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Removing front upper control arm (with pics)

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Call me crazy but the nuts on my bolts have a rolled end on them which makes them act as a locknut. They feel like a nylon locknut if you've ever used one of those (threads start normal then get tight). Even cleaned up they require a wrench to turn. No way I could thread these all the way by hand.

Those Dorman arms: did they come with bushings and cross shafts also or just the ball joint? If they came loaded then that would have definitely been the better way to go. I did not even think of using those. :0
 
Call me crazy but the nuts on my bolts have a rolled end on them which makes them act as a locknut. They feel like a nylon locknut if you've ever used one of those (threads start normal then get tight). Even cleaned up they require a wrench to turn. No way I could thread these all the way by hand.

Those Dorman arms: did they come with bushings and cross shafts also or just the ball joint? If they came loaded then that would have definitely been the better way to go. I did not even think of using those. :0

You're not crazy. They are lock nuts and tight all the way off, as you've discovered. A ratchetting wrench would probably simplify getting them off, but if you don't have any of those like me, and I have no intention of purchasing them, you're stuck with repositioning the wrench every time. :(
 
for you financially challenged guys.

Sears has from time to time, the ratchet wrenches on sale,
a set is under $25, metric or std,
 
Call me crazy but the nuts on my bolts have a rolled end on them which makes them act as a locknut. They feel like a nylon locknut if you've ever used one of those (threads start normal then get tight). Even cleaned up they require a wrench to turn. No way I could thread these all the way by hand.

Those Dorman arms: did they come with bushings and cross shafts also or just the ball joint? If they came loaded then that would have definitely been the better way to go. I did not even think of using those. :0

The dorman uppers came complete, just bolt on. I would have done the same for the lowers, but the only place I found that had them was ebay. I was lucky to have the ratcheting wrench. It still took awhile with that.
 
You're not crazy. They are lock nuts and tight all the way off, as you've discovered. A ratchetting wrench would probably simplify getting them off, but if you don't have any of those like me, and I have no intention of purchasing them, you're stuck with repositioning the wrench every time. :(

get some ratcheting wrenches... they become your "go to" tools for work in tight spaces (and not so tight spaces) and are money very well spent. they pay for themselves in time not wasted after a few uses.
 
you guys have me worried now Im thinking I should buy new nuts and bolts I even went out there today and tried them on there a tite but not so bad I can t turn them by hand. They look just like the bolts you have in the pick kind of like a lug nut.
Speed way use to sell the lower arms ready to go.
 
Coincidently, I had my head in both wheelwells of my GN yesterday. I replaced the upper A-arms with tubulars from Bweavy. Because the A-arm fasteners were not frozen by rust, once broken loose with a standard length 18mm, I made quick work of them with a stubby. However, my ultimate goal was different from John Larkin's. :smile:



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I'm in the process changing my front suspension too
UMI uppers and lowers new springs, calipers, rotors
On the driver side I disconnected the steering shift to give me more room
Those bolts are a pain but the upper A frame is finally out
I did not want to remove the bolts
The other side well, I have aftermarket headers downpipe etc.
Looks like removing the pipes and header will give me more room
I don't want to but I not going damage new SS stuff
I'll add some pics as I progress
What's the torque spec on the bushings?
 
Sounds like a lot work but would like to go aftermarket on my upper and lowers...one day!
 
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