roll bar

[TURBOTIMMER]

Next is fitting the rear bars, which is where I'm at right now. Because of the lower main hoop, I actually cut about 2" off the trunk side of the rear bars. I did this about 1/2" at a time until the bar fit flush against the frame crossmember. Wild rides pics show this bar landing between the shock area and the spring perch, but if I cut any more off, it would no longer clear the speaker holes. At this point, I'll have to cut out more of the trunk floor so I can get access to the joint with the tig torch.

 

[TURBOTIMMER]

This is the hardest part so far. Stuffing my fat ass in the back of this car to get the rear bar welded to the main hoop using a brand new thumb control for my tig.
I welded as much as I could in this position. Once the other side is done to this point, I'll cut the welds on the main hoop at the frame, slide the main hoop down into the frame and finish welding the rear bars to the main hoop.

 

[larrym]

Great work so far keep the pics coming!

 

[Pronto]

Thanks for detailed pictures. The rear bars are going through the outer speaker hole. How are you going to deal with speakers after the bar is done? Would there be any way to go more outboard to avoid the speakers. Did the plate that the main hop leg is going through come with the kit?

 

[TURBOTIMMER]

Thanks for detailed pictures. The rear bars are going through the outer speaker hole. How are you going to deal with speakers after the bar is done? Would there be any way to go more outboard to avoid the speakers. Did the plate that the main hop leg is going through come with the kit?

They are going through the outside holes. I'll probably end up cutting new holes for the speakers between the bars. I probably could have went outboard more to avoid the speaker holes completely, but I thought it would be easier to modify the sheetmetal on the speaker tray than cut and renotch the rear bars.
As far as those plates go, those are actually pieces of 1"x3" rectangle tubing I cut and welded to the frame while I had the body off. I thought they would help give me a flat surface for the bars, but they didn't really help.

 

[Pronto]

One more question, will the stock seat belts still be usable for non track days?

 

[TURBOTIMMER]

One more question, will the stock seat belts still be usable for non track days?

Absolutely. I can't remember how I had the harness attached in my old car, but I believe the waist belts were bolted in with the stock belts.

 

[Gene Van Horn]

Man those welds look great, cant wait to see it finished. On a one to ten what scale would you rank this,mind you i am welder and have mig,tig, flux core and a stick welder. Just wondering should i tackle this myself, although i do have three or four months on my hands and a heated garage.

 

[TURBOTIMMER]

I would say go for it, and I'm far from an expert welder. My biggest problem is getting used to the thumb control and holding steady while I'm laying on my back to get to the rear bars.

 

[Pronto]

Any updates?

 

[TURBOTIMMER]

Any updates?

Yup. Got the main hoop and rear bars in and finished welded. I'll post some pics and details shortly.

 

[TURBOTIMMER]

 

[TURBOTIMMER]

Since that last shot was taken, I have welded the main hoop to the frame solid. Today I was able to fit the driver's side door bar. Had to cut a good bit out of the floor. It goes to the floor a little too far back for my liking, but that will make it easier to weld solid. Bar clears my seat and door panel just right.

 

[TURBOTIMMER]

The notch in the door bar to the main hoop was nearly perfect. The cut from the door bar to the frame wasn't even close. After about 3 hrs back and forth between grinding and test fitting, I got the gap nice and tight.
You really have to cut a good bit of the floor out to have access to the entire joint with the tig. Even then, it's really tight at the outside of the frame closest to the inner rocker panel.

 

[Pronto]

That's a decent fit around the seat and door. Could you have moved the front point inboard for more access to weld? So do they leave the door bar a little long on purpose for a custom fit?

 

[TURBOTIMMER]

That's a decent fit around the seat and door. Could you have moved the front point inboard for more access to weld? So do they leave the door bar a little long on purpose for a custom fit?

The frame is about the same width at that point as the bar's diameter, so I really didn't have any meat left to take it inboard. Even if the frame was wider there, the bar is really close to the seat.
According to the website, there's no cutting required. Also, the pics of the bar installed in their car shows it in about the exact same location as where I have it.

 

[Pronto]

So is their kit 1 3/4" or 1 5/8" and did they say what the weight difference is between the mild steel and cm kit?

 

[TURBOTIMMER]

So is their kit 1 3/4" or 1 5/8" and did they say what the weight difference is between the mild steel and cm kit?

1 3/4" is the smallest you can go legally (NHRA or IHRA track) for a 6 point, which is what this is. I forget the weight difference, but it's significant.

 

[vboosted6]

Nice job, your roll bar coming out great.If you dont mind me asking what tig machine are you using?Im thinking about buying a machine soon.

 

[TURBOTIMMER]

Nice job, your roll bar coming out great.If you dont mind me asking what tig machine are you using?Im thinking about buying a machine soon.

Sorry for the late reply. It's a Hobart Tig Mate. I've had it for a few years. I'm not sure of the model number, but it has Miller parts in it. The welding supply store I bought it from said it's basically Miller's Economy line. I'll snap a pic and post it later.