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s-10 rear brakes

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garyk1970

Electronics Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Nov 4, 2005
Messages
4,329
anybody got the part numbers for rear s-10 manual brake cylinders and largest pads?
trying to hold some boost....brake job this saturday...
 
:eek: Fore warning for the back brakes possibly locking during quick stops and wet roads with teh s10 cyl in the back
 
TURBO NASTY IS RIGHT ,,,,But if you also add bigger front calipers.(bigger pistons) problem of rear brakes locking will disappear...I used US BRAKES sold at summit..was 89.00 dollars a caliper
 
Yeah I came across that while searching for the part number, many people talking about locking up the rears.
 
"I used US BRAKES sold at summit..was 89.00 dollars a caliper
Snowbird are these a direct replacement for the stock calipers? What is the part number for the calipers?
 
TURBO NASTY IS RIGHT ,,,,But if you also add bigger front calipers.(bigger pistons) problem of rear brakes locking will disappear...I used US BRAKES sold at summit..was 89.00 dollars a caliper

I have the S-10 rear cylinders on my car with big (13" Baer) front brakes. They rears still will lock if you get on the brakes hard (as when an idiot in a chevy pickup pulls right out in front of you and the car goes sideways when the back wheels lock up).

The rear cylinders are one mod I regret doing and I will be switching back to regular wheel cylinders at some point.
 
part number 7241-9001 and 7241-9002 these come with 2.75 pistons,do not use china discs as they will warp due to extra heat generated from bigger pistons ,,,but great braking from a vacume system useing big rear wheel cyls and no locking of rear wheels.:D
 
I have the S-10 rear cylinders on my car with big (13" Baer) front brakes. They rears still will lock if you get on the brakes hard (as when an idiot in a chevy pickup pulls right out in front of you and the car goes sideways when the back wheels lock up).

The rear cylinders are one mod I regret doing and I will be switching back to regular wheel cylinders at some point.[/QUOTE

Rob, thanx for posting this, so many say "I never had the rears lock." those cars never see the rain and are show/track queens and your case with the Baer brakes up front and still lockup speaks volumes

Lou w/ Lous auto tore up one of his cars on the freeway in cali due to rears locking as well.
 
I have the S-10 rear cylinders on my car with big (13" Baer) front brakes. They rears still will lock if you get on the brakes hard (as when an idiot in a chevy pickup pulls right out in front of you and the car goes sideways when the back wheels lock up).

The rear cylinders are one mod I regret doing and I will be switching back to regular wheel cylinders at some point.[/QUOTE

Rob, thanx for posting this, so many say "I never had the rears lock." those cars never see the rain and are show/track queens and your case with the Baer brakes up front and still lockup speaks volumes

Lou w/ Lous auto tore up one of his cars on the freeway in cali due to rears locking as well.

This was truly in a panic braking situation - the guy pulled right out in front of me and I was going about 40. The back brakes locked up and kicked the rear of car out to the right. The brakes feel great all the other times - but can prove scary in those panic situations. Some will probably say you could modulate the brakes, but when an idiot pulls right into your path all you can think is to jam on the brakes.
 
Ok. These brakes from summit. (snowbird) They're a bigger piston diameter. By how much. What was the stock diameter? Do these make that much of a difference?

And, I hear that they increase the heat on the rotor a little. Tell me this then. I had cross drilled and slotted rotors on my car a while ago, and I can tell you without a reasonable doubt in my mind, that they made my braking WAYY worse. It was totally noticable. I was told that they did that due to the decreased braking area (from the holes and slots) and that certain pads, work the way they're supposed to, at a certain heat range, and that if they don't attain that heat range, they work with less efficiency. Anyone else heard this?
What I'm asking is, due to the increased heat from those calipers, if I were to go back to drilled rotors again, would that just negate the gains I made if I got the better calipers?
 
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