans.
Shifts are satisfactorily solid but not neck snapping. TV has the adapter bracket on the carb as sold by Jegs and others. It is set to full-pull at WOT.
The one weird thing is that shift points are pretty high at part throttle to the point of auto downshifts when decelerating for a turn. It's kind of nice because it keeps the RPM up a little bit for the cam I have, but not super high. It doesn't upshift into OD until about 40-45mph with my 3.73 gear. However, WOT shifts are very low in RPM, like only slightly higher in RPM than the part throttle shifts and not nearly as high as the BRF governor should be. Yes, I have the correct governor and it was working smoothly when I installed it. Pinned and spring in place before someone asks.
Should I be checking governor pressures next? Where is the tap located for that?
