SMC Progressive with LS1 MAF/Translator (A Must Know Detail)

[TurboBuRick]

Any one running SMC progressive with LS1 and translator?

There is a little problem with the alcohol controler messing with the Translator when it starts to spray. My car would stumble when alc. would start. No matter where I set it, the same thing.

I finally got some good advice from Erick at turbotweek.com
The fix for the problem was simple. Install a relay from alternator to the translator.

Problem solved. Smooth as glass. Thanks Erick.

 

[Razor]

Hot wire the translator.

I make a relay module that has a male/female plug and an inline fuse for this purpose..

Guess who figured the solution to this problem :wink:

 

[TurboBuRick]

Hot wire the translator.

I make a relay module that has a male/female plug and an inline fuse for this purpose..

Guess who figured the solution to this problem :wink:

The only thing I forgot was the inline fuse. I will fix that.

You the man!

 

[turbobuickman]

I have an smc kit, 3" maf and translator (not translator +)and have been hunting down the cause of a mean pop (intake backfire/stumble) when I punch it from a stop. Could this be the cause? Please explain how the alky interferes with the translator in more detail.

Forgot to mention my smc is not progressive. Does this even apply to me?

 

[TurboBuRick]

I have an smc kit, 3" maf and translator (not translator +)and have been hunting down the cause of a mean pop (intake backfire/stumble) when I punch it from a stop. Could this be the cause? Please explain how the alky interferes with the translator in more detail.

Forgot to mention my smc is not progressive. Does this even apply to me?

I think its worth a shot.

When alcohol pump starts running the MAF signal goes haywire. Some type of interfeirence is going on.

I used the original MAF power wire to pull in the relay. (Pink Wire)

Then came off the alt. with a wire to the normaly open side of the contacts,
I came off the other side of the contacts to the translator.
That was it.

 

[Razor]

Has to do with power source and pulse width modulation.

The translator gets its power from the fuse box. Your SMC is hooked up to your fuse box for power. When the SMC kit activates, it generates a signal to drive the pump..this signal also will go through its power wires. And make its way into the fuse box. The Translator than gets hit with this "noise" on its power wires.. creating the issue.

So moving the power source for the alky or translator solves the issue.. in this case, getting power from behind the alternator via an ignition switched relay.

It may or may not be your problem.. easy test is to put a stock MAF on the car and see if the issue goes away, if it does.. you have your answer.

 

[PhilM]

Being somewhat of an audio nut, I have never liked the idea of ppl putting highpower lines anywhere where interference could enter the audio stream, especially more HF stuff. I suppose it is worse if a sensor goes funkaay too

Power the pumps from the battery with their own fuse, switch the PWM at over 20kHz with a coded startup spike for init pulse(s), and run the ground to the FET in twisted pair with the power line. The currents have to be opposing for cancellation. I found that sheilding the line was not as effective as simply minimizing loop area. Supply stiffening in the unit is also important, that must be accounted for depending on the seen wire impedance/ind (~length/ga).

We have mounted several boxes directly ontop of radios and have never had any noise. No sensor problems either... Hopefully, someone will find something wrong with my method... improvements are always fun

 

[turbobuickman]

So Rick, youre sayin to just cut the pink wire between the factory harness and translator (as opposed to the one between the translator and sensor), use the end from the factory harness as the signal wire, add a new fused power straight from the alt., ground the relay, and connect the pink wire that goes to the translator to the power output on the relay? (See makeshift schematic attatched) Should the new power source be fused before the relay? Sorry if these are dumb questions but I want to make sure I know what I'm doin before I start cuttin wires.

 

[turbobuickman]

Also, should a standard 30 amp single pole/single throw relay work? Any suggestions for fuses?

 

[TurboBuRick]

So Rick, youre sayin to just cut the pink wire between the factory harness and translator (as opposed to the one between the translator and sensor), use the end from the factory harness as the signal wire, add a new fused power straight from the alt., ground the relay, and connect the pink wire that goes to the translator to the power output on the relay? (See makeshift schematic attatched) Should the new power source be fused before the relay? Sorry if these are dumb questions but I want to make sure I know what I'm doin before I start cuttin wires.

Thats looks right Kyle. You want to use the old power wire to pull in the relay.
Then the wire from the alt. will be the new power source for the translator.
So the pink wire pulls in the relay closing the contacts and conecting power from the alternator to the translator.
Are you getting surging from alk?
Also, are you getting stumble when you lift off throttle? CH CH CH
These LS1s have some issues. But I've worked through them and want others to know. I can't be the only guy that had these problems.
Post back soon and let me know.

Rick

 

[TurboBuRick]

Also, should a standard 30 amp single pole/single throw relay work? Any suggestions for fuses?

I think 30 amp may be a little over kill but it will do the job. I still need to fuse mine. Mabye Razor can help us with that answer. I think fuse before the relay would be fine also.
Thinking about it, you may want to do this to the smc instead of the translator. It would have the same effect without cutting your wires.
I realized this to late.
Just a thought.

 

[Razor]

I've been using a 15 amp fuse. Even tho that translator will never draw that kind of current.

Like my post said, I make a plug-n-play harness that uses a bosch relay and features both a male and female plug so it requires no cutting. The relay isnt the issue, cutting the wires.. thats a personal choice.

hth

 

[turbobuickman]

Razor, how much for one of your plug and play units? I couldnt find them on your site.

Rick, I dont have any problem when letting off. It only happens when I really punch it (over 3/4 throttle) from low speeds. But if I ease into it, the alky doesnt seem to disrupt anything and it pulls hard all the way up.

 

[Razor]

Harness is 30.00 plus shipping. Covers the cost of parts, supplies, and labor.. I tried having them mass produced.. no takers.

I dont know if this will fix your issues, as there are any reasons sometimes that can make a car run bad. And I dont know the ins and outs of the SMC kit.. so I try and stay away from those tuning issues.

My acid test, is part throttle the car until it hits the turnon point for the alky.. it should be smooth, if it isnt.. this would be suspect. Standing on the gas pedal issues.. thats a whole other deal..

HTH

 

[turbobuickman]

Thanks razor. I was planning on conducting just such a test when I got around to driving the car. In the meantime I just think its definitely worth looking into, especially since I'm running out of ideas. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[KENAN_JAMES]

Gp

Good post, I'm having the same problems.

 

[Way2QWK]

I have a problem with my readings from the Turbolink going crazy as soon as my PAC alky kit turns on. I am running the stock MAF. Is this due to the same issue above with the translater???

 

[TurboBuRick]

I have a problem with my readings from the Turbolink going crazy as soon as my PAC alky kit turns on. I am running the stock MAF. Is this due to the same issue above with the translater???

Its worth a shot. Try to relay the alky or just run a power wire from bat. or alt. and see if it works first. Take the load off the fuse box. If it works, get a relay.

Rick

 

[Razor]

I have a problem with my readings from the Turbolink going crazy as soon as my PAC alky kit turns on. I am running the stock MAF. Is this due to the same issue above with the translater???

Your T-link deal is due to the computer cable picking up the interference. The way to fix that is similar, run a wire 20A fused 12 guage from back of alternator into car, and then mount the relay under the dash. Now use the IGN to switch the relay on.

Terminals on relay,
85 Ignition
86 ground
30 Fuse from Alt
87 PAC power Red wire.

HTH

 

[KENAN_JAMES]

??

Tried this mod. and now I'am getting a trouble code 34 low MAF what did I do wrong? Car seem to be fine have yet to take it on the street. Wanted to get the light off first.