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Replacing T-top weatherstipping - looking for advice...

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Rafs-T-Type

Not so Senior Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
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I took all the plastic out in the car and removed a bunch of the weatherstripping. I'm wondering if I remove the piece in picture 20 to get to the rest of the rust as well as the center piece that goes above the glass, and the metal wing pieces if that makes sense. I also kind of feel like some rust spots may have been sealed in, but at the same time the weatherstripping was so dry-rotted that it makes it seem original. I'm all ears. Pics - http://imgur.com/3Bnu6,ayY9p,jyLdB,...,97Fte,edDgv,7v4F8,IEViv,jnK1k,Dh1b2,rKYxP#19
 
Not sure what the question is. You will have to remove the left & right plates in order to remove the center section. Once the center section is removed you can then remove the piece in picture 20. That is a seal retainer as well.
Not sure but maybe this exploded view digram will help.
http://www.gbodyparts.com/images/ttopdiagram.gif
 
I was just kind of wondering if I could, or more so should I remove that piece. Thanks for the other tip.
 
Yes it has to be removed in order to properly retain the new seal. Be careful they are brass & bend & destroy easily.
 
Yes it has to be removed in order to properly retain the new seal. Be careful they are brass & bend & destroy easily.

It looked delicate, and I was hoping I didn't have to mess with it :D. Some of the screws holding are pretty stripped out too :eek:. I'll figure it out though. Thanks for the reply. :)
 
Found some rot :mad:. What can I expect to pay to fix this? Anyone have pieces that may help in the project? TIA


doh 001.JPG
doh 002.JPG
doh 003.JPG
doh 004.JPG
doh 005.JPG
doh 006.JPG
 
Basically the piece I'm pointing at in the second to last pic feels like that aluminum stuff all the way across.
 
Going to need to sand blast the whole area all the way across and have patches welded in and bondo epoxy prime and base coat. Around $600.00-$750.00 depending on who you have do it. Maybe 14-17 hours of labor to do the work without really looking at it in person. Same thing was wrong with a car i did not to long ago.
 
Looks like your not the first one in there. We have this project in hi gear being rebuilt. This is the section you are pointing to with rust is should be done soon.
I put this ahead of the Grand National hood.
 
Looks like your not the first one in there. We have this project in hi gear being rebuilt. This is the section you are pointing to with rust is should be done soon.
I put this ahead of the Grand National hood.
Good input Brian. He also sells all the pieces too!
T-Top Exterior Trim Molding Weather Strip Seal Retainer $165.00
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1978-1988 Gbody T-top body exterior trim kit. The three pieces are used to form the finished edge between the painted body surfaces and the glass roof panels. They are designed to replace the factory thin brass pieces that are usually destroyed when removed. When removing the screws are normally rusted. You have to wedge under the screw to remove. When they are removed normally the brass is rusted into the body. They usually bend rendering the piece useless. Each of the 3 pieces are made of steel and finished in black powder coat. The pieces also hold the seal into place & retain from movement. A lot stronger then the factory brass components. An excellent upgrade when installing new seals or a T-top panel replacement kit.

Even if your T-Top section is not rusted or bent this is still an upgrade, The thin brass dents easily when accidentally being hit with T-top glass. During a repaint these pieces should be removed to give the best full paint results. So wether your roof is rotted & your restoring or just tired of looking at the dings in the factory trim this is a perfect replacement upgrade.
SET $165.00
Rear retainer trim $99.95
Front driver $49.00
Front Passenger $49.00

Available Options:
*Kit Type: Front Driver (-$116.00)Front Passenger (-$116.00)Rear (-$65.05)Complete Set

 
Hopefully he removed gently so he doesn't need that.

We are actually building a whole roof. I spent time today cutting the top 6" of a T-top B-pillar so some one can convert there once t-top roof back if they went to a hard top. Years ago we sold a lot of Hard top roofs.
I had this front part NOS GM, The t-top & hard top A-pillars & a factory Roof.
A-pillars are skinnier on a T-top then a hard top roof.
I did ask for this front section first. They already have the under skeleton done for a GN hood & a 2" cowl hood for the Buick. I figured this was more important.

Raf's just go in there & clean it all out & see how bad it really is.
 
Hmm, I'm wondering if I'm missing a piece now. I have the two shorter ones, but I did not remove anything that looks like the longer piece. Yeah Brian, it definitely seems like someone was in there before, surprising considering how bad the t-top seals were.
 
Ah, the other piece is the rear, I didn't know that comes out too. I didn't see one screw head. I guess it's time to find them and see what's going on back there too.
 
You want to strip it & see what they left you. I can see the Dum dum on the front center so they didn't get too crazy. We get test fitting samples in when they build these. I may hook a Buick Brother up. E-mail me it will have to be professionally installed by a Body shop for professional feed back. I'll try & get an accurate date when it arrives.
 
Ah, the other piece is the rear, I didn't know that comes out too. I didn't see one screw head. I guess it's time to find them and see what's going on back there too.
Hopefully you dont find this like i did on a customers car. Had to sand blast the whole top area and weld patches in and replace all the T-Top seal tracks
DSC_1475.JPG
DSC_1473.JPG
 
You want to strip it & see what they left you. I can see the Dum dum on the front center so they didn't get too crazy. We get test fitting samples in when they build these. I may hook a Buick Brother up. E-mail me it will have to be professionally installed by a Body shop for professional feed back. I'll try & get an accurate date when it arrives.
YOU CAN"T BEAT THAT DEAL!!
 
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