Soft Peddle and Brake light

[meanchicken]

Howdy,

PowerMaster system.
Having an issue with a soft peddle the my brake light coming on when applying the brakes. Also noticing that my fluid in the reservoir gets murky and dark pretty fast....within days....of emptying it and refilling it with fresh fluid.

A few times now, when I noticed the light and soft peddle, I would change out to fresh fluid. Initially the issue would be solved, but within a couple days it would start coming back.

I know the accumulator ball and pressure switch are good.

Bad Master Cylinder or bad pump?

 

[chopped39]

Sounds like a bad master.When the motor goes out it should get hard or as soon and the ball is empty .Then its a rock hard pedal. I would flush the whole system and go from there.Make sure ther are no leaks. If you have factory lines the copper from the lines will turn it dark pretty fast . Thats why upgrading to stainless lines is a big plus on these cars. there will still be some contaminants such as moisture and rubber parts throughout the system but the lines are the killer contaminant. good luck

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Probably just plain worn out, from all the "braking for ZR1's", that you have been doing!

 

[TurboBuRick]

Fluid loss = soft pedal. Could be a wheel cylinder or a broke line. Check the hoses too. Look for the wet spot.

 

[meanchicken]

Fluid loss = soft pedal. Could be a wheel cylinder or a broke line. Check the hoses too. Look for the wet spot.

No leaks to speak of. Rear wheel cylinders are relatively new and so are the front calipers.
Bottom of the pump is slightly wet with fluid...but no signs of leaks above it, so could be an internal leak.

So how hard is it to convert to Hydroboost or Vacuum anyway....

 

[TexasT]

http://turbobuick.com/forums/threads/hydroboost-or-vacuum.369756/page-2#post-3032528

I love my hydroboost conversion but I'm told vacuum is good too. Link above with pix of mine. Plenty of advice if you need it.

 

[meanchicken]

I was thinking Hydroboost...but I'll likely go vacuum. Much simpler install and with all the TQ this stroker makes, I don't need to hold a bunch of break boost at the line...

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Take the PM...and throw it in the nearest lake or open body of water. I swapped out to vacuum years ago. I went with S-10 wheel cylinders...all long pads...drilled rotors...SS braided brake lines...and the car stops on a dime...and I can hold over 3000 rpm on the line with ease.

 

[meanchicken]

Take the PM...and throw it in the nearest lake or open body of water. I swapped out to vacuum years ago. I went with S-10 wheel cylinders...all long pads...drilled rotors...SS braided brake lines...and the car stops on a dime...and I can hold over 3000 rpm on the line with ease.

LOL
Well...I'll probably keep the PM after I replace it, cuz it has trade in value with many of our vendors.
But yeah....I'll prolly do vacuum brakes.
I already have the S10 cylinders and the large pad swap in back, and I have SSBC Force 10's up front.
I also have ample vacuum with this motor Lou built. About 20Hg at idle...and it'll do 10's.....try that with a big block!

 

[zeus87gn]

You most likely have an internal leak
Look at the rear fluid return port on the ps of the bowl once the system pumps up
If fluid is coming back into the bowl your leak is internal, but to the high pressure side
Soft pedal is a typical sign of a failing master cylinder - or the standard side of the P/M

 

[meanchicken]

You most likely have an internal leak
Look at the rear fluid return port on the ps of the bowl once the system pumps up
If fluid is coming back into the bowl your leak is internal, but to the high pressure side
Soft pedal is a typical sign of a failing master cylinder - or the standard side of the P/M

Thanks!

 

[BILL HAINES]

FUNNY, I THOUGHT THE GAS PEDAL WOULD WEAR OUT BEFORE THE BRAKES(PM UNIT) LOOKING AT ALL THE KILLS,THAT PEDAL IS USUALLY ON THE FLOOR(PROBABLY A DENT IN THE FLOOR UNDER THE PEDAL)JUST MY THOUGHTS..