Spun Bearing

[TurboBuRick]

The long wire piece is the end of a dipstick, no? The other debris I'm not sure but the bearing failure is more than likely the result of the pick up being clogged. The system was starved for oil.

 

[kman71]

How or can you tell if the heads have been ported?

How do you tell if there are stock TTA heads on the car? I don' think the heads on TTA were stock anymore. The previous owner said that was one of the upgrades, bigger heads. Is there a serial number or something on them?

I think they are P/N 25536702, ported heads for a TTA. Does this make it better for the higher compression of the pistons?

Here are a couple of pics of the heads. These are the only numbers I found on them.

 

[Sweet6]

I think the 702 casting number is for original tta heads.

Yes that is correct

 

[HouseofSpeed]

Kman...determining if the heads have been modified comes in several ways....port work, valve work and obvious valve train mods. Port work can be determined by measurement and comparison against stock dimensions....same thing with valves and seat work....mods should be obvious, spring pocket enlargement..rocker pads machined down...guide plates....one piece pushrods....etc.

 

[kman71]

Ok, after a interesting day of working on the motor, we ended the day with putting one head on and attempting to determine the proper pushrod length. With help from an experienced mechanic, we used the pushrod length checker from comp cams and checked the proper geometry by rotating the cam few times and checking the wear pattern on the valve as comp cams suggest and the geometry appears to be off due to the combination of the beehive springs and roller lifters. It was rubbing more toward the front of the valve instead of the middle. He suggested that comp cams probably makes a shim kit to install under the retainers to give them a little lift in order to get the proper geometry and wear more centered on the valve, this of course would change the pushrod length again. He said if you don't do this, the valve will wear out quickly due to the improper geometry. The length we were at was 7.5" for the length checker+ 9 turns at .05" each turn (.45"), so 7.95" plus he said to add .05" for loading which would make the pushrods 8". So still haven't figured it out but getting closer.

Anyone else run into these issues with their roller cam set up and the stock heads?

Again, this is the first time doing this so just looking for some help and advice from others who have done this already.

 

[kman71]

RAYDER is back up and running. Engine back in and what a difference, New block, roller cam from full throttle, refreshed heads, new front cover with hv oil pump from full throttle, double roller chain with TENSIONER REMOVED, new TE44 Turbo, finished the interior and exterior and slapped on some new rubber on the rear to give it that big bad and mean aggressive look, some Mickey Thompson ET Street radials (295/50/16's the biggest I could fit in that wheel well and bolt on). THE ENGINE IS VERY STRONG AND SMOOTH and Sounds Awesome. Check out the video at the end of the pics below.Thanks to all who helped and gave much needed advice.

Still need to get it tuned but having two problems so far. My tuner thinks ordering a new extender chip with the new parameters should cure the problems, but will fine tune it when he puts the chip in. I have really been babying it and only have over 100 miles on it.
1. The turbo is fluttering. You can hear the turbo spool very fast, but when it would try to boost it would just flutter. I have the precision external wastegate with manual boost control valve in the car. It was set to 24#s of boost before the spun bearing and I have not touched it. I can hear the wastegate open when the flutter starts too. I also had a vacuum leak with the HVAC, fixed that and now I can get the boost up to about 4 before it begins to flutter, like rapidly shaking and going from 4 to 0 to 4 etc. I have not tried to power through it. Just doesn't feel right. Can't maintain a steady rise or boost at all. The AC is still not hooked up and I can hear a vacuum leak at the HVAC now when I turn the temp selector from cold to heat. No problem or leak with the selector switch only the temp. If it is all the way cold, no hissing only when you move it to heat. Is this because the AC is not hooked up? I am thinking my boost problem is vac line related. I also read where this is common for people with the TE44 set up to have flutter or surge and some have used the TORNADO in the turbo air inlet to help with the surge. I also have the alki kit from Julio installed and it is still winter and cold here. I have the large front mount intercooler. Could the alki mixed with the cold temps cause the turbo to flutter too?Any suggestions???

2. I think I fixed this too, but the car would just shut down after a large throttle when I let off the throttle or sometimes when downshifting from 3/2 or 2/1 gear. Not always, but has happened. You just see the rpms drop, the car does not even try to rev up. The car is so quiet not too, it is hard to notice. It idles at 1000 rpms and usually when you decel it drops to about 1100 rpms and maintains. I used the scanmaster to set what I could. I set the tps to .42 and my blm is around 120 at warm idle. I have the AEM wideband set up with gen2 maft control. I have the bailey extender g chip and it has a setting called DFCO Delay to help prevent stalling, I have an art carr 2800 stall. I enable the DFCO Delay and it seemed to help, has only stalled once since then. Any ideas what this could be????

Thanks again for all the help and advice.

Enjoy the pics and video.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Looking good!

Whats the iac doing?

 

[kman71]

Just did a cold start, it's 32 degrees here this morning.

Went from cold start to warm idle, here is what the scanmaster read. Steady idle at 950-1000 rpm's.

cold warm
blm 115 116
tps .42 .44
iac 80 24

Just ordered the power logger do get a better idea of what is going on.
My tuner is ordering a new extender chip set on the new parameters and will fine tune it when he installs it.
I am just trying to get a better understanding and control of the system, so I don't have to go through a spun bearing again.
I am not going to race the car, would like to get it set and the boost set so it if more of a reliable street car to take to car shows and cruise nights. Can't wait...

