Sam Biondo rebuildable linelock..

[wiked87gn]

anybody has one of these installed, good or bad product, it's only $34.95 brand new at summit racing..

thanks for your imput in advance

 

[TurboDave]

Pretty good quality. Mine has been going good for almost 5 years now.

It's also sold under the Moroso name, or vice versa. Not sure who's it really is.

 

[wiked87gn]

how hard is it to install?

is it hard to install?

 

[John Larkin]

This is how I did mine. I used the Jeg's equivalent of the Biondo.

Line Lock Install

 

[TurboDave]

Not the easiest install in the world, but went trouble free thanks to a NAPA manager that knew what adapters I would need for the hook up to the master cylinder. Click on the photo link in my sig and then go into my Grand National album, and in there is a picture of how it's installed on my car.

 

[salvageV6]

Anyone know what the difference is between the upper install near the powermaster and the lower install down past the proportioning valve?

Any functional or performance differences?

Or is one just correct for rules and racing and one isn't?

The upper install looks a lot easier like TurboDave has it.

PS: Nice house Dave.

 

[John Larkin]

NHRA says to plumb it after the prop valve:

If brake system includes a differential pressure switch, line-lock installed on front brakes must have solenoid installed after the differential switch. All line-locks (electric or hydraulic) must be self returning to normal brake operating mode.

I don't get a brake light when activated. I do hear of folks getting a brake light when plumbed off the MC that goes out when it is released. Functionally, it seems to be ok either way so I'm told.

 

[TurboDave]

Functional both locations are about the same. As for the NHRA ruling, I nor anyone else I know has had a problem in that area (and I've had some inspectors crawling all over under the hood).

Plumbed near the MC as mine is does turn the brake light on when applied (because of the imbalance in system pressures at the proportioning valve). But the light goes out at the next brake apply (as I'm approaching the line for example).

 

[salvageV6]

Thanks for the replies the few I've seen are up top and look easy to install.

I do have to change the prop. valve so I may locate it down there on the GN.

salvageV6 won't live forever so up top for the WE4 car.

Thanks.

Anybody launch the car with one of these or is it only good for burnouts?

 

[TurboDave]

Their primary purpose is for burnouts, and that's even more important on our cars where the rear brakes have to do so much of the holding during brake torque at the line.

ANY heat buildup in the rear shows renders them virtually useless for holding more a few #'s of boost. Keep them cool by using a line lock for the burnout and the holding power will be amazing.

 

[Louie L.]

I have the same unit in my car. I have done several and can install it in about 45 mins total , including bleeding the brakes. Mine worked trouble free for 2 yrs now. Very easy to install. All u need is 2- 90deg fittings, a 8-9 in. piece of brake line and a flaring tool Mounted parallel to the MC , screwed down to the inner fender.

HTH

 

[TurboDave]

I didn't even need a flaring tool, because that piece comming out of the MC and curving into the LL is an over the counter 12" brake line from NAPA that comes with fittings installed. Just needed the adapters.

 

[ULYCYC]

If you go to Autozone and ask if you can see the brake line assortment. They have about 20 different adapter lines in 6" and 12 " I used the 12" with green fittings and used my tube bender to make an "S" curve. It fits perfect with no extra fittings or cuts. It was around $5.00 I also have the Biondo unit mounted after the master. Works great..