sc&c front brace

[jlat]

hello; I finally got the brace installed with the mod Dsapper had done with his because of the PTE SLIC. In my case one tube had to be dippled a bit and you know what that meant. A big hammer as the tubing wall thickness is like .125. It's not the best way to do it but that's what the pocketbook said to do.
The brace is alot beefier than any other braces I've seen. We put the cross over pc. with like a .250 gap to the IC as I didn't want it too close. The design has that cross over pc. about midway and that's the best place for it but the mode is the only way it will work with the PTE....................
It did stiffen things up and I kept that other sq. stock brace that Kirban sells.
IBBY

 

[1KWIKSIX]

hello; I finally got the brace installed with the mod Dsapper had done with his because of the PTE SLIC. In my case one tube had to be dippled a bit and you know what that meant. A big hammer as the tubing wall thickness is like .125. It's not the best way to do it but that's what the pocketbook said to do.
The brace is alot beefier than any other braces I've seen. We put the cross over pc. with like a .250 gap to the IC as I didn't want it too close. The design has that cross over pc. about midway and that's the best place for it but the mode is the only way it will work with the PTE....................
It did stiffen things up and I kept that other sq. stock brace that Kirban sells.
IBBY

Can you post some pictures?

I recently picked up an SC&C triangulated front brace too, but have yet to install it. I've also got a PTE SLIC and don't have any clearance issues running Kirbans front braces.

Interested in seeing what MOD may be needed to use the new front brace with my PTE SLIC.

Thanks much.

dave

 

[jlat]

hello; I'm lousy at the pic. thing but if you search SC&C here you'll find what Dsapper did and I did the same. It's just cutting out the crossover pc. out and moving it to the rear of the car. You'll need to radius the cross over pc. as the brace is round stock. But you know that. If Kirbans braces fit with the PTE and your car you won't be dimpling any thing. I wish mine had fit as I had the Kirban braces before but the SC&C is the real deal but I thought kinda heavy.
goodluck
IBBY

 

[jlat]

hello; I got my TB on the road today with the new brace. About 60 miles to and from work and I like it. I think it helped the vibration I've been chasing.
Also today in Mass. it was hot as hell and more to come. Coolant temp. got to 180 and that's not in traffic and AC in the economy mode. I had the windows down and it wasn't mid day so it wasn't bad.
that is all
IBBY

 

[dsapper]

This is the mod. The crossbar that triangulates it was cut out because it goes right where the PTE slic goes. It was moved down just behind it. This is the picture before it was powder coated.

 

[1KWIKSIX]

Thanks for posting the pictures!

Got it now.

 

[jlat]

hello; It looks like Dsapper got rid of those smallish bolts that GM used bolting to that large cross over pc. What sucks is that pc. is boxed in and you can't get a nut on the other end of the bolt to be able to grank on it. The brace does come with a set of self tapping OS bolts but it's not enough. That's on my list to do. Either cut an access area to get a bolt in there or weld one but who knows there's a few ways to do it. But be carful of those bolts when installing as they will strip. Also the thickness of the frame material is not that great so the meat isn't there.
In my case the area of the relocated cross pc. (shown) looks to be close to the same as mine but the IC (shown) is way away from mine. It's true that every car will be a little different.
IBBY

 

[dsapper]

It was drilled out to use a much larger bolt on mine

 

[3.8L V-8 eater]

Where do you get the self tappers...

 

[dsapper]

Did not use self tappers. I cant remember what they are called but they are threaded sleeves that when you tighten them they crush against the back side, very strong.

 

[jlat]

hello; The self tappers came with the brace and there not much bigger than stock. Lets here about the zerk nuts. Maybe that's another thing I knew nothing about.
IBBY

 

[3.8L V-8 eater]

Did not use self tappers. I cant remember what they are called but they are threaded sleeves that when you tighten them they crush against the back side, very strong.

If you can come up with what these are called please post up!! Got a set of Kirban braces ready to install once I get the hardware....

 

[dsapper]

I cant remember. We drilled out the holes to 1/2" or so, you slip in the sleeves and when you tighten them they crush behind it and make it permanent. Hopefully someone can chime in on them

 

[turbo nasty]

Nutserts

 

[jlat]

hello; I've never heard of a nutsert. I've heard of riv nuts and clinch nuts and with them you need a installation tool. If a nutsert does not need a tool I want it.
Dsapper was a tool used when you did the install?
IBBY

 

[turbo nasty]

Yeah they have a tool and they are really called nutserts. You can get away with a bolt a washer and a nut. Just gott keep it flAt against the surface so the back can mushroom out when installing. Actually just repaired my buds v8 ranger fiberglass hood hinge bolt area with one and above method and it worked great

 

[dsapper]

Nutzerts, that is the name. Not sure if a tool was used

 

[hemi8]

I used these style inserts, of coarse they were bigger ones for the frame brace but you get the idea, drill a hole, run a tap, screw the insert in with a screw driver........it will not come out. I've used these for problem fixers for aluminum cyl. head thread repairs and the pic is when I installed them on my precision SLIC for the schroud,

eliminating the half-assery.
Mike