Runs like garbage, bad ESC??

[dnthmn87]

If one of my spark plug wires wasn't grounding, could that have fried my ignition module? Because when I measured the resistance of my coils, 2 of the 3 were way high, but the new coil didn't change the way it ran, I have 3 coils that all make it run the same, 2 used, and one brand new ACdelco. Haven't checked the resistance with the new coils.
How to test the ignition module?
If esc module is bad, will that retard the timing constantly to make it feel completely gutless/an imitated missfire?

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

Just tried a brand new AC delco coil pack from Nos4GN, runs the same. I tried resetting the cam sensor, at the opposite TDC, car started but ran worse, same basic symptoms tho. Put it back how it was, still running rough, like a couple missfires going on, no power at all, feels like maybe 3 or 4 cylinders are runnin.
If we've double checked plugs, wires, coil pack, cam sensor setting, and power to the ESC, should we assume its the ESC module itself at this point? Anything else I should check before assuming thats it? And where should I get an ESC module if needed???
Keep in mind that its throwing code 43.

Code 43 is the knock detection system. No playing with the cam or crank sensors is going to fix it.

You already verified +12 volts and ground to the knock module (ESC filter). Now need to verify that the wire from the module to the ECM is OK. Disconnect the module connector and check for continuity between pin C of the connector and pin B7 at the ECM.

If open then need to repair the wire.

If there is continuity then reconnect the knock module connector, key-on, engine-off. Measure the voltage at pin B7 at the ECM. It should be around 9 to 10 volts. Most likely it is near ground (0 volts).

In that case the knock filter is likely bad. Can get a new one at 4-Stars NOS, or from someone on the for sale board here.

** for a quick & simple test to see if the knock filter is bad, get one from any GM vehicle and plug it in. Start the engine and go for a easy drive. If the SES stays off, then you know the filter is bad. Note that when I say any vehicle, I mean just that. The external modules all have the same pin out and will physically interchange. The difference is in the filtering they do. But for a quick test, this won't matter.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

If esc module is bad, will that retard the timing constantly to make it feel completely gutless/an imitated missfire?

A bad knock module that is intermittently reporting knock will cause retard.

If the module is bad and continuously reports knock that will set code 43. With code 43 being active the ECM will continuously pull spark timing. This is calibration dependent but appears to be somewhere in the 10 to 15* range.

Which will reduce power.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[dnthmn87]

Hey thanks, thats some good info, i'll have to try it when I get another fuel pump. I went to drive it yesterday to see how long it takes for the code to pop up, but it ran different. While warming up/idling, it had a 2 second window where it idled perfectly, really purred, then cut back to weak, shaky, missfiring idle, and died. It started right back up so I went and drove it. There was a time or two that had normal power, built boost and all! But then it went back to gutless as a geo. Code didn't come back on, and I had a hunch that a lack fuel might be a contributing factor since the regulator is really old, and the filter was overdue. After changing the filter, I couldn't get any fuel pressure, wouldn't start. Pulled the filter off, turned the key on, and not even a drop of fuel came out the line. But I can hear the fuel pump cycle on when I lay under the tank and have someone turn the key to the on position. So maybe my pump has just been dying this whole time. It is 8 years old, and has gone 30,000. I hope this is the problem anyways, but that doesn't seem to make sense where it threw that code 43......

 

[dnthmn87]

Put a new fuel pump in, ran the same.
Then I came across a a good running car, swapped the ignition module from it. And it runs just fine now, I guess the big sticker with a manufacture date on it reading XX/XX/87 should've been a big hint that the ignition module should be dying by now.... Thanks for the help ya'll.