Rigged hotwire kit...

[Powertechn2]

So, as it says, my car has a rigged ass hotwire kit. A 10ga wire ran from alt to a relay down by the fuse box with activation terminal connected to a key-on source, then 10ga back to the trunk.

I am guessing the factory relay is bad, or connector/harness. Seems like it is not connected anymore as the pump doesn't even turn on if the rigged relay isn't connected.

Is there a way to re-do this without having to troubleshoot the factory relay issue?

I want to replace the fuel pump and hotwire kit, but they all seem to be activated from the factory fuel pump signal and are p&p kits.

I'm trying to un-rig my car so to speak. I know a relay doesn't really care what the activation source is, but don't really want to just do a better job of rigging by making my own hotwire kit activated by a key-on source if possible.

Thanks for the assistance.

 

[GNRick]

If the factory relay goes bad (on the passenger fender) the car should still start when the oil pressure gets to about 4 psi. Did you try plugging in the factory connector back by the fuel tank?

 

[Powertechn2]

I checked for power at it, and found none... That is when I went to check fuses and saw the rigged relay and the 10ga car audio type cable. Tried to remove the factory relay and it seems like it melted to the connector as it wouldn't unplug... This was shortly after I got the car. That is when I figured out what the rigged relay was for.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

The black tar that the factory used may be hardened, and gives the appearance of being melted.
"I am guessing the factory relay is bad, or connector/harness. Seems like it is not connected anymore as the pump doesn't even turn on if the rigged relay isn't connected. " As Rick mentioned, plug the oem wiring back in. If the rigged deal is unhooked, the pump wouldn't cycle.
Look at the bypass wiring, below the turbo. It may be melted from oil leaking, and is not plugged in, or could be shorted.