Replace Driver Floor Pan

[G NASTY]

any non professional welders attempt it?

 

[Instro84]

haven't done any pans, but i did fix the body mount holes in my new frame. just taught myself how to weld last summer and came out pretty good. i would practice on some scrap metal to get the settings on the welder dialed in the try it.

 

[TURBOV8R]

any non professional welders attempt it?

Highly recomend getting a hold of a pair of panel flangers from eastwood or can actually make your own by gring and welding steel stock to a pair of vice grips,also gives you practice with welding.But the flangers will give you a flat seam after the replacement sheetmetal is fitted and even if you leave boogers from the welds,they'll be relatively flat/flush with the pans
.Wish I had taken photos of previous work but have'nt.Not that difficult even for a non pro like myself.

 

[usetaboost]

I can't believe no one has posted a how to on this yet with pics. It's a big conspiracy man I have 2 spots that need to be done. I heard if you do the 1/4 inch over lap it's not noticed after you do your undercoating but IDK I think there's a thread with pics on the "other board." Not much for instructions but it may help. DOes anyone mind if I put up a link to it??

 

[G NASTY]

post it..post it!! lol

 

[usetaboost]

This is all I can find.

Rotted floor board - TurboBuicks.com

 

[usetaboost]

I'm gonna try to do it today. THe patch panel I have isn't quite enough to fill the hole but it's close. The floor is distorted so it's gonna be fun to say the least. I'm going to try to do it without overlapping. So I'm gonna trim to fit and try to get it tacked in place. Afterwards I'm gonna try to straighten the floor a little more and finish it. If I get it tacked in place I will post some pics if I can get my buddy's camera.

 

[usetaboost]

Well it didn't go good. I couldn't get the welder set right and I got pissed off and left it. I will try it tomorrow maybe. I think I need to speed up and leave the heat down. I will post back with my findings

 

[karolko]

i highly recommend buying that specialy tool that steps down one side of the metal, and using klincos or rivets to hold the thing in place while welding. tyring to match up panel is much harder to weld, and much much easier to burn through.

Just my opinion.

 

[usetaboost]

I'm trying to weld it flush instead of overlapping it. The panel is pretty well straight with the existing floor, more than enough to tack it so the rest can be shaped straight. I just can't get it to lay without burning through it. Like I said in the previous post, I can't even weld up the old rivet holes from when I had a chunk of sheetmetal riveted to the floor. Why am I burning through the floor? I took a grinder to the floor before I started so I could get some clean metal and it still isn't working worth a sh!t DO I need to speed up the wire feed? I'm using welding magnets to hold it in place.

 

[pontiac6269]

Are you trying to but weld? Where the 2 pieces are set so there is a little gap between the 2 pieces of sheet metal. You have to set your heat and wire speed low so you don't burn through. Are you using a mig welder? Your only going to be able to do like a 1/8" spot at a time. Get the 2 pieces spotted in place around the perimeter. Take your old patch, cut it in half and practice on it to get the settings right.

 

[turbonut85]

Find a chunk of flat 1/4" copper plate to use as a heat sink. Clamp it to the back of the two pieces and give it a shot. The weld will not stick to the copper. +1 on the 1/8" at a time. migs are too hot to go all the way. The pan will warp REALLY bad if you weld it in a continuous bead. Spot weld it and move 3/4" away and spot it again. Keep doing this until you are solid all the way across. Don't get in a hurry...let it cool or it will warp to the point you won't be able to save it.

 

[19aD6Gn]

When i fixed mine i just cut out the bad part and welded in the new piece and when i was finished i fiberglased over the part o from the inside and it turned out really good and tough.

 

[usetaboost]

I'll try giving it another shot friday. I got heat out there but DAMN it's cold out

 

[turbonut85]

I'll try giving it another shot friday. I got heat out there but DAMN it's cold out

I hear ya!!! Gotta love winter!

 

[usetaboost]

The wife will go get a carton of cigarettes and taco bell but won't get fuel

 

[TURBOV8R]

If your overlapping the repair ON TOP OF THE FLOOR,drill small spotweld size holes as a guide on the repair panel and stitch/fill the holes.Vary the area your working in to keep the heat down in one area as stated above.Also,please be sure that the undercoating is removed from the area.It's hard to see smoldering when your inside the car.....Trust me on this one!!

 

[usetaboost]

Well gota little welding done today. It isn't pretty, but I got half of it done. Took an hour and a half. Got a bad headache from the grease under the car burning SO that will probably be enough for today. Now that I got the welder set better I might have the whole floor patched up in a week. I'm not overlapping any of the patches, it's a PITA doing it the way I'm doing it but I'm sure it will look more flush from underneath than overlapping it. I set the welder 3/4 speed with the heat on the second setting. Seems to work better than having it on lowest heat setting.

 

[TURBOV8R]

Remember too,when you re-apply the undercoating It'll take up some room around the seam making it virtually invisible from the bottom.Just don't glob it on too thick or it'll probably fall off in chunks.Another way to prevent future rusting is with Eastwood's chassis black/or rust inhibiter.Keeps a "barrier"between the outside world and undercoating which sometimes has a habit to act like bondo,it traps moisture between itself and the panel it's protecting.
I'm contemplating removing whatever undercoating is left and re-coat it with satin black.I avoid driving in the rain as it is,and snow is out of the question.Plus it looks really slick!:biggrin:

 

[usetaboost]

I plan on por 15 and undercoating on underneath. FOr inside the car I am going to use por15, fiberglass, and maybe spray paint over that. I don't ever want to do these floors again.