Rjc Headgaskets

8

86 TR

Work In Progress
Joined
Mar 9, 2007
Anyone out there running the RJC bullet proof headgasket set in their car?? I just blew two of my stockers and Im lookin to buy a set of these. I want to buy the head studs too.

Any water seepage issues??? Straight forward install?? IM going through the bottom end right now to beef it up and Im lookin at options concerning headgaskets.

Thanks.
 
86 TR said:
Anyone out there running the RJC bullet proof headgasket set in their car?? I just blew two of my stockers and Im lookin to buy a set of these. I want to buy the head studs too.

Any water seepage issues??? Straight forward install?? IM going through the bottom end right now to beef it up and Im lookin at options concerning headgaskets.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I'm using them. Other than the price, I have no qualms about them. Getting the sealant rolled onto them and getting the gastkets in place and the heads on the dowels without making a mess is a bit more work, but I havent had any seepage problems or other anomolies. RJC is pretty insistant on retorquing them after a few hot / cool cycles, but I think most suggest the same. All in all I think they are a quality product.

{edit} additionally, RJC is top notch in my opinion, they bent over backwards to get my order shipped on the day I ordered (they tracked down the FedEx - I think- guy after he had already made his daily rounds. This helped me to get the car ready for the next weekend of racing. Great company to support IMO.
 
You dont really need the roller. Just spread it around with your finger.. use a rubber glove tho, the sealant is acidic and will do a number on your finger cuticles. Be sure to retorque 45 minutes or so later.
 
the big big deal is to retorque after a few heatcycles...i didnt and destroyed one. never had seep issues with em.
 
what exactly is considered a heat cycle??? how long , how hot etc what needs to happen in between re torquing those heads...thanks noah.
 
heat cycle would be getting her hot enough to open the thermostat at least, then drive it home and let it cool down and retorque
 
You dont have to retorque after a heat cycle. You do need to retorque about an hour after initial installation tho.
 
question on this Jay whats the proper method for a retorque? loosening up each bolt one at a time in proper sequence then torque to specs or just going over each one without the loosening step??
 
Turbo Steve said:
question on this Jay whats the proper method for a retorque? loosening up each bolt one at a time in proper sequence then torque to specs or just going over each one without the loosening step??
Click to expand...

I just go over them after about an hour of sitting. Ive checked them again next day and never found any that needed to be retorqued.
 
I re-torqued after sitting overnight then again after the engine saw a few heat cycles and 15-17 psi a few times in 3rd after it was cooled down completely. All with no detonation. Since then i have run thorugh 3rd at least 150 times at 24+psi and have not had a problem. I used the roller myself because i didnt want to get that sealant on my hands. Just put the gaskets on a piece of cardboard and roll away. These seem to be a problem free setup for cars running 130 mph. If you are having sealing issues then id guess there is detonation or the heads/deck are not flat.
 
Turbo Steve said:
question on this Jay whats the proper method for a retorque? loosening up each bolt one at a time in proper sequence then torque to specs or just going over each one without the loosening step??
Click to expand...

If they dont move i back them off a quarter turn and re-torque to spec. I usually dont get movement going over them.
 
The sealant he's sending now with the gaskets is okay for your hands. The old stuff wasnt. It was acidic and really painful if you got it in your cuticles.

I also dont use the roller.

Ive been using this method for 10+ years and never retorqued after a heat cycle but whatever works for you, I guess.
 
If they dont move i back them off a quarter turn and re-torque to spec. I usually dont get movement going over them.
Click to expand...



Since were on the subject of retorquing heads....

If they don't move why do you want to loosen them and then retorque them again? Wouldn't that unload or unstabilize the fastener and then you'd have to start over your torque check?

I'm thinking in terms of my helicopter maintenance experience. When we torque check anything...whether it be a gearbox, rotorhead, driveshaft or anything else torque critical....we NEVER back off any fasteners. It's checked at the final torque after so many flight hours. If it fails a torque check, it's checked again after a few flight hours and the process is repeated until torque is stabilized. The only time we back off the fasteners is if a torque check cannot pass and stabilize...and usually something else is wrong, like the fastener itself.

So I'm just curious why we can't do the same on head bolts....check them at the final torque in sequence (without backing them off) and if they don't move you're good? I just got my motor together and was wondering about this. I basically did what Jay C did. I've had a few heat cycles already but haven't done a re-torque yet.:)
 
JayC said:
The sealant he's sending now with the gaskets is okay for your hands. The old stuff wasnt. It was acidic and really painful if you got it in your cuticles.

I also dont use the roller.

Ive been using this method for 10+ years and never retorqued after a heat cycle but whatever works for you, I guess.
Click to expand...

how many ft lbs? and is this with studs?
 
I go to 75#s with bolts and 85#s with studs. I dont believe in torqueing the crap out of stuff like some people do.
 
Well.. in 15 years of using this headgasket method (Which I came up with, I might add), Ive had exactly 2 people blow it at well over 30 PSI and the gaskets were just obliterated.. it wasnt from the heads lifting. So you guys keep on retorqing if thats what you feel like you gotta do.

Actually.. Im gonna revise this.. its been a hell of a lot longer than 12 years, which is what I had up there originally. I originally did something similar back in 89 after talking to F&C concerning problems with their copper gaskets. They used a different sealant.. After a couple of years I had to redo them and I went off in search of something better. The double steels just sort of worked their way in because people were using them with silver spray paint in between them.
 
JayC said:
.......... Ive been using this method for 10+ years and never retorqued after a heat cycle but whatever works for you, I guess.
Click to expand...

Jay,

I am certainly in no position to question your accomplishments but one thing is still unclear to me;

1. Do you loosen the bolt from the final torque setting a bit (1/8 turn), and than re-torque?

or

2. Re-torque where the bolt is at, without loosening first (1/8 turn)?

There are many conflicting views on re-torqing of head bolts and your insight and sharing of experience and knowledge is appreciated. :cool:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

1NASTYGN
Complete stroker motor pan to TB
Replies
17
Views
2K
TurboTGuy
TurboTGuy
1
37,000 Mile 87 3.8L Engine for sale
Replies
8
Views
558
gn dennis
G
M
Blown head gaskets....What next?
2
Replies
29
Views
4K
ttypewhite
ttypewhite
S
RJC rear motor brace, TA girdled 8.5 10 bolt cover, New RJC headgaskets
Replies
15
Views
638
Steve
S
8
Cometic head gasket,rjc girdle ,tach,stainless valves
2
Replies
26
Views
1K
87action
8
Top