Repair pass side header now no boost

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Or just ignore my first hand experience so they can experience it themselves! :D
 
Ahh....is that one of those "Expensive Lessons Learned" categories on Jeopardy then..:(
For $300 - Expensive Lessons Learned - please Alex
"What is - burning a hole through your header and filling it with slag Alex?

Yes yes it is an expensive lesson. On the bright side I can now upgrade it!!! :D
 
When you welded on your header, did you take into account that it's stainless steel?
 
I welded it at my house. I know it's stainless.

Every place I call it's a nogo on the turbine wheel for this thing. I hope to find a used one some where. I would love to put a TE44 on it but funds are tight right now.

Brandon
 
Get a hold of Bison. ..He can fix you up

Bryan

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
PM Bison. He has good deals on turbos and may give you something in trade depending on the damage.
D
 
x2. He fixed me up with a "different" stocker. If the wheel hasn't contacted the housing, you can get outta this one pretty cheaply.
 
:oops:

A welder :ROFLMAO: I have the ability to weld stainless at home.

Should I be concerned that that the wastegate actuator was full of oil?

I understand a welder was used...:smuggrin: Was it a torch and a coat hanger, a flux core mig, or maybe even a carbon arc and some brass rod????
 
Have to be some bugger welds to come apart and do that kind of damage. :artist:

Clean as much of the oil off the actuator as you can. Use a vacuum pump to test it. It's a simple diaphragm that will hold vacuum if in working order. If it doesn't hold it's shot.
 
At one time I had a problem with no boost and found the wastegate rod holder weld tag broke off, so I drill and used a regular screw since I don't have a welder at home, It works for now.
 

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I used stainless wire in my MIG welder with co2 argon mix gas. I know it is not ideal but it worked. When I did the drivers side header i had my welder at work TIG it. He said it was a pain in the butt to get it to weld. I heated the header up to 400°ish then welded it.

Bison has the parts i need to fix it.

Thanks for all of the responses I have gotten. I fell at home here where people can give you a hard time about something that I screwed up. I also have a Jeep and come from an offroad forum when the people can be pretty blunt.

Is there anything i should replace since the Turbo is off the car? I am going to port the exhaust elbow and the intake bell.

Just a little about my GN. I bought a few months ago and the work done on the has been on it since late 90's early 2000's. Conlley's in Houston did most of it. It has 36# blue top injectors, 3" Kenne Bell down pipe, 2 1/4" Kenne Bell dual exhaust. The fuel pump is Walbro and it has a adjustable psi regulator. I have plans for a hotwire kit just have not got to it yet. The up pipe and pipe between MAF and turbo is aftermarket. Not sure what brand. The car has the rear seat braces the missing body mounts replaced and front frame braces.

It needs a lot of TLC. The body has some rust issues that I am slowly working on.

Brandon
 
And hotwire that pump. The power wire is too small for a stock pump. It's generally still to small when you put in a higher flowing pump. Oh and modify the hanger's pressure port for more flow while you're there.
 
Another less expensive mod while you're there is a Dutt neck for the intercooler. Since you can weld it would a nice mod. I ran mid 12s on 36s, Dutt neck and pretty much the same mods you have.
 
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