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Run problems - '87 GN

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thanks again, guys.

neither the stock or Kenne Bell chips were a problem up until about 3 years ago. started right up, idled well, ran good for the most part. then she started running poorly and I took it in to ESP. that was about the time we found the coil pack was bad and replaced it, along with some vacuum hoses and other minor items.

I'm taking it to a very good mechanic on Monday. has all the scanning and test equipment. he's confident he can fix this thing and I'm inclined to believe him from what I've seen of his work on cars of friends of mine. we're going to find out.

in the mean time, I'm going to spend a bit more time on this website to see if I can't soak up some knowledge from you guys.
 
thanks again, guys.

neither the stock or Kenne Bell chips were a problem up until about 3 years ago. started right up, idled well, ran good for the most part. then she started running poorly and I took it in to ESP. that was about the time we found the coil pack was bad and replaced it, along with some vacuum hoses and other minor items.

I'm taking it to a very good mechanic on Monday. has all the scanning and test equipment. he's confident he can fix this thing and I'm inclined to believe him from what I've seen of his work on cars of friends of mine. we're going to find out.

in the mean time, I'm going to spend a bit more time on this website to see if I can't soak up some knowledge from you guys.
It would also help if you stated what part of the country you are in. There could be someone right around the corner ready to help you and save you a ton of money also. Most of the stuff in these cars are relatively simple. Something like a Scanmaster is super simple to install and to learn. It really is a bunch of guages all in one. Temp, vac, rpm, etc. A Turbo Tweak chip has exellent idling characteristics and the added plus of being able to make adjustments by a simple turn of the key and a few presses of the gas peddle. Real simple. You can change your own chips in less than a minute and a 1/4 inch socket. Just having a boost gauge could easily save your motor. The stock gauge is totally unreliable and you might not notice an overboosting condition which could easily pop a headgasket and grenade your motor. Don't be intimidated! You say you have owned the car since new. Have you ever had the drivers side header repaired? If not, it most likely is cracked between the back 2 tubes closest to the firewall. Virtually 100% of these crack and can cause idling problems. I wish you lived in Mass.
 
thanks. I'm from southeastern PA.

I'll be taking a real close look at the header when it's on the lift. and I'll definitely keep the chip in mind.
 
My cars oil smelled like gas,right on the dipstick,it wasn't a day later where I randomly came across that description and = a cracked header. Sure enough-a cracked header and all I could see was a little bit of carbon around a tiny crack...until I pulled the header and the backside you could almost slip a credit card into it. Dipstick,header,tiny crack,slip in,back side...the double entendre's here are crazy.
 
I think you're missing the point of what SS502 is trying to said, without at least a ScanMaster you can't troubleshoot any type of problem to which you are having now. Even if you change over to the 21st Century scan tool, it's still going to be call ScanMaster, Power-logger, etc.

Get a ScanMaster read the easy instruction, install the scan tool, idle the engine hot, write the numbers down and then give the reading numbers to board so other experience members can help and guide you to your present problem.

I myself was one like you with problems until one member told me to invest in a ScanMaster as a starting point to troubleshoot these cars.
X2 A scanmaster is a must have
 
thanks. I'm from southeastern PA.

I'll be taking a real close look at the header when it's on the lift. and I'll definitely keep the chip in mind.
You probably will not see the crack with the car on a lift. With the car on the ground take a flashlight and look down on the header near the brake master cylinder. You are looking for a tiny crack between the last 2 tubes near the firewall.
 
Would a cracked header cause high blm's? If so I would check the blm's first, as a starting point.
 
thanks for all the input, guys.

no cracked header. replaced the plugs - again. checked all the vacuum hoses, wiring and clamps. all tight, no leaks. finally took out the chip and re-installed the factory chip. idled much better. then installed the Kenne Bell chip. idled and ran good. looks like a badly programmed chip causing the idle problems. took it out yesterday for a 50 mile cruise and finally enjoyed driving the car again.

the KB chip doesn't produce the power the ESP chip did but driveability went way up. the car had felt unsafe at times with the idle problems - coupled with a replacement vacuum brake system.

still don't have the time to learn all the tricks but at least I now I would feel a bit better about my 19 year old daughter trying to drive it since it will be her car some day.
 
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