scanmaster 7.0 knock?

[billygeg]

Drove the car for the first time today around the block. I checked the knock and at one point it read 7.0!!! I believe the highest the knock is supposed to be is 3.0...Am I right? maybe I am I reading this thing wrong or do I have a problem here? I pressed the right button once before take off, and I read the right side of the screen next to the milivolts.

Thanks!

 

[youngstr]

Wow, 7.0 is pretty much any idea what the O2 number was? its directly to the left of the knock retard number.

do you have a fuel pressure guage hooked up to the fuel rail?
do you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator?
do you have an adjustable wastegate rod?

if have an adj waste gate rod spin it counter clock wise to make the rod longer, on mine 1 revolution usually gets me 1 pound of boost, you want to lower your boost so you don't break that motor. 2nd theres a tuning sticky somewhere that you can use or ask a mod for the link, after you take down the boost , on the next run watch the o2 number you want to see at least .750 mv at wide open throttle, if you don't see that moments after flooring it then get your foot out of it and increase your fuel.

you should post a full set of scanmaster numbers with the car warmed up to operating temp at idle in park , if those numbers aren't in the ball park then you should fix those problems before trying to tune the car to run wot. its a process, I've been at mine for 2 days chasing a electrical/computer problem and trying to tune it for no knock. good luck.

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

Drove the car for the first time today around the block. I checked the knock and at one point it read 7.0!!! I believe the highest the knock is supposed to be is 3.0...Am I right? maybe I am I reading this thing wrong or do I have a problem here? I pressed the right button once before take off, and I read the right side of the screen next to the milivolts.

Thanks!

When the Scanmaster sees TPS voltage higher than 3.0 volts the unit goes into record mode. The highest knock and lowest 02 volts are stored along with the mph when this occurs. These are stored until the car is turned off. If you saw 7.0 degrees knock as a stored value it is a red flag. This means that the knock sensor went off and the ECM retarded timing. Retest and repost. Brad

 

[billygeg]

Hey Guys
The car basically has all new parts, Plugs gapped at .032, wires, alt, fuel filter, fuel pump, battery, and cone air filter. The only mods I did were these...They are in order on how I did them. I did them purposely this way so that, If the car didnt run right after a installation I would know what the problem was...

1.87 electric fan
2.87 ign mod and coil with caspers hotwire kit
3. 87 ecm/maf with turbo tweak 5.6
4.scanamaster
The car seemed to be running fine at idle with no codes after the mods were done...I took it around the block a few times and got the number I posted. The car is not registered so I can only take it around the block a few times unless I want to get arrested! I let the car warm up at idle just before this post and these are the numbers I got from the scanmaster..

02 175-183 0.0 retard
AF 07
LB 39-41
bat 13.1
Int 129
bl 128-140
mph 00
clt 162
ats 71
rpm 1150-1275
TPS .42
IAC 108
cc 74
nal 00


The idle has always seemed alittle high but after driving it earlier the car seemed to have a fluctuating idle so I would assume thats why some of the numbers from the scanmaster vary..

Thanks for the help guys!

 

[billygeg]

I forgot to mention that I do not have a adjustable fuel regulator, I do have a fuel pressure guage on the rail that reads about 30 pounds most of the time. I made my wategate adjustable but only moved it about a 16th of a inch...

 

[rmar]

Read the instructions on the TT chip?It is designed to work with a base fuel pressure

FP should be 43 lbs line off. To start tuning. So start there.

 

[youngstr]

do you have an after market boost gauge? you know analog..... not the one on the dash, if so how much boost was it showing when you had it wide open? and x2 on the chip instructions.

 

[billygeg]

Read the instructions on the TT chip?It is designrd to work with a base fuel pressure

I'm pretty sure thats what I have with 30 pounds fuel pressure, No?

 

[rmar]

No, 43 lbs line off.........

 

[billygeg]

do you have an after market boost gauge? you know analog..... not the one on the dash, if so how much boost was it showing when you had it wide open? and x2 on the chip instructions.

No Boost guage at all! I have that lowsy digital dash that only has a boost light and that doesnt even work! lol!!

In time I am going to go with the dakota digital dash...They are real nice! Pockets are a bit shallow at this point...I spent so much so fast that I need to save a few more bucks... Thats if the wife doesnt kill me first!

 

[billygeg]

No, 43 lbs line off.........

