RPM No reading and LS1/translator problems

[Chatmanboy]

RPM Gauge not working any one no what the problem is and also my LS1 and Translator make my check engine light come on. It also sound like is sucking in to much air or something and i couldnt figure out the problem so i put the stock maf back on.

 

[RegalT-type85]

I take it you mean the Stock in dash tach&boost gauge? Is your boost reading? These two gauges were always a problem. I'm sure it just went out If you choose to stay stock, CEI - Casper's Electronics, Inc. They can repair it. Did the stock MAF give you codes? Was the translator set right? The LT1/LS1 MAF might be bad. If you have a open cone filter, that sucking sound is ok.

 

[Waco84GN]

No rpm...

I believe the rpm signal originates at the crank sensor, goes into the ogn module then into the harness. Goes through connector c437 I think behind the glove box. From there it goes into the dash harness and over to the fake led tach.

So it could be crank sensor, ign module, the c437 connection or any wire in between.

Do you have a scan tool to check for a maf reading at idle with the translator setup?

Could be the iacv hanging the throttle blade open excessively do to the lack of rpm.

The ECM calculates the fuel tables partly based on rpm I believe and vehicle speed. So if there is no rpm signal it is liable to do some wierd stuff trying to correct the fuel mixture.

I may be totally wrong on any or all of this info and there are hotair experts boost231, jerryl, and a general overall expert charlief1 that can be contacted.

These are the things I would check first.

Good luck,
Jerry jr.

 

[Chatmanboy]

Yes the stock guage is not working... the boost is fine... i will check those thing and see if thats the problem thanks

 

[Jerryl]

I believe the rpm signal originates at the crank sensor, goes into the ogn module then into the harness. Goes through connector c437 I think behind the glove box. From there it goes into the dash harness and over to the fake led tach.

So it could be crank sensor, ign module, the c437 connection or any wire in between.

Do you have a scan tool to check for a maf reading at idle with the translator setup?

Could be the iacv hanging the throttle blade open excessively do to the lack of rpm.

The ECM calculates the fuel tables partly based on rpm I believe and vehicle speed. So if there is no rpm signal it is liable to do some wierd stuff trying to correct the fuel mixture.

I may be totally wrong on any or all of this info and there are hotair experts boost231, jerryl, and a general overall expert charlief1 that can be contacted.

It has been a while, but I know for a fact that you can get the rpm signal at the ECM. Having said that, if could be as simple as a bad connection in the dash, or a failing RPM "light thingy" :tongue: in the dash which are notorious for going out.

Not sure if the car would start if the crank sensor was bad. :confused

Not going to speak for others . . . . . . and while I am humbled to be considered an expert, I consider myself a student.
The true differentiation between experts should be made between “active” and “inactive” experts.
We all have our strengths and weaknesses, and despite the lack of respect for the HA cars, we can collectively come up with some FAST cars.

RPM Gauge not working any one no what the problem is and also my LS1 and Translator make my check engine light come on. It also sound like is sucking in to much air or something and i couldnt figure out the problem so i put the stock maf back on.

Man your post are hard to read . . . .
I think someone mentioned: Did you have the chip burned with the IAT?

I take it you mean the Stock in dash tach&boost gauge? Is your boost reading? These two gauges were always a problem. ......... Did the stock MAF give you codes? Was the translator set right? The LT1/LS1 MAF might be bad. If you have a open cone filter, that sucking sound is ok.

x2

 

[RegalT-type85]

Did you find the problem?

 

[Chatmanboy]

Did you find the problem?

Not yet. Waiting for my scanmaster to come so that a help me out for the RPM. I know the dash work because it was working when i first got the car last year. Im guessing the mechanic that put the engine in didnt connect something. As far as the LS1/Translator it still is sucking in to much air and i dnt think its getting enough gas into the engine for that amount. I havent put the new HP fuel pump in yet and i think the existing fuel pump maybe going out. So that may be the case for that.

 

[RegalT-type85]

the fump upgrades sound good, scan master is something i need as well. These stock gauges just go out, crap out Everyone will tell you this, Mine reads all full tach 100% of the time, my boost works but i dont rely on it. So don't worry to much if it's mest up, either get it fixed or go aftermarket.

 

[Jerryl]

......... my boost works but i dont rely on it. So don't worry to much if it's mest up, either get it fixed or go aftermarket.

The 3 Bar MAP will also change the boost readings significantly.

Scanmaster is a GREAT tool.
Powerlogger is a GREATER tool with MUCH more capability.

Contact TT, the PL, WB and 6.0 chip, and call it a day.

 

[RegalT-type85]

I Forgot, i have a aftermaket boost gauge

Did you also get the 'Hotwire kit" for the pump? what regulator do you have? bosch 237(should be black with 237 on it) stock unit is bronze i think, ****ty regualtor. I have a spare 237 if you need it(i think) or can be found really easy at the junk, or do you have an Adj regulator?

Again the Tach and boost gauges always F$## up. As for the air sucking sound, a wideband would help in that area. it will let you knowif the Air/Fuel ratio is rich or lean at idle. This is were a Adj fuel pressure regulator comes into play, you can adjust ratio, idle & WOT.


what other mods have you done? Fill in your sig.