RJC steel shim headgaskets, re-torque or not ?

[turbotaone]

I installed the steel shim HG kit from RJC Racing on my TTA a couple of months ago and I've heard different opinions on whether or not it is necessary to re-torque these gaskets. I used the ARP headbolts and torqued them to 90lbs.in 20lb incriments.
I would like some more opininions on this subject?

Thanks
James

 

[azgn]

if they aren't leaking, don't bother

 

[Nick Micale]

I have always re-torqued the steel shim head gaskets, usually a few times.

Be careful at 90 ft-lbs on the head bolts as you can pull threads out of the block at that level [or even less].

 

[turbotaone]

Woody and Nick,thanks for the replies. Nick,when you re-torque the heads,are you just doing the bolts inside the valve covers or are you also doing the outer ones under the headers? How much torque do you recommend for the ARP bolts? I went to 90lbs because I figure the heads will loosen up a little after the gaskets settle,and I was trying to get away from having to re-torque them. I know that you have worked on a lot of these engines,so I would like to know what you think of the steel shim gaskets?

Thanks
James

 

[azgn]

I think I misunderstod your question....if you have just installed them, go ahead and retorque after a few heat cycles.....after that, a retorque will stop most leaks is necessary

I have Cometics on my car now and frankly I like the steels better....they are more forgiving imho

 

[Race Jace]

If you had aluminum heads on the car i would most definately say yes you HAVE to retorque them. I assume that you have iron heads. In this case it is not as critical. If it were me I would at least pull the valve covers off and do the top ones. they are the easiest to access. Just check the torque. If any of them move on the top row will really determine if you need to go through the trouble of doing the bottom ones.

I periodicaly check my head bolts. You would be amazed at how many of them turn.

 

[turbotaone]

Thanks Jason, I'll check the top ones.

James