What do you mean by line off? I'm new to these cars so please forgive the questions...The fuel guage reads about 30 pounds...The fuel pump is brand new as well as the filter. If I knew then what I know now I would have bought a better pump and saved some work but you live and learn.

 

[rmar]

You need a adjustable fuel regulator. Some one has a cheap one to get rid of I am sure. But it is a start.

 

[youngstr]

Well then my 2 cents would be stay out of boost, keep your foot out of it until you have some kind of boost gauge, head gaskets are a pain in the butt and a rod sticking out the side is even worse, and cracked pistions....well we won't even go there.....don't try to tune that car until you have the right gauges to monitor whats going on, you'll just trash that motor, but by the way the scanmaster was a good step, I'd recommend an adjustable fuel pressure regulator I got one and it made a world of difference when it came to tuning time.

 

[O SO LO]

What do you mean by line off? I'm new to these cars so please forgive the questions...The fuel guage reads about 30 pounds...The fuel pump is brand new as well as the filter. If I knew then what I know now I would have bought a better pump and saved some work but you live and learn.

When you have the adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator- you take the vacuum line off of the regulator and adjust the regulator till the gauge reads 43 psi (or whatever the pressure stated in the TT chip directions says) then you put the vacuum line back on the regulator...

 

[Jerryl]

. . . I checked the knock and at one point it read 7.0!!! I believe the highest the knock is supposed to be is 3.0...Am I right? . . . . .

KR goal is "0".
The important question is; Is the KR real or false?

 

[billygeg]

I seen some adjustable FPR's on here and ebay that look exactly like the stock units. They are even the same number. I have 3 of them here but I am not sure if they are adjustable. Where is the allen key adjustment supposed to be? Now if the motor is basically stock and all I did was change the ecm with the turbo tweak chip and scanmaster why would I be at risk to have the knock go so high? I did adjust the wastegate but not much at all...Could the wastegate actuator be bad? If so what would be the signs? Would I be able to see it move at all to know its working?

 

[Boost231]

I would get the adjustable fuel pressure regulator that's one www.gbodyparts.com , the adjustment for the regulators is on top. As far as you knock any knock more then .3 is to much. Even .3 at 30psi is to much imop. I would back you acuator down and lower the boost till your knock goes away. When you get the fuel pressure regulator on and get it set to the correct psi then you can probley bring the boost back up some. Your adjustable acuator is fine. Remember you want no knock. But like posted above you need to get a good boost gauge and then we need to find out if its real knock or not.

Edit. Trying to use my phone

By changing the ecm and the chip you only helped the car. With knock being as high as yours is you can easly crack pistons, blow head gaskets, burn heads, burn piston, hurt bearings, and the list goes on. Turn the boost down

 

[billygeg]

So in other words the fp can effect the knock because the car isnt getting enough gas? Is that correct? maybe? You tell me if I'm right or wrong...Also, at the point that I hit the gas I hear like knocking noises that then go away..What can this be caused by? I will definitely get the regulator and the boost guage when I have some extra cash. I dont drive the car regularly so thats not a problem. I dont even drive the car more then around the block a few times, Its not registered. I dont plan on registering it till its fully restored. Also, What would be the reason for the high idle? car idle around 1100...TPS I believe is fine and adjusted to .042

Thanx!

 

[Boost231]

So in other words the fp can effect the knock because the car isnt getting enough gas? That is correct Is that correct? yes maybe? You tell me if I'm right or wrong...Also, at the point that I hit the gas I hear like knocking noises that then go away..What can this be caused by? that is calling audioable knock which is very bad. thats your pistons/ motor taking a pounding I will definitely get the regulator and the boost guage when I have some extra cash. I dont drive the car regularly so thats not a problem. I dont even drive the car more then around the block a few times, Its not registered. I dont plan on registering it till its fully restored. Also, What would be the reason for the high idle? what the IAC at hot idle? i like mine around 25. here is a link to setting the IAC IAC Reset Procedure try that. you will have to adjust the tps after you do this. car idle around 1100...TPS I believe is fine and adjusted to .042

Thanx!

hope that helps. let me know if you have more questions

 

[billygeg]

hope that helps. let me know if you have more questions

I appreciate all the help.. I just have one more question. The adjustment of the IAC says to verify closed loop with a scan tool. What does this mean? What kind of scan tool?
Thanks again!
Bill