Running Super lean at idle

FP rises with boost 1 to 1 , the car feels normal underload, but will stall out at idle when coming up on stop signs or lights sometimes and the O2s will drop into the 100's
 
When it starts acting up I do notice FP drops slightly, Maybe I should order the casper dash fix.
 
Did some powerlogger files out in the driveway with the car fully warmed up after a 45 minute drive. Can someone take a look at the logs and tell me what you think? The car runs like dirt when the cooling fan is not on... the 02's jump all over the place, Once the cooling fan kicks on the 02's steady right out and the car idles as it should..
 

Attachments

  • Idle bad until fankicks on at end May 2 2019.dat
    183.3 KB · Views: 12
  • Weird Idle May 2 2019.dat
    246.9 KB · Views: 10
Did you record a file during the first fire up after re setting the computer/disconnect the orange wire?
No this is after the learn drive and having it running the same for a few days, The issue has been very consistent. This file is the car already running and is doing the issue then you will notice the 02's calm down and steady right up .. thats when the cooling fan jumps back on.

I swapped out my FlexBoard with a Caspers unit to rule out any charging issues with the field fix he installs in his boards. Swapping the board out didnt seem to help but at least my gas gauge is very accurate now.
 
No this is after the learn drive and having it running the same for a few days, The issue has been very consistent. This file is the car already running and is doing the issue then you will notice the 02's calm down and steady right up .. thats when the cooling fan jumps back on.

I swapped out my FlexBoard with a Caspers unit to rule out any charging issues with the field fix he installs in his boards. Swapping the board out didnt seem to help but at least my gas gauge is very accurate now.
Have you noticed if it does this same thing at idle during the first start up after a reset?
 
Should I be running in closed loop or open?
I don't think you have a choice with the TT chip,but the first time you start the engine after a reset,it runs with closed loop idle as long as it stays running. After you shut off the engine,it will run with open loop idle every time you run the engine after that until you reset the chip. You mentioned that it ran fine while operating with closed loop idle after a reset. I would reset the chip and drive around to see how it acts. As long as you keep it running after the reset,it will run with closed loop idle. I would do this to make sure that it does run fine as you said.
 
Here is two new logs to look at, it still runs like shit even after a ECM reset.
 

Attachments

  • ECM Reset Closed Loop May 2nd 2019.dat
    183.9 KB · Views: 14
  • ECM Reset Open Loop restart May 2nd 2019.dat
    118.9 KB · Views: 14
You could install a 180 degree thermostat so you can enjoy your car for now.
 
Check to see if the reluctor wheel on the damper is hitting the crank sensor. I just had a recent car with the same type of issue. It would have a bad idle in park or neutral but as soon as you put it in drive the idle would smooth out. Turns out the engine had bad main bearings. When the car was in neutral the crankshaft is basically floating and was intermittently contacting the crank sensor. As soon as you put a load on the engine like putting the transmission in drive the crank would shift and no longer hit the crank sensor. Inspected the mains in the engine and they were shot. Worn down to the copper. Replaced main bearings....reset the gap on the crank sensor and problem gone.
 
Check to see if the reluctor wheel on the damper is hitting the crank sensor. I just had a recent car with the same type of issue. It would have a bad idle in park or neutral but as soon as you put it in drive the idle would smooth out. Turns out the engine had bad main bearings. When the car was in neutral the crankshaft is basically floating and was intermittently contacting the crank sensor. As soon as you put a load on the engine like putting the transmission in drive the crank would shift and no longer hit the crank sensor. Inspected the mains in the engine and they were shot. Worn down to the copper. Replaced main bearings....reset the gap on the crank sensor and problem gone.
it idles like shit in drive as well, I think it's electrical imo but I just have not found the source as last year it kept blowing hotwire kit fuses aswell. I also just had this engine apart, checked the mains and swapped in a new cam , rebuilt the front cover. The thing has like 25 PSI idle and runs great with no weird noises.
 
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