running hot

[ckmm]

i have a f/m on my t it runs hot i have tryed everything to cool it down nothing has worked . what if a mounted the cooler under the radiator horizontal would it still work . i run alky at 20 to 23 lbs . would this work

 

[UNDER-PRESSURE]

The PTS aluminum radiator seems to have good results on street cars that need to run a front mount intercooler.

 

[87NAT]

If you mounted it sideways it would negate the heat transfer ability that the cooler is designed for. You might as well get a stock location IC if your gonna do that.

Make sure your radiator is clean, 160 thermostat, get the dual fans from G-Body(even though somebody said G-Body sux! ) Run distilled water and some rmi-25 and you should be good to go.

 

[ckmm]

i ve put two thermostat in new radiator two water pumps astock one and high flow i ve used daul fans on ive tryed three diff fan changed all the hoses use distilled 3 or 4 dif water weter the only thig i can think of is the fmic it runs 185 to195 no ac and when i get on it it gose up 200to 210 ihave replaced the head gaskets to if i drive at 70 it stay 180 to 190- dont know what to do is this normal for a fric

 

[Quiky One]

Try aluminum PTS radiator, dual 11" spal fans with Caspers harness, and a 160 thermostat. If your car runs 200 with those mods I would look for a leak..

 

[87NAT]

Be honset with u..I took off my FMIC because of the same situation.205-220 degrees in the summer. I went with a PTE stock location IC and the other mods. My car in idling in traffic, A/C on wont get above 180.

It gets HOT down here in Louisiana and I had to do something. I sold it and never looked back. I feel at 36 years old I dont need the extra 20 HP or whatever ia FMIC is giving me versus a cool running reliable car that I can drive anywhere, idle anywhere.

Just my 2 cents..

 

[ckmm]

ya i have been thinking the same thig i was told with the alky you realy dont need much of a inercooler i may try to find a stock one a try it just to see

 

[Blaze]

Where are you in the sunshine state? Maybe you could borrow someone's stock intercooler for your experiment. I'm sure plenty of guys still have a stock one laying around.

 

[87NAT]

If ya put a stock one it better have a dutt neck because the alky will cool the charge but a bone stock IC will be an airflow bottleneck.

 

[gmachinz]

Sounds like it might be time to upgrade to a Mark VIII fan system. 5000 cfm max. will suck your dog through the front damn ear.

 

[tbirdv6]

Sounds like it might be time to upgrade to a Mark VIII fan system. 5000 cfm max. will suck your dog through the front damn ear.

Can you eloborate on that fan system?
FRED

 

[ckmm]

do meen out of a lincoln mark 8 what year .what is the flow on a daul fan

 

[ckmm]

im in riveview

 

[Hot Air]

I would like info on Mark 8 as well.
Conrad

 

[gmachinz]

Well, I've been building these fan systems for 1969-76 Vettes, 1st. Gen. F-Bodies and all 1964-88 GM A and G bodies. After mentioning this, I think I should maybe jump on board as a sponsor for the site so as not to sound like a shameless plug...LOL. Anyway, we combine the 1997-98 Lincoln Mark VIII fans (NEW) with the latest Spal PWM fan controller to allow full control over the fan, electric water pump or both. And, we build supplemental relay harnesses for use with them to run either dual fans, multiple pumps and/or manual over-rides for each. We aimed to provide the best fan on the market which in this case is an OEM Ford Motorcraft Mark VIII and it pulls 4800-5000 cfm @ 32 amps max. They measure 22x19x5.75 and can be trimmed to gain a little extra clearance. This fan does not require a HO alternator unless you want to use a relay to trigger it on/off instead of the controller...in that case, we have 70-amp relay kits for that. The idea is to use the most powerful fan available so that it only has to work at 40-50% capacity to keep virtually any engine cool, regardless of how hard you push it. For a boosted car with AC, I can't see a better alternative. The fan will speed up via the Spal controller to maintain a stable coolant temperature. It is triggered of a temperature switch which btw the water pump arm is the best place for it but that requires drilling/tapping. That's where we prefer to place it but the intake will work too. The ony issue is depth. You need at least 5.25" of clearance between the water pump and the radiator-that and brackets for mounting. Any questions about it I can answer at gmachinz@juno.com If enough are interested, I can arrange a GP after I add myself to the sponsor page. We stock about 20 in the shop at any given time and we let them go for $189.99. Dealers sell them over the counter at over $350 right now-crazy. We do a LOT of installs so we are given special pricing on them. If you want details or specs you can also reach me at 515-979-8602. -Jabin.

 

[tbirdv6]

Well, I've been building these fan systems for 1969-76 Vettes, 1st. Gen. F-Bodies and all 1964-88 GM A and G bodies. After mentioning this, I think I should maybe jump on board as a sponsor for the site so as not to sound like a shameless plug...LOL. Anyway, we combine the 1997-98 Lincoln Mark VIII fans (NEW) with the latest Spal PWM fan controller to allow full control over the fan, electric water pump or both. And, we build supplemental relay harnesses for use with them to run either dual fans, multiple pumps and/or manual over-rides for each. We aimed to provide the best fan on the market which in this case is an OEM Ford Motorcraft Mark VIII and it pulls 4800-5000 cfm @ 32 amps max. They measure 22x19x5.75 and can be trimmed to gain a little extra clearance. This fan does not require a HO alternator unless you want to use a relay to trigger it on/off instead of the controller...in that case, we have 70-amp relay kits for that. The idea is to use the most powerful fan available so that it only has to work at 40-50% capacity to keep virtually any engine cool, regardless of how hard you push it. For a boosted car with AC, I can't see a better alternative. The fan will speed up via the Spal controller to maintain a stable coolant temperature. It is triggered of a temperature switch which btw the water pump arm is the best place for it but that requires drilling/tapping. That's where we prefer to place it but the intake will work too. The ony issue is depth. You need at least 5.25" of clearance between the water pump and the radiator-that and brackets for mounting. Any questions about it I can answer at gmachinz@juno.com If enough are interested, I can arrange a GP after I add myself to the sponsor page. We stock about 20 in the shop at any given time and we let them go for $189.99. Dealers sell them over the counter at over $350 right now-crazy. We do a LOT of installs so we are given special pricing on them. If you want details or specs you can also reach me at 515-979-8602. -Jabin.

What's the depth trimmed?
I run a RJC FMIC & need clearance between the fan & IC Pipes
FRED

 

[Hot Air]

you might want to post some pictures of your cooling system
conrad

 

[Blaze]

im in riveview

I'd lend you mine but Riverview isn't exactly local to me

 

[gmachinz]

You can't go real crazy with the trimming-you can trim off 1" at most to give the overall mounting depth of 4.75". We stock a slightly lower profile fan by Motorcraft that is about 5.25" stock depth and can be trimmed to 4.50. We started keeping them in stock for the F-body guys wanting to stuff ProCharged BBC's in using the FrontRunner March pulleys. The fan motor is the same but the blade pitch is different resulting in a 4300 cfm fan. I'll try to post a pic of one of our fan kits assembled.
It should be noted this radiator kit is for a 1967-69 F-body and is designed as a drop-in replacement for the stock one. We are working on designing a shroud to extend across the 31x19 radiators for the g-bodies but nothing looks nice yet and it's not really even needed with this fan-it's mostly for aesthetics. Let me know what you guys think.

 

[Underboost]

Are 100% sure you done have a small Headgasket problem? Just asking