 

[Pronto]

I am not going to race the car, would like to get it set and the boost set so it if more of a reliable street car to take to car shows and cruise nights.

Sure...

 

[kman71]

Ok, maybe a little on the street....lol

 

[TurboBuRick]

Numbers don't look to bad. If blm's are moving at idle you are in closed loop. They tend to idle better in open loop. You can set that in the chip as well.

Who's tuner? Chris?

 

[kman71]

Dennis Butt

I think it is a vacuum leak to the turbo gauge on the dash. Where is the vacuum tube that supplies the dash? The gauge on my pillar works and we know where and how to isolate that one.

 

[kman71]

UPDATE:

Fixed the vacuum leak going to the HVAC temp selector. We unplugged this vac line and the hissing away and we capped it. I am assuming from the diagram that there are two vac lines that go through the front passenger firewall, one for the hvac and the other for cruise control. I am guessing we capped the cruise as it did not work. HVAC works perfect now. See pic of the two lines with the one capped under the red wire in the middle of the pic.

The turbo gauge on the dash is not working at all now. I didn't before we started today. I turned up the boost control controller in the car and the flutter is not as bad. The big turbo gauge on the pillar still works. From my research, the turbo guage in the car is electric and works off map sensor in the upper front passenger wall. I checked the vac line and the connections and tested again and still no boost on the controller. It has a working vac line to it, so I am guessing the map sensor is bad. Could this cause the turbo flutter?


Also, what is this line above the map sensor. It has two white wires that go into a green clip, almost looks like a fusable link and from a pic I saw of someone elses on here, their's is stuck in the black protective wire cover and electric taped in. Does anyone know what this is with the green tip on it?

 

[kman71]

Here is the pic of the clip clip with two white wires going to it...

 

[fatride]

Kman, did you verify how they set the cam sensor?

 

[kman71]

No, I was not there when they did it.... grrrrrr , i hope it is right....is there a way to check???

On the bright side....... the vacuum mystery solved. It just didn't make sense and had to be a vacuum line. Thanks for all the help. I googled the Precision External Wastegate and read the manual. It showed how it should be connected with a manual control valve. It was not connected right and never was since I had it. I don't know how it ran with the old engine. The 2 vacuum lines from the manual control valve inside the car just ran to the wastegate and back, no connection to the turbo at all. So just had to put a T in the inlet to the Wastegate and then connect the two outlets to the wastegate inlet and the turbo outlet. WALLAAAAA..... So much better, runs great.... very strong, put the alky back on and the dash boost gauge works too. Now just need to get it tuned and get the boost set at a safe street setting, and put on the power logger.... Here is a couple of pics of the work and a few more of the engine install and my black treated headers.....

 

[TurboBuRick]

Fixed the vacuum leak going to the HVAC temp selector. We unplugged this vac line and the hissing away and we capped it. I am assuming from the diagram that there are two vac lines that go through the front passenger firewall, one for the hvac and the other for cruise control. I am guessing we capped the cruise as it did not work. HVAC works perfect now. See pic of the two lines with the one capped under the red wire in the middle of the pic.

The 2 plastic lines are both hvac. One goes into the car and feeds vacuum to the controls and the other comes out and signals the heater valve.

The turbo gauge on the dash is not working at all now. I didn't before we started today. I turned up the boost control controller in the car and the flutter is not as bad. The big turbo gauge on the pillar still works. From my research, the turbo guage in the car is electric and works off map sensor in the upper front passenger wall. I checked the vac line and the connections and tested again and still no boost on the controller. It has a working vac line to it, so I am guessing the map sensor is bad. Could this cause the turbo flutter?

Could be a bad map or the module in the dash could be bad. Did you say it WAS working?

Also, what is this line above the map sensor. It has two white wires that go into a green clip, almost looks like a fusable link and from a pic I saw of someone elses on here, their's is stuck in the black protective wire cover and electric taped in. Does anyone know what this is with the green tip on it?

That looks like the fuel pump test lead. It does not hook to anything. It's there for testing purposes.

 

[2QUICK2B6]

what oil filter an oil are you using ? I was suggested to run straight rotella 30 to break it in.

 

[kman71]

Amsoil zrod 10w30 and a Mobil 1 premium filter. Just did first oil change after 150 miles with amsoil zrod 10w30 and amsoil filter. The original oil came out super fresh and clean with no noticeable frags. I'm very pleased with the build now. Got it tuned in, 15 #s of boost right now and no flutter. Good thing I got them big tires..... This car rips it up now....going to be a fun summer.

 

[kman71]

Got the car professionally detailed yesterday... outside, inside, and engine bay.... Dialed in the iac and tps to the right settings. I got the extender g chip reprogrammed and working awesome. Set the DFCO delay to prevent the dieing out. Worked perfect... Set the open loop at idle to smooth out the idle and set the lean cruise option on the highway, haven't tried that out yet, but sure it works. Also set the KnockLight setting to flash the check engine light when excessive knock is detected...haven't seen this one yet either...and hope I never do... but I am sure it is working too. What an awesome chip, and you can program all the setting and more just from the scanmaster.... Awesome.


Also, the headers were ceramic coated .... i love the way they turned out... It was not the best day for pics, but had to take some after having it detailed..... Bring on Spring and Summer....