scanmaster 7.0 knock?

[Pronto]

You need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. TT chips use 43lbs of fp at idle with the vac line off. You need a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail to set that. 30 lbs of fuel pressure with boost is a recipe for disaster, especially with no accurate boost gauge! Your IAC numbers are off as well. Here's a quick reference for the settings. Quick Reference Page For the '86/'87 Turbo Regals and '89 Turbo T/A When you adjust the IAC is will most likely change the TPS as well. You have to go back and forth to get them in sync. There is instructions for adjusting both on the .org site. That might fix your idling issue. Check all around for vacuum leaks too. Do yourself a favor and disconnect the wastegate actuator until you get the afr so you don't go boom.

 

[Boost231]

Pronto little late atleast he can see we are telling him the correct info and not blowing smoke up his

 

[O SO LO]

I appreciate all the help.. I just have one more question. The adjustment of the IAC says to verify closed loop with a scan tool. What does this mean? What kind of scan tool?
Thanks again!
Bill

Bill- when your car is up to temp- say 160 deg. the decimal point on your scanmaster will quit blinking- that means the car is running on the ECM and not in a bypass mode while the car is warming up...SO when the ldecimal point stays solid... it is in closed loop!

 

[billygeg]

Thanks Mark
Now I get closed loop! I was like WTf does that mean? lol....Heres a ? for all you guys out there...Not to be a PITA but the car is basically stock aside for the electric fan, 87 coil pack with caspers hotwire kit, 87 ign mod, 87 ecm, turbo tweak 5.6 chip, and scanmaster 2.1...If its this close to stock why do I have to make all these additional upgrades? ie..fpr etc...Didnt these cars run well on the stock parts without blowing up? I really didnt turn the boost up much at all as far as I know..I had to pull the rod out about 1/8 inch to get it to connect with the little tit on the waste gate. Thats not too much is it? Like I said, I dont want to be a PITA but I dont get it? Is it that every time you make any small sort of change everything else has to be adjusted to keep it all in sync?
Thats the only thing that would make sense to me at this point..Never really got this deep!

 

[Boost231]

Thanks Mark
Now I get closed loop! I was like WTf does that mean? lol....Heres a ? for all you guys out there...Not to be a PITA but the car is basically stock aside for the electric fan, 87 coil pack with caspers hotwire kit, 87 ign mod, 87 ecm, turbo tweak 5.6 chip, and scanmaster 2.1...If its this close to stock why do I have to make all these additional upgrades?the reason IMOP is because these cars are getting older and milage is taking a toll on them. also i think one of the main reasons is the quality of gas has gone way down since 1984. ie..fpr etc...Didnt these cars run well on the stock parts without blowing up? these cars do run well stock. problem is gas quality sucks and hot weather has a major impact on these cars I really didnt turn the boost up much at all as far as I know..I had to pull the rod out about 1/8 inch to get it to connect with the little tit on the waste gate. Thats not too much is it? that could be to much and from your readings on the knock sensor i would say it is. from what i remember on mine anything more then the rod just being able to sit on the accuator puck was alot. you need to find out what your boost really is.Like I said, I dont want to be a PITA but I dont get it? theres alot of things people dont get about these cars but we will learn and press on Is it that every time you make any small sort of change everything else has to be adjusted to keep it all in sync? i would say no. but then again thats why you have a scanmaster so you can keep and eye to make sure nothing gets out of wack
Thats the only thing that would make sense to me at this point..Never really got this deep!

hope that helps some

 

[billygeg]

Thanks a million boost! Just one more ? and I will be out of everyones hair! In regards ro that audible knock. It doesnt necessarily mean Ive already screwed up the motor does it?

 

[87NAT]

Thanks a million boost! Just one more ? and I will be out of everyones hair! In regards ro that audible knock. It doesnt necessarily mean Ive already screwed up the motor does it?

Your stock engine will tolerate knock alot better than a 500-600 HP engine at high boost...that being said you dont want any knock...period. I think your okay.

Why do you have to do these tuning mods with an almost stock engine? Well because its there. Back in the day when I had my first TR (1992) we just pulled the spark plugs and looked at them.:redface: The scan tools were pretty expensive and the knowledge on these cars was hard to come by. No internet, it was all trial and error.

These cars even stock need to be monitored. Thats why you need a scanmaster, aftermarket boost guage, adjustable FP regulator, etc...

Use this board to learn all you can. Every conceivable problem has been covered. Read, read, read......

 

[billygeg]

Your stock engine will tolerate knock alot better than a 500-600 HP engine at high boost...that being said you dont want any knock...period. I think your okay.

Why do you have to do these tuning mods with an almost stock engine? Well because its there. Back in the day when I had my first TR (1992) we just pulled the spark plugs and looked at them.:redface: The scan tools were pretty expensive and the knowledge on these cars was hard to come by. No internet, it was all trial and error.

These cars even stock need to be monitored. Thats why you need a scanmaster, aftermarket boost guage, adjustable FP regulator, etc...

Use this board to learn all you can. Every conceivable problem has been covered. Read, read, read......

Not that I dont want to buy the parts I need for the car. I dont mind that, I just need to do it little by little being i'm working on a fixed budget. I want the car to run the best it can and as fast as it can. I guess I'm asking more for my own knowledge then anything else. Why this? Why that? When I get the answers I know more about the car and what needs to be done. I'm still a newbe and know nowhere near what you old timers too the board know but, Ive only had the car for about 4 months and Ive learned a ton thanks to you guys! Like the saying goes..."The smartest kid in class asks questions"

 

[87NAT]

Ask away. There are many who will help you.

But what you have to remember is that you bought a turbo Regal...not a small block chevrolet. These are different animals. The money that you put out to get these essential mods is chump change to the time, headache and money if you blow a headgasket or send a rod thru the side of the block.

 

[Pronto]

I would also add a hot wire kit. The stock fuel pump is barely OK for a stocker but the wiring is weak. You need more power for the pump to make more pressure at boost and the wiring can't keep enough volts to the pump. Not good. If you go for more hp (which is easy to do) go for a new fuel pump that can keep up with demand. You need the fuel pressure regulator since you need to change the idle pressure with a TT chip. If the pressure in the rail is too low (like your 30lbs) you'll be getting nasty knock with any boost and probably with just some load. You need a real boost gauge so you will have a real grasp on what you're really running for boost. On a stocker a few extra pounds of boost will make more demands on every system. You need to make sure even on a bone stocker that you have a strong spark, correct fueling and cooling. Again, even if you don't add boost you need those things. Turbocharging is like magic for adding power but if one thing goes wrong you can trash the engine in a second. That's why anyone with experience will tell you pretty much the same. It will save you time, money and frustration. There's plenty of novices that refuse to listen and in short order are looking for engine builders or selling the car. I know we sound like cranky old men but all we are trying to do is stop you from being one of those guys.:wink:

 

[billygeg]

Got my Guages today!

I got my guages today. I bought them off a guy from here. I need some direction on how to connect them.

The first one is a oil PSI Pro-comp auto meter
It has 3 wires. Two I know are the power (red/black) which jump to the water temp guage. Do they connect the the hedlights for night vision? The 3rd wire is a longer green wire that I need to know where to connect in the engine compartment.

The second guage is a Faze 280 degree max temp guage, This guage has 5 wires that come off it. two are black and red that are defintely power. Two of the whites are power as well that are connected to the two wires that I mentioned that jump to the oil guage. I just need to know where to connect the last wire in the engine compartment.

Last is a Faze 30 lb max Boost guage. This guage has a vacuum line attached to it along with 2 power wires. I know where the power wires go but need to know where to connect the vac line.

There is also a little led right next to the boost guage with red and black wires attached to it. I assume it may be some sort of a visual alarm maybe? If so where do these two wires wires attach too?


Thanks guys!

 

[Pronto]

The little red LED is from an Alkycontrol kit. Not much use unless you add alky.

 

[billygeg]

Well maybe I will do that in the future but for now I guess I can just let it be...Any idea where the rest of the leads go?