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TurboDave

RIP DAVE
Staff member
TurboBuick.Com Supporter!
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May 24, 2001
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Here's a picture prior to torqueing the cam sprocket bolts. Same bolts that came off this engine.


100_0902.JPG




100_0906.JPG



After torqueing, or should I say attempting to. 31 ft/lbs took one of them off like it was mad of butter!!:mad:

Now waiting for ARP's to come in the mail.

100_0908.JPG


Better picture. 2 deg. adv.

100_0909.JPG



BTW, for those that are curious, it's a Rollmaster setup.
 
Weird. That's not that much torque. Try to feel lucky that the bolt failed now instead of during run in.

Good luck with the rest of the build.
~JM~
 
Been there before Dave. Look at the break in the bolt and you should see where it was stressed before and partially cracked. The new section will be white looking and the original break will be dark.
 
Verify your torque wrench. I had one fail and do what your seeing.

Just had it calibrated. It had just torqued the other bolt just fine, and I was no where near the force needed for that one. I'm just glad it was so easy to unscrew what was left of the bolt.
 
Mine failed tightening lug nuts. I did the front wheel everything was fine went to the rear first nut I stretched the stud...
It was weird it seemed to work fine at lower settings but at 100 ftlb it would pull a stud into before clicking.
Failed between use on bolt 5 and bolt 6 basically. Sucked. Moral is don't blindly trust the wrench if it doesn't feel right stop.
 
100 ft/lb !!! :eek: Tell me you're talking about a 3/4 truck or larger!! 100 is WAY too much torque for automotive lug nuts!!! Causes rotors to warp, etc.
 
The 100 ft/lb is the proper torque spec for vehicles that use the 12mm metric studs. Such as the 3rd gen Camaros & Firebirds.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
Yep 12 mm x 1.5 Ford Fusion.
Spec 100 ftlbs in owners manual.
Of course you know this is Dry non lubricated specifications.
 
Yep. Pretty much any modern car with alloy wheels specs around 100 ft. lbs dry torque. steel wheels are about 80....

Was that bolt that failed an OE bolt or did it come with the timing set?
 
Dave,

The torque value on the camshaft bolts always seemed high to me. 31 ft lbs on a bolt that dia. is too high even if it is a Grade 8. Go with a little less torque (around 25 ft lbs) and use some red loctite for good measure.

Neal
 
Make sure when you get the ARPs to check the length ... the ones I got (listed for our engines) where longer than stock and would rub in the back so had to use washers on both of them ....
 
Yep. Pretty much any modern car with alloy wheels specs around 100 ft. lbs dry torque. steel wheels are about 80....

Was that bolt that failed an OE bolt or did it come with the timing set?


Those were the original bolts out of that engine.
Dave,

The torque value on the camshaft bolts always seemed high to me. 31 ft lbs on a bolt that dia. is too high even if it is a Grade 8. Go with a little less torque (around 25 ft lbs) and use some red loctite for good measure.

Neal

Will do!

Make sure when you get the ARPs to check the length ... the ones I got (listed for our engines) where longer than stock and would rub in the back so had to use washers on both of them ....

I'll use the washers from the originals.
 
100_0910.JPG
Got the bolts today! Sure enough, they stuck through the back side of the cam sprocket by what appeared to the naked eye to be about .060 or so

So I found a couple of perfectly sized washers in my bin of washers that were .050 thick. Perfect size! the bolts no longer stick through the back.
Lock tight'd them and torqued to 25.

ARP needs to resize those bolts from .560 down to .500 to be perfect.
 
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