Retorquing new GM graphite headgaskets.
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dank GN
BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
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If you want it to leak then don't re torque them . They wouldnt tell you to do it if they thought it wasn't necessary. I have always torqued them to 80ft lbs in 3 steps , then acouple hrs turned them a 1/4 to a 1/2 then with one motion took them back to 80ft lbs . Then 24 hrs after that I would put them through a heat cycle let it completely cool then go through them agian .
Thumper
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It's not the oem gasket that requires the retorque.
The arp studs stretch when new, that is why you need to retorque multiple times.
The arp studs stretch when new, that is why you need to retorque multiple times.
The studs are not new. Still retorque.
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This is just my opinion after installing a few thousand turbo head gaskets over 30 years, and most of them have been stock or Felpro 9441-PT.
No matter if they are head bolts or studs, they are done the same ending up about 75ft-lbs.
On install, I do the final torque number, 70ft-lbs, and go over them at least 3 times in a 12-24 hour period and actually ending up about 75ft-lbs, and never break them loose, just add a little bit more by feel each time.
After a few hundred miles, good idea to go over them again.
Here is a little known tip directly from the experts at ARP: only put the moly-lube on just one side of the washer, not both sides.
No matter if they are head bolts or studs, they are done the same ending up about 75ft-lbs.
On install, I do the final torque number, 70ft-lbs, and go over them at least 3 times in a 12-24 hour period and actually ending up about 75ft-lbs, and never break them loose, just add a little bit more by feel each time.
After a few hundred miles, good idea to go over them again.
Here is a little known tip directly from the experts at ARP: only put the moly-lube on just one side of the washer, not both sides.
Never retorque OE style graphite gaskets here and no issues in 20+ years. And by that I mean after installed in the car. On the stand yes and like Nick I don't back them off.
However yes on steel shim gaskets, now for even more confusion read the paper that comes with TA heads and they say no retorque required.
Another trick is heat'em up with a heat gun at the water passages and then retorque.
Opinions and techniques will vary...
However yes on steel shim gaskets, now for even more confusion read the paper that comes with TA heads and they say no retorque required.
Another trick is heat'em up with a heat gun at the water passages and then retorque.
Opinions and techniques will vary...
These are Champion irons and GM gaskets from Highwaystars. Yes I am installing them in the car as well. Wish it were on a stand, life would be much easier. Guys this advice is greatly appreciated. Nick, I'm glad you chimed in.Never retorque OE style graphite gaskets here and no issues in 20+ years. And by that I mean after installed in the car. On the stand yes and like Nick I don't back them off.
However yes on steel shim gaskets, now for even more confusion read the paper that comes with TA heads and they say no retorque required.
Another trick is heat'em up with a heat gun at the water passages and then retorque.
Opinions and techniques will vary...
Makes no difference on car or on stand. Iron heads and graphite gaskets are good to go.; )